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Stub axle question...problem???Hard to turn


gearheadstik

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Hey guys i just got through putting my rear strut assy back together and and have a question about the stub axles...I upgraded from 240 to 280 axles and bought MM companion flange upgrades for a r200 lsd...put in new seals and repacked my bearings...now that i torqued down the new lock nuts that come w the kit, it's very hard to turn the stubs by hand...do you think its ok and the bearings are just trying to seat..or is something wrong...i did use a impact to torque the nuts..but didnt bare down on it for long. Anyone have this same issue??? Thanks

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Are they both like that? It's alot easier to take it apart now than when you have the car back together. How hard is "very hard"? Mine don't spin freely but do ahve a slight bit of resistance each time I have replace rear wheel bearings.

 

What sapcer did you use? The one that came with the stubs or the ones from the strut housings. There are 3 different spacers. Should be stamped with A B or C.

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To expand on Mark's reply, the strut housing will have a letter A, B, or C stamped on the cast end that must match the letter stamped on the spacer that is used for that specific strut housing. The different letters are related to differences (very small) in the spacer's length, which matches the differences in the strut housing's machining for the bearing spacing.

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When torquing the stub axle nut, torque it to the minimum number in the specified range (181 ft. lbs. ) and then check pre-load (39 in. lbs.) and end play (0 to .0057") If you're within spec, don't tighten the stub axle lock nut any more. I did a set a couple weeks ago a where one side torqued to 185 ft. lb. and the other to 224 ft. lb. and both were within spec at those torque values.

 

Don't ever just torque them down to 200 or 225 ft. lbs.

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OK...checked my housings and found they use a b spacer which hopefully is whats inside since i didnt have this problem when i took the things apart...I backed the nuts off and knocked the stubs out some to get the load off....then was able to spin freely by hand...retorqued towards 180ft lbs and rechecked...I dont have a in lb wrench but it takes 10 ft lb to turn the nut with my smaller torque wrench which i believe goes from 5-100ft lb....the bearings for a 240-280 are the same correct??? That, the flanges, stubs and seals have been changes...the bearings also came off the 280 donor stubs...any other ideas???? is that 10 lb to turn way too much or could the bearing not be seated??? I will pull it all apart if need be, it's just i have everything painted up pretty and figure that puller will screw all that up...

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Well thanks for the help guys but i think i figured it out...once i popped the first comp flange off i could see where the seal was rubbing the "dust shield???" on the flange...guess thats what wasnt seated..i havent re torqued yet, but plan to do it like you guys said and i think the prob is solved...i'll check back in to let you know if this is it... I know its a good idea to notice how far your seal is pushed in when takin apart but its been a while...another smooth move for me...thanks again :emo:

 

 

Well that was it...they spin great now...been spinning like a mad man..thanks

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