Supra510

Nice work

Wow

Nice work. Interested to see how this turns out.

Looks good, what are you going to use for engine management?

Looks awesome and thanks for the frequent updates. Interesting to see the progress.

Good job. Truck bed liner is great for that texture as you've shown.

Nice

Nice build and LM's with the wide lip. Get a clutch in there!

Sweet pix

Just a hint from all us “non scientists and engineers†out here, you don’t have to be as condescending and abrasive as possible just because you don’t agree with an argument. Your attitude in this thread comes across as if it’s not good enough to be correct you must disparage and belittle as well. You can spin my example any way you want, you can be right, and throw around all the formula's and sanctioned engineering acronyms you’d like. What you really need to work on is tact. If you handled your posts with a little bit more of it, then perhaps you wouldn’t have to worry about “finger wagging†and â€mommy’s admonitionsâ€. I’m not a newbie with a thin skin looking to stir the pot. I did however want to see the thread continue and not have someone relatively new to the forum driven off of it. Glad to see you and the OP have “worked it out†and the thread can continue. As for your future posts all I can say is that civility goes a long way, look in to it….

Agreed. I have absolutely no dog in this fight, but a guy comes on here with a cool idea, is executing it, and apparently has a good reputation as an engine builder and next thing you know it's a battle royale because he made a comment on Rebello's claimed hp? If the Bonneville engine powered that car with enough speed to confirm their hp claims then great, but I don't think it's going too far, even a bit far, to say that Rebello's dyno is a bit on the high side. Great builders, well respected in most circles, but their hp claims are not always accurate. I remember back in the day they advertised 230 hp (crank) out of a L series 2.3 liter. A tuned, EFI example put down 153 at the wheels, which even with a 20% correction is what, 185ish? A bit off 230....

Thanks, Toyota powered, like this one.... Can you find 510's in Europe?

Looks good. I made one once (though not nearly as nice)with that same design and never had starvation issues.

There was a 20b powered car at Road Atlanta for the Mitty in 2009. Sweetest sounding car there.

Nice, keep the updates coming.

I have a Datsun 280zx mod. 80. Version NA, with 170HP. 2.8Liters. 12 valves. RC: 8,8. Head N42. I want to make it turbocharger. I have 2 turbocompresor, from a VOLVO S80 mod 99. I will maintain the engine standard and the boost pressure will be 10psi. My objective of power estimated is 250HP. And a have some questions: Computer: I need a Programmable Computer Unit. AEM EMS V.2 Stand Alone, Is it a good choice??? It’s only as good as the tuner that is available in your area. I just installed a Haltech e11v2. It has been superceded now, but is still nice with a lot of features. However, I had an SDS unit in my car before, and honestly, if I had to tune it by myself with a wideband 02 sensor I’d use the SDS. Much less complicated. Intake Filter (x 2): What is the better option? KyN / PIPERCROSS / AEM / FUJITA Any reputable brand should be ok. K&N is widely used up here. Some people shy away from foam filters. Gasket of Headers: OEM??? Sure Piping: What is the better choice for the diameter of the piping??? Turbo to intercooler piping? Intercooler to TB piping??? Diameter TB?? I’ve used 2.25 and 2.5 inch tubing and both have been fine for the power levels you’re seeking. My throttle body is from a BMW 535i (1980’s) and has around 70mm internal diameter. It’s fine. Some of the cheaper ebay TB’s leak boost. Infiniti Q45 TB’s are used by some Supra tuners so should be fine for your application. Intercooler: Dimensions??? What is the better configuration???: Inlet of intercooler for the right of the car (side of the spark plugs) and the outlet for the left (side of TB??? Whatever fits, which can be pretty large on the 280zx I think. I’d measure the available space and then check ebay for intercoolers in that approximate size. Some people shy away from them, but I’ve used mine with no issues. Valve Blow-Off: What is the better option? THEZSTORE.COM / HKS / GREDDY / TIAL I’m not familiar with what zstore.com has to offer. Any of the others should be fine. I have a Greddy Type-S and it works great Exhaust: Diameter??? If you’re using 2 small turbo’s then the downpipes could be smaller , but it should be 3 inches under the car to the tailpipe. Wideband Lambda: I use an Innovate LM-1. It works fine, can datalog, and has readily available 02 sensors Injector (400cc): What is the better option? THEZSTORE.COM / INYECTOR DYNAMIC May as well go larger if you’re buying new, but you should be able to pick up MKIII Supra injectors that are 440cc for not much money. I have 2 sets just sitting around and I’m sure others do as well. Check out Fuel Injector Clinic as well. I don’t know that many suppliers stock barb type injectors anymore, but I’m not caught up on that subject. Fuel Pressure Regulator: THEZSTORE.COM / AEROMOTIVE / WELDON Again, not familiar with zstore.com. The others should be fine. I use an SARD and it’s been fine Fuel Pump: Aeromotive has a new 340lph pump for a good price and that will fuel more than you’ll need. Bosch 044 is good. Many choices out there, some people have success with Walbro, I wasn’t one of them… Oilcooler: THEZSTORE.COM Spark Plugs: NGK IRIDIUM Not sure Iridiums are worth it. I’d just get the normal NGK’s for the turbo and see how it goes Gauges: What is the better option? AEM / HKS / GREDDY I think anyone would be happy with any of the above. There are VDO and Autometer also. Speedhut makes nice looking gauges as well including a GPS speedometer. I have Prosport which is kind of a knock off brand, but they work great so I’m fine with them and like the look. Like has been noted, you can get you power goals out of a single turbo easily, and it’s a lot less complex, but if you want twins I say go for it. May as well be different. (I’d go single though….)

Lol, thanks. I've had the SDS in there (fuel only, long story) since 1997...Finally decided to run something newer so I just installed a Haltech e11v2 and got it up and running using LSx coils, but I'm taking it to someone else to tune. One thing I always liked about SDS was the simplicity, even if it lacked features, but I'm excited to see what this system can do.

Nice car. These engines sound sweet with an uncorked exhaust...and last forever, at least in stock form. So says my 251k mile SC400 that burns pretty much no oil.

At this point I'd probably pull more values from your MAP setting in the idle range until it idles fine without pulling using the knob. Good it's up and running. Do you have a throttle screw you can use to open the throttle at idle? I never used a ZX throttle body, but I assume it's there. I wouldn't run much boost without a wideband, but you should be able to make it run and drive fine without one. Even if it's pretty pig rich it's drivable, if it's too lean it will stumble and hesitate. For the throttle pump I've only ever used 12-15 both high and low.

I don't have a map in that format, however when I was running SDS with 440cc's on a L28t I believe I used 62 as my constant value from idle to redline, maybe it was 65. Whichever it doesn't matter that much because you can use the MAP values to adjust the fueling. If you're at 77 I'd think that would be too rich, but it depends on your MAP values too. In the idle range you want the MAP values to be the same. I think for 18,19,20 in vacuum I was around 30-32 then for every inch of vacuum I went up 3-4 until I hit boost and then I went up 5 for every psi in boost. Do you have the fuel trim box? If so you could lean it out that way to get it started if what I told you doesn't work. I think stock L28t injectors are what, 370cc? So I'd probably use 60 or less as my constant, and then manipulate the MAP values to adjust the fueling.

Regular ZG's are approximately 2 1/4 front and rear.

Nice write up. Enkei's look good on there.

Nice 527's. I usually like larger wheels, but these look nice.

Nice, I like it.

^^^^^ Is everything you need to know. Deja mentions pushing the wheel past 0 offset which is true. While it does affect scrub radius, it doesn't affect physically fitting the wheel on the car. As he noted, if you're running a 9 inch wide wheel (which btw is 10 inches wide if you measure edge to edge) with a +24 offset the backspacing is 6 inches. Since there is only 4.5 inches of available backspacing on the car, your wheel will smack the strut. So, you buy the 1.5 inch adapter and it spaces the wheel out away from the strut the appropriate amount. Here's another calculator that's more visual http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp