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Car won't rev past 2k? Hot HEI and Coil!


Thumper

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I just installed megasquirt v3.0 into a friends 260z. It won't rev past 1500rpms I am using a HEI 4pin module. It starts perfectly but after 30-45seconds of running it will slowly die. The module and coil are very hot. Is it my dwell settings? Would should I use. I have a 1k resistor between the fidle and tps 5v ref. Besides dwell what else could cause this? Thanks for your time.

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What coil are you using? If it is the stock 260Z coil, it might require a ballast resistor. If you don't use one, the coil will draw too much current, causing both the module and coil to get too hot. The resistance of the primary on those coils is much lower than a newer 280Z or 280ZX coil. Get one of those, or an MSD blaster 2 coil.

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Ok I have got it running better. But still not driveable. I have changed the dwell to 50% and it now goes up to about 3k rpms. No matter what I do it will not rev higher. I have changed the dwell, inverted spark, changed the timing, locked the timing, and changed fuel values but it will not rev past 3k. When I hook up my timing light, timing seems to be right at idle but the higher in the rpms you go the more the timing retards. Then right around 3k rpms and 10 degrees my timing light starts to not show a spark. So it seems like the module is trying to either fire it at the wrong time or just plain ain't working at that rpm. I have wired the coil and module up perfectly. Just as it was decribed in the sticky. I even installed the condensor. I hate letting a car win so if necessary I will buy a msd box which I know for 100% I can hook up right. Any suggestions thanks!?:flamedevi

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There is something wrong, this is not a solution, but just fyi, the hei will always get hot, so once this is all sorted out, you might look at putting arctic silver under it as a heatsink compound http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

 

just to help out with heat dissipation. going with a silver compound is a little verbose, but that is right in line with the theme of this whole site.

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Yes, it does have to have heat compound and some way of cooling, heat sink, fan, etc. The GM HEI distributor provides a good heat sink and the bottom of the rotor acts as a cooling fan. Without the heat sink compound the modules will overheat in the GM distributor, I found out the hard way.

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what makes you sure the problem is the spark? I recall having rev issues when my fuel pump was dying, it simply couldn't keep up with the demand, you got a fuel pressure gauge? also I burnt a few HEI's before I bought a flamethrower HEI and it has far outlasted the delco units

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Well I figured the problem was between my megasquirt and msd box. So it was either my relay board was messing up the signal or my megasquirt was sending a bad signal. So I bypassed the relay box and wired my white wire from my msd directly to my megasquirt fidle wire and presto its fixed. I truly don't know why it fixed it. Only that it did. I have guesses mostly bad put together of the relay board but don't really care why its fixed just that it is. So fyi if you have these symptoms bypass your relay box. :-)

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