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more $$ w/ suspension woes


Guest brad

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I'm trying to sort the suspension, chassis, and brakes on my new 77 280 before I start in with the engine. That's hard for me cause if it don't make it go faster...

 

Anyway, there was lots of shake in the steering wheel at speed and lots of play in the front wheels when I got the front off the ground and wiggled them. I ordered shocks and hit the deck to change the tie rod ends.

 

But when I got under there, the outer tie rod ends were in suprisingly good shape for a car w/ 170k, boot was scarred but intact, and all the play feels like it might be in the inner ends.

 

The boots for the inner ends was shot so I tore it off to get a looksee. Nothing to notice except old grease. Now I'm wondering if the boots are $25(x2), the outer ends are $25(x2), the inners are $75(x2), maybe I'm better off w/ a reman rack for $270.

 

You guys been through this?

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It's been my experience that rebuilt and even new racks don't typically come with outer ends - make sure first.

 

Also, the cheapest outers I found were $35 each. I haven't priced inners. $25 for the boots? Yikes - you can get generic rack boots for $5/pair.

 

Also, I did all this to my car (except the inners) and it still vibrated severely. When I got new wheels, it went away completely. Most likely the front wheels needed balancing.

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Where can I get some generic boots? I tried Advance, Napa, and Autozone. icon_confused.gif

 

 

P.S. I found the outers on carparts.com for $25 each. They seem like good ones. They have grease fittings.

 

[ April 28, 2001: Message edited by: brad ]

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accessing memory, oh yeah, with the car jacked up, put one hand on top of the wheel and the other under the wheel, then try to wiggle the wheel by pulling and pushing oppositely with both hands at once (don't grip the wheel side to side as this will allow steering slack to corrupt your test). Anyway, if there is some wobble, then take the bearing dust cap off, remove the cotter pin, and remove the nut retainer. Then see if you can EASILY tighten the nut. If so, the bearing was a little loose. Tighten the nut to the point where the bearings then have no slack (nut movement will recome restricted at this point and can be "felt" if you pay attention. At this point turn the nut another 60 degrees to preload it, and you should be finished. The re-assemble.

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Guest Anonymous

I wrote an article on rebuilding the steering rack that can be found at www.zhome.com under "Technical Articles". The key is to go slowly when honing, checking and testing often. My experience with rebuilds has been decidedly negative. DIY - save money and get a better part.

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