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Anyway to tell if it's a stroker??


heavy85

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That ebay seller has a lot of cool z parts for sale...

 

Yeah....I wanted the cylinder head and some @sshole snaked it at the last second before the auction would let me respond. It's been mine for the last two days.

 

No ethics....I think Ebay needs to initiate a respondent program....

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You can check it the way racers are checked after a race to match sure they weren't cheating.

 

Remove the rockers off one cylinder and screw on a compression tester hose with the valve removed. Then attach the hose to clear 2 liter tube with a light piston in the tube. As the engine is rotated, the piston in the tube will rise and fall with the piston in the engine. The volume sweep in the clear tube is the volume of one cylinder.

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Yeah....I wanted the cylinder head and some @sshole snaked it at the last second before the auction would let me respond. It's been mine for the last two days.

 

No ethics....I think Ebay needs to initiate a respondent program....

 

 

?????? But Ebay is an Auction? He just bid more than you didn't He? So you were "OUT BID" how can Ebay have " No ethics" ???

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?????? But Ebay is an Auction? He just bid more than you didn't He? So you were "OUT BID" how can Ebay have " No ethics" ???

 

He didn`t outbid me....he just got the last bid in. He issued a single bid (his first) at the last moment. I doubt he would have outbid me in the end.

 

The exact reason I state, there should be a respondent time....thus, other interested parties can continue to bid based on willingness to pay rather than who can get a bid closest to the buzzer. It works out best for all parties.

 

If he really wanted to be fair about it, he would have made his intentions known far earlier. The fact is, the guy had no sack and wasn`t willing to pay fair auction value for it......

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He didn`t outbid me....he just got the last bid in. He issued a single bid (his first) at the last moment. I doubt he would have outbid me in the end.

 

The exact reason I state' date=' there should be a respondent time....thus, other interested parties can continue to bid based on willingness to pay rather than who can get a bid closest to the buzzer. It works out best for all parties.

 

If he really wanted to be fair about it, he would have made his intentions known far earlier. The fact is, the guy had no sack and wasn`t willing to pay fair auction value for it......[/quote']

 

 

 

Thats like asking the guy your about to fight, to warn you before he throws a punch.... get over it, thats how ebay works.

 

There is no love lost between bidders on ebay. They even have places like www.esnipe.com that helps a person "snipe" the auction at the last second.

 

In the end, the last bidder, with the highest bid wins.....

 

I guess you could have just entered the amount you were willing to pay for that item, all at once, then you prolly wouldn't have lost it.

 

I know how you feel, its happened to me before.... until I joined esnipe... :burnout:

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[quote name=J.

In the end' date=' the last bidder, with the highest bid wins..... [/quote]

 

Thats what i thought, you were OUT-BID so how can you say :-

 

"He didn`t outbid me....he just got the last bid in."

 

If you had as high bid of $1000.00 and he bid $1500 in his one and only bid you still have lost out to him by 1 bid increment??? Thats why its called an AUCTION,

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Off topic about the auction stuff and all but the auction site here in NZ has a feature that allows the auction to auto extend past the end time if a bid comes in - extra 2 minutes - I once watched an auction go an extra 30 minutes as the bids kept coming in -until the guy who wanted the parts more (spending more $$) forced the other guy out, the way they kept bidding you could have purchased new parts for the same as these second hard ones there were listed :)

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Off topic about the auction stuff and all but the auction site here in NZ has a feature that allows the auction to auto extend past the end time if a bid comes in - extra 2 minutes - I once watched an auction go an extra 30 minutes as the bids kept coming in -until the guy who wanted the parts more (spending more $$) forced the other guy out, the way they kept bidding you could have purchased new parts for the same as these second hard ones there were listed :)

 

ah so thats how you tell if you have a stroker crankshaft in your engine!

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ah so thats how you tell if you have a stroker crankshaft in your engine!

 

haha haha....no you pull the sump off - the thread was somewhat hi-jacked before I posted that.

 

So back to the topic - of the other ways listed above, put it on a dyno yada yada yada (re the dyno stuff well here in NZ on a Dyno day the club had a number of years ago about 4 of our local racing zeds (240z/260z all with L28 fitted) put down over 150rwhp and I know 3 were non strokers so the comment about 110rwhp for a non stroker vs 130rwhp for a stoker I just don't by into that one)

 

But the only sure way is to measure the stroke either with one of the fancy methods listed above or remove the sump and look for the V07 (unless the crank as had some serious prep work and this has been ground/polished off, yes I have seen this done) or just measure the stroke then.

 

Ok no more about ebay - auctions and getting beaten at the list minute yada yada.

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