a6t8vw Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Hello, ive seen some jtr drivers side motor mount installed in two diffrent ways, one the alum spacer is bolted to the block directly or where the setback plate is on the block then spacer to OE chevy mount. First would the location be the same? second is there a disadvantage to either way? Oh and when you lower the eng down to the mouting holes you then bolt it threading into mount from under xmember correct? thx, a6t8vw http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314369 280z type-3 body. sbc very soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240zg Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I just finished swapping the mounts yesterday and can tell you that, based on the book, on the drivers side setback plate to block, then spacer, then chev mount. Couldn't tell you if the location would be the same or whether it makes any difference at all. As far as the chevy mount, you do bolt it from below, I believe that it was a 7/16" bolt, grade 8. To make it easier, I loosely bolted all pieces the pieces together then threaded the bolt through the crossmember - gave me a little more wiggle space. Hope it helps. Bryan Dat240zg BTW, anyone looking for an inexpensive JCI mount kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I just finished swapping the mounts yesterday and can tell you that' date=' based on the book, on the drivers side setback plate to block, then spacer, then chev mount.[/quote']Are you sure Bryan? I did mine spacer to block, then plate, then motor mount. Here's a pic of mine (passenger side, but drivers side is the same order) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240zg Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 You're right...brain freeze..... Man, I tell you what....I'll be glad to get this mount situation sorted out. Word to the wise (or those who want to avoid going completely bald like me), the two tranny mounts (JTR and JCI) may look similar, but they aren't! This has been a good but time consuming lesson. I'm sure that many people prefer the JCI kit for the LSx motors, but for the LT1/T56 swap, the JTR is probably better. I believe that the JCI kit would do great for the LT1/4L60 swap, due to the difference in length of the tranny, but the manual puts it too far forward. I'm getting tired of this. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 The order of the spacer and setback plate don't matter at all. I put mine in with the plates bolted to the block so they would clear my headers. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a6t8vw Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 i had the idea to drill out those threads for some reason, but i think if cut out a small clearance "window" in the back of the plate i could hold onto a nut and washer and make it 10x stronger than threading into the mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 If you do that your mount will be "hard mounted". Won't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Brandon, If the washer used is small enough it should fit inside the hole in the back of the mount but it would limit the amount of movement available. Use a large washer and it would be effectively be solid mounted which would run the risk of breaking the bolt. a6t8vw, I wouldn't drill out those threads. The mount is designed to be bolted in using that insert in the rubber. It gives the mount the ability to flex preventing the bolt from breaking and isolating the car from engine vibration a bit. Many guys on here have used those mounts and I have yet to see anyone report a failure. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a6t8vw Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 after thinking about it, its the same thing.. just drill out the threads to use 7/16-fine thread and your just bolting in on instead of threading it on...but its still rubber mounted edit: and it would ease the install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 I may be misunderstanding, you don't want to drill all the way thru the mount correct? I used a "D" washer to give myself more movement. I had to bring the engine as far forward as it would go and it's still a finger's width to the firewall from the NON-HEI dist. AND I slotted the holes in the frame mounts forward as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 a6t8vw, I suppose you want to drill the threads out and put the bolt in from the top instead of from inside the Datsun mount tower, is this correct? If you make sure to use a washer and bolt head that fit inside the hole in the back of the mount and that won't bind up then it would be the same as threading the bolt into the insert. It might actually be easier to mount it as well, although it really isn't that hard to get everything lined up without the modification. You could even use a longer coarse thread bolt and just run it all the way through the insert instead of drilling out the threads. If you decide to go this route you'll have to drill a pocket out of the spacer or the plate depending on how you have them bolted together. I bolted the plate to the block in order to clear my headers. This puts the motor mount on the spacer and in this configuration there is no way to get a wrench on a bolt head thats on the back side of the motor mount. You might want to mount the plates, spacers and headers to make sure everything will clear before drilling out the threads just in case. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a6t8vw Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 thanks for the input... ill have another go at it this weekend.. the motor is sitting in the car but not bolted down, i might have to slot the xmember tower some more because my dist is damn close, actually i think i broke it when the trans sliped off the jack and dist slamed into the firewall... oh well i was gonna buy a small dia. msd or mallory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 It'd suck if you bent the shaft then tried to turn it over and bad things happened. Probably unlikely though. I can attest for the MSD dist, the car idles solid and never misses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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