mario_82_ZXT Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Well.... my dad is willing to help me get my car painted before school and I've been reading Zero Rust's page and they say it can be used as a base and they offer their own clear for it. Has anybody thought/done this before? Long story short the massive amount of rain has seeped into the car causing electrical problems, my dad is willing to chip in for weather stripping if it is going to get painted. But I don't know how nice I want it yet... if I were to get an awesome paint job I'd be afraid to track it... which was the whole point of this car... Full paint I've been quoted is about $2-3k with body work, ~4 coats color 3 clear. I can paint Zero Rust Myself and it's about $200 in supplies.... Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?? Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 You can use Zero Rust as the Primer/base, but I would use a different clear on it - from the stovebolt forums, David Palmer (Zero Rust) said he like the U Pol single stage clear product. I too am in the need of getting some leaks fixed, but not ready for a total redo on my '83 ZXT. My clear coat is pealing and I have some dents and rust around the windshield and above the drivers' rear bumper. Since I intended to paint the car white, I've decided to just use ZR and a cheap automotive clear..... This will do for a daily driver and allow me to spend more time, money and thought on the '75 TT350 project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 An aerosol can primer for the entire car? Any tips to ensure total coverage/thickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Zero Rust comes in rattle cans, but also Qts and Gals. I bought 1 gal each of Red Oxide, black and white. I have a compressor and a few HVLP guns that I will be using. My first coat will be red oxide, then I'll use white to paint the car. That way I'll be able to see that I get good coverage. The BIG question is - how Sandable is ZR, IE: after the last coat, you have to let it sit for ~30 days, then scuff and shoot clear. I don't know how easily it sands for this step..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LamboZ Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I don't know how easily it sands for this step..... Once you sand Zero Rust you pretty much lose all the protection you get with this product. I would use a Sandable Primer on top of the ZR. Make sure you're body work is where you want it, then ZR, then Sandable Primer, sand to you're liking, then base and then clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Zero Rust is very old technology. It is a phenolic resin product. Phenolics were invented in 1909. It doesn't chemically cure. For that reason, I would not want to put a cured product on top of it, like most all automotive paint products are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 SEARCH!!!! we have two threads on this already. My car is painted in zero rust and has been for over 2 years now. No i did not use their clear as I didn't want it glossy. However about 8 months ago or more I sprayed PPG DBU/DBC clear right on top of it... and it has held up fine, just FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 The BIG question is - how Sandable is ZR' date=' IE: after the last coat, you have to let it sit for ~30 days, then scuff and shoot clear. [/quote'] 30 days?! Where do you find this information? I can't really find any guides to using this product other then as a primer/barrier coat..... They offer their own clear... looks like I need to start talking with Bruce Palmer... Local paint shop that carries it know's of no one that has used it as primer, base and clear.... neither does the local distributor in Tempe.... Nismo280zEd I'll search again, thanks everyone for the responses. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 I think he ment before wash/waxing (or got mixed up with). I think its a day ot 2 before sanding. Could be wrong, never worked with zero rust before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 there is just no reason to use ZR past its intended application and as an overall primer, that is not its intended usage. To each his own, but there are much better products for that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted August 3, 2006 Author Share Posted August 3, 2006 I've heard only good things from this product, but on their website they say it can be used as base, and then coated with their own clear coat that is specially made for it for a glossy finish, but is not required (it dries to a satin finish, but can be cleared with almost any automotive primer for gloss). But there in lies my problem... I know of no one that's done this.... And about the U Pol clear, again... nothing but good things, but I've only found it in a spray can.... This is definately a budget job so I can buy more go fast goodies and I'm in desperate need of tires, not a show stopper! Thanks for the responses, Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 By sanding, I mean sanding down and spraying more over that area. From my understanding, you do NOT want to use Acetone as a thinner, and DO NOT want to use a product over it that uses Acetone. Xylene will be what I will use to thin. ZR recommends scuffing for a good mechanical bond when it has cured, if one wanted to do a high build primer say, then do a seal coat and base/clear. Bruce even mentioned sanding the 'chalk' away before clear coating if the car had been left outdoors for a while. RacerX and I have been cussin' and discussin' this for about 3 years now. I lost my tech job and it took a while to get back on my feet, and then was busy with the new job, or I would have made more progress. Well, I guess I'll get to try my hand at spraying the DD ZXT before I paint the '75 project car, which need floor pans, subchassis connectors and a rear qtr in addition to minor front fender rust out that I think I can fill in with my MIG and grind. In a way, not too bad, because evetually need to yank engine out of ZXT and attend to a bit of battery tray rust out. Then I'll do the whole car.... I have gotten TONS of info from RacerX (thanks!) and also at: http://http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index I just came across the Stovebolt Forum for old Chevy Trucks that has a high regard for ZR also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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