Distributor repairable? *photos*

[ihatejoefitz]

I know its hard to tell what you're looking at, but this is a distributor out of an 83 turbo car. I'm trying to find the reason why my swap (81 zxt engine to 72 240z) isn't sparking. It was suggested to me that I replace the CAS and seeing as how I had an 83 distributor I thought I'd use it. Well, I pop the cap off to see what I'm working with and this is the carnage I saw.

 

This is the dial, it has been sheared into two pieces, the center section and the outer section. The shaft has twisted into the copper collar and the center screw is snapped.

 

I'm guessing this is the root of the problem, the cap must not have been tightened and the rotor must have clipped the side. notice the bent electrode thing.

 

My question is, can I get these parts at courtesy? I don't have a cataloge, I also don't even know what these parts would be called. Is this even worth repairing? Is there a way of bench testing the external CAS I have to determine if it works or not?

 

Thanks

[ihatejoefitz]

Is there a way of bench testing the external CAS I have to determine if it works or not?

 

Thanks

 

I searched and found this.

 

There is an easy way to test both style CAS for z car turbo engines (81-83)' date=' but both depend on the fuel circuit working because that is the indicator that the ecu is sensing.

 

The 81 is mounted near the bottom pulley. I removed the sensor from the mount and ran a small screwdriver across each little pickup (I think there were 3). Each time the pickup was sensed by the ecu the fuel pump would turn on for about 5 seconds. You are basicly fooling the ecu into thinking the engine is running.

 

On the later style dizzys, remove the dizzy from the engine and hookup the wiring. Then spin the dizzy by hand. The ecu thinks the engine is running and turns the fuel pump on.

 

Both are fairly simple to do unless you can't hear the pump running.[/quote']

[ihatejoefitz]

I also found this.

 

I found a cheap and easy was to check the ignitor.

 

Remove it from the car. Attach a meter to the blue wire of the ignitor and ground the other meter lead to the coil bracket. Using a AA battery and some wire' date=' apply the + side of the battery to part of the ignitor where the yelllow w/ white stripe wire used to be connected. Every time the + side of the battery connects to the ignitor, the meter will measure a short or less that 2ohms.[/quote']

[ihatejoefitz]

I went to nissan today to see if they had the replacement parts. They only had the cap, rotor, and they could replace the distributor as a whole. Looks like I'm searching for a new distributor or another way to possibly trigger MS.

[Phantom]

Not knowing where you live it's hard to know what your potential resources may be. You might check and see if theire is an automotive electric shop in town. They normally rebuild alternators but they also get into distributors. They might have a lead on the parts you need.

 

I know what you mean about distributor parts. The stock S30 distributor has a bronze bushing in it that wears out eventually and allows the rotaor to wobble. the only way to fix it is to buy an entire distributor even though the bushing can be easily removed & replaced and only costs about $3.

[roger.svoboda]

well for one thing a 83 dizzy won't work with a 81 turbo unless you have done some rewiring. 81 dizzy use mag pickup. 82,83 use optical.