v80z Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 the heads I have are 041 casting 1.94/1.50 with .550 springs. I had new seats, seals,, valves and springs replace for my current build. I need more HP. I know buy different heads. I am running a .508 lift cam. In order to go to a higher lift cam say .600 .650 does one have to buy .100 longer valves to accommodate more travel? I am looking at the feasability of putting bigger 2.08/1.6 valves in these heads with a bigger lft cam. I will work the sharp edges above the valve seats and the inside radius as well as port match them. What spring/retainer/ valve setup would be recommended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 What HP are you getting now and what are you looking for? If your planning on running a roller cam you need new manley or ferrea race valves anyway. +100 valves help with the taller installed spring height and the rest can be done with retainers and keepers. Typically your looking at a 1.950 installed height to handle .600 to .650 lift. The 041's are nice heads but don't flow much over .500 to .550 lift. Port work will definately help that but going to a .600+lift cam won't net you much IMO. I sold my 041's that were 2.02 and 1.6's with screw in studs and guideplates in used condition for $550 on EBAY to somone that needed them for a resto. Then I bought my first set of AFR's, the 220 version. Now I have 3 sets of AFR's and one set of Brodix heads. You'll be glad you bought them, I was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 I suppose I am getting about 270 rwhp now. Would like to get 350 hp to the wheel. 410-450 at the crank opn pump gas. Looking to do it all motor no dope no blow. Any advice to get from wherre I am to where I want to be is most appreciated Wow that is a good selling price I did not know they were worth that much. Would you happen to know the 041 runner sizes? are they about 150 cc? 1970 350 4 bolt. flat tops. 041s air gap and eddy 750 street. BTW these cheapo block huggers seem restrictive. Any ideas there Also if I go with a longer vavle would I need to buy a + .100" pushrods to maintain geometry? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 What kinda hp should I be getting with the setup I have now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 Your doing pretty good for pump gas. For the HP your looking for your going to need a .525 to .550 lift and about 250 duration at .050. Need a single plane intake like the victor jr or Team G. Ditch the edelbrock carb and get a holley 750HP series or so. I picked up a new Holley 835 cfm HP series carb last week on EBAY for $300!!! Headers in the z, I have the full length headers from S&S, not the best, but better than the restrictive block huggers. Get you a underdrive crank pulley, like from moroso, that'll pick up a few rwhp as well. If your running an auto you'll need a 3K stall to make that idle in gear. Yes, you will have to get different pushrods but you need to check it when you go changing things. Rule of thumb is, the more you go trick parts, the more you have to check things to make sure they are aligned right. So, if you buy all of that cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, carb, headers, etc, etc, you could probably sell the heads you've got and get some AFR 195 eliminators, might be the 205's I can't remember. Which is why we typically beat the band wagon on cylinder heads, get cylinder heads and the combination you have will make what you want, no other changes necessary, well except maybe the headers. I'd ditch the carb for sure, but if you get heads you'll be making 430HP or so at the crank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 V80Z lets start from the basics and both see where we stand and what can be done fairly cheaply to reach your goal, I NEED to know ALL the details on your engine youve listed some of the info but please repost it ALL HERE displacement compression ratio compression test readings vacume readings CAM (part # and lift/durration/LCA) heads (casting #, valve size)flow numbers if you have them spring bind height max spring clearance max piston to valve clearance intake used headers used size of exhaust pipes carb size piston type/ part # jet size fuel pressure rockers used (ratio/type) head gasket thickness rear gear ratio tire dia transmission used converter stall speed any port work ignition?? any and ALL other vaguely or potentialy useful info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 displacement 355 compression ratio max on premium now flattops with 64cc head rated at 10.25:1 from factory 1970 tonawanda 4 bolt imapala compression test readings hmmmmm newly built vacume readings hmmmmm CAM (part # and lift/durration/LCA) .508 .508 251 duration heads (casting #, valve size)flow numbers if you have them 041 1.94 1.5 spring bind height new supports up to .550 lift max spring clearance ? max piston to valve clearance ? intake used eddy air gap headers used cheapo block huggers size of exhaust pipes 2" dual carb size eddy performer 750 piston type/ part # speed pro hypertectic flat tops jet size std sea level eddy fuel pressure regulated 6# rockers used (ratio/type) crane cast aluminum rollers 1.5 ratio head gasket thickness ? rear gear ratio 3.9 tire dia 26.1" transmission used manual muncie m20 converter stall speed na any port work none ignition?? crane hi-6 ps2 coil through a proform billet hei dizzy with coil removed running 32 degrees full advance i am looking at the vortech 906 with 2.02/1.6 valves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Keep in mind the object is to make the least expencesive changes do the greatest good, here! well the first change ID MAKE is to swap to this cam, and it sure would help if you pocket ported those current heads, adding an X or H pipe to the exhaust would help also ERSON E113123 http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf WHY? well your seriously over cammed for the application, and the heads can,t flow nearly enought air in the rpm range that the cam wants or is designed to produce max power in and the heads have a flow range that fades before reaching the cams power curve , so you loose low rpm power due to the cam durration and high rpm power due to restricted flow potential of the heads. yes IM only too aware what your software dyno predicts, but having been down this same path more times than I can count, I can tell you youll see results that will move the car better and increase power in your USEABLE rpm band, which due to the heads potential flow is all well below 6000rpm, while your cams designed to reach 7000rpm plus the ERSON much more closely matches the heads potential flow curve as does your dual plane intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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