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HybridZ

no more go


nazar

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Well a few months back i was on a freeway on ramp and all of a sudden lost connection to my tires, i had no drivetrain

 

I coasted to a stop, and tried driving off again and all i heard were aweful grinding noises but the car wasnt really moving. Got it towed home

 

If i baby it barely i can pull it in and out of the garage sometimes, sometimes not, but thats about it

 

I jack the rear in the air and put it in gear and i can go through the gears and spin the wheels no problem, but when i gunned the throttle the tires spun up but also seemed like the wheels were moving in and out every time i stabbed the throttle, and it seems like whenever there is enough friction to the tire, it loses connection to the drivetrain

 

Is this my wheel bearings? Stub axles? These are still stock 240z stubbies, i have a 71 240z with an lt1, t56 and q45 rear diff with mosler half shafts and billet adapter

 

I have 280zx stubbies waitinng to go in

 

Also, my 280stub axles didnt come with the big nut on the innside, can i just reuse my 240z nut? Since i cant find those anywhere for sale

 

Also, is there supposed to be a metal cylindrical sleve over each 280z stub axle center? 1 has it 1 doesnt, can i reuse my stock ones if they are supposed to have them?? I just bought 280zx stubies from a junkyard

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I hate to tell you this Nazar, but I don't think the 280 "ZX" stubs are the same size as the 240/280z stubs. I seem to recall the distance between the inner and the outer bearings are different. The good news is that the large rear nut CAN be used. Maybe you can remove your stubs and compare the 2 and give us the info and pix about the 2 stub axles. Maybe someone can chime in to confirm this?

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i really hope its not the clutch, it sounds like its coming from the rear, plus it still turns the wheels when there isnt much friction on the tire, like it being in the air, plus the whole wheel pulling in and out when stepping on the gas on jackstands makes me think its something to do with the stub axles

 

I know the 280z stub axles are stronger, thats why i got them a long time ago, just never put them in

 

I'd be pissed if it was the clutch, it was a used clutchmaster dual friction but i put in a new disk, standard organic both sides

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a smoked clutch. Try putting the rear of the Z up on some car ramps. Then unbolt the driveshaft, and then apply torque to the pinion with a pipe wrench or something. If it "gives" then you have rear diff, problems. If not, the clutch is toast. Good luck and post what you find out.

 

Oh, don't forget to properly chock the front wheels wo you don't run yourself over!

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do you guys think its still the clutch? If it blew up, wouldnt the car not even move?

 

I think im gonna pull the stub axles to see if thats the problem, the wheels moving in and out under throttle makes me speculate the stubs...hopefully. I will find out this weekend I guess

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do you guys think its still the clutch? If it blew up' date=' wouldnt the car not even move?

 

I think im gonna pull the stub axles to see if thats the problem, the wheels moving in and out under throttle makes me speculate the stubs...hopefully. I will find out this weekend I guess[/quote']

 

well if its almost completely worn down, the amount of friction material that is left would turn the wheels when its off the ground. That is because it take less amounts of torque to rotate the wheel when its not on the ground as to when it is. Catch my drift?:mrgreen:

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no way is that disk worn down that far it probably had less then 100 miles on the new disk, if its bad its gotta be torn up or shattered completely, you simply cant wear off htat much material in 100 miles

 

I will put the car on the lift and pull the Ebrake, and try to put it in gear, if the driveshaft still spins then its the clutch, if not, its gotta be a spline somewhere, axles or something, i hope its not the diff, its a freaking q45 for gods sake. And i really hope its not the trany

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it better not be a halfshaft, i got those moser units that cost me a grip, so if its those, im going to be pissed and demand a replacement, but i dont think its them, they seem intact, i just really hope its the stubbies, since i got the 280z in the trunk lol

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it better not be a halfshaft, i got those moser units that cost me a grip, so if its those, im going to be pissed and demand a replacement, but i dont think its them, they seem intact, i just really hope its the stubbies, since i got the 280z in the trunk lol

 

'You need to do less typing and more wrenching. That is the only way you will find out for sure.

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I will put the car on the lift and pull the Ebrake, and try to put it in gear, if the driveshaft still spins then its the clutch, if not, its gotta be a spline somewhere, axles or something, i hope its not the diff, its a freaking q45 for gods sake. And i really hope its not the trany

If the driveshaft still spins it's NOT the clutch????? and as POP say's stop typing and start wrenching.

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driver side halfshaft punched right through the cv end into the stub axle...must have been that cage i installed backwards into the cv housing on the outside part

 

so...1 new cv housing and cage and i am ready to go i hope

 

Im gonna assemble it correctly this time, the cage on the inside on 1 side has the teeth stepped in, does that side point towards the inside of the halfshaft??

 

Along with this im goin to swap in the new 280z stubs, new bearings and seals, new control arm bushings, tokiko illuminas, coilovers, etc....

 

same for the fronts, gotta finaly get the suspension in order

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just gotta get my hands on a new cv housing and insides.

 

The halfshaft looks to be ok, hell it better be, it cost a few bucks, lol

 

I'm gonna put it back together this weekend and start doin all the suspension install at the same time along with the 280z stubs

 

Whats this spindle pin everyone keeps talkin about? Like you need a puller? I just took the bolt off and pushed it out and slid the rod out and seperated the spindle from the control arm, is this what you guys are talkin about???

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I just took the bolt off and pushed it out and slid the rod out and seperated the spindle from the control arm, is this what you guys are talkin about???

 

You're the first one I have ever heard having been able to manually push it out that easily, but I do believe you. It's possible, especially if the previous owner had removed it before and then lubed it. Nice.

 

Davy

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