Turbo Meister Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Everytime I remove and replace the engine and trans from my Z, I spill trans fluid. It's a curse because I find a different way to do it each time. I installed a new torque converter today and my foot knocked over an open gallon of fluid that I used to prime the converter. My garage floor was a mess. I hate that stuff. Anyone else similarly cursed? Whenever I remove the engine or trans there is insufficient clearance to unbolt or just remove one or the other. So everything comes out. Am I the only one doing it this way? Anyway, got my new Art Carr 4000 stall converter. Had to step up because DR Hunt has one. And no shop was willing to rebuild my old GER converter. I found out that this company is no longer in business and now I know why. I really shouldn't complain, the converter lasted six years and took quite some abuse. When I went to Art Carr, in Huntington Beach, he cut open the GER and compared the internals to his converter. Several of the vanes had torn loose on the impeller side and the stator had some deep cracks. That all explains why the engine stayed at 7000 rpm without any shift rpm drops while racing. Although the new unit looks beefier I'm having a hard time justifying the obscene cost. Hopefully it will last another six years. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 On the converter and keep us updated on your next run.... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzed Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Oh I'm in - every time I touch either the trans or the engine the entire floor of my shop is covered in the red slop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Trans fluid seems to cover more surface area when spilled than any other fluid known to man. Good luck Hanns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 When I set up our Z-car I set the engine with the #1 spark plug hole to the center of the front tire. We use motor plate along with a mid-plate. We can pull either or with out a problem and have clearence to unbolt the trans from the block. Had to make a cross member, but it was close to the original setup. See attached photo. John Oh good luck with the new converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Everytime I remove and replace the engine and trans from my Z' date=' I spill trans fluid. It's a curse because I find a different way to do it each time. I installed a new torque converter today and my foot knocked over an open gallon of fluid that I used to prime the converter. My garage floor was a mess. I hate that stuff. Anyone else similarly cursed? Whenever I remove the engine or trans there is insufficient clearance to unbolt or just remove one or the other. So everything comes out. Am I the only one doing it this way? Anyway, got my new Art Carr 4000 stall converter. Had to step up because DR Hunt has one. And no shop was willing to rebuild my old GER converter. I found out that this company is no longer in business and now I know why. I really shouldn't complain, the converter lasted six years and took quite some abuse. When I went to Art Carr, in Huntington Beach, he cut open the GER and compared the internals to his converter. Several of the vanes had torn loose on the impeller side and the stator had some deep cracks. That all explains why the engine stayed at 7000 rpm without any shift rpm drops while racing. Although the new unit looks beefier I'm having a hard time justifying the obscene cost. Hopefully it will last another six years. Hanns[/quote'] Hanns, Ok, I have to share. Last night I was pulling out the th400 out of the monte. Had the car jacked up so high that the jack wouldn't go high enough to lift the trans off the xmember. So, get a board to put on the jack, half flat, half round. Jacked up the trans started lowering it, something hung up, and the board rolled and off and down it came, by the time I got it righted, a gallon had probably spilled out the tailshaft. No paper towels, so off to WalMart I go, while there there is the "oh, I need this and that." So, by the time I get back, since the floor isn't exactly level, the trans fluid migrated in places I didn't think it would go. So, two rolls of paper towells later followed by Dawn and a mop and I was done. Never fails! And the thought of draining the trans crossed my mine, but I said "Naw, I can get it out without spilling a drop". That was my first mistake, thinking. So, my converter was $670 how much was yours or do I need to ask? You get one free restall from Art Carr, so that seemed like a good idea. Also mine was guaranteed. Since you got one too, same stall, I think I'll send mine back and get it restalled for 5000 so I can get the holeshot on you. JK, I'm going to get it running here pretty soon, so it'll be the precursor to a turbocharged hybridZ!!! I'm looking forward to it. Then after that it's BBC time for the '33 dodge. I have a question though. When you turned up the boost, did your AFR remain unchanged or did that require some jetting change? Also what total timing are you running and how much to you pull out per lb of boost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 One of the better investments I have made. Only time it doesn't work is when I am too lazy to pull it out. Even useful for catching rust and debris when unbolting parts. Plus I always keep a covered bucket of saw dust or kitty litter handy. Taking a moment to close up open containers is always a good idea that seem hard to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 When I set up our Z-car I set the engine with the #1 spark plug hole to the center of the front tire. OK, that explains it. My engine is further back to the point that the trans bolts are not accessible. I just don't feel like refabricating everything over again to make the change, so I'll live with it. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 So' date=' my converter was $670 how much was yours or do I need to ask? When you turned up the boost, did your AFR remain unchanged or did that require some jetting change? Also what total timing are you running and how much to you pull out per lb of boost?[/quote'] Sounds like the trans fluid curse took a quick trip to New Mexico. And made a bigger mess than in my garage. I feel your pain. I paid $889, but that must be because of the California surcharge. Or because Art needed extra cash for his trans shop payments. I had the same jetting with 10psi boost as with 17. It was too rich with 10 but just about right with 17. I found that comparing other forced induction engines' tune with mine is rarely beneficial because of the many variables inherent in these combinations. Using race fuel, the total timing must be at 40 degrees in order for my engine not to be sluggish upon acceleration. Before my converter went bad, my best 60 ft time was 1.33. This was accomplished by taking only 8 degrees out by full boost using the MSD 6al BTM. Yet other, faster than mine turbo combinations, rarely use more than 25 degrees total timing. You will have to experiment in order to find the right timing and jetting with your combination. But I can help when the time comes by narrowing down your tuning options. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 Taking a moment to close up open containers is always a good idea that seem hard to do. Unfortunately, I usually have more things on my mind, at that moment, than any mortal human being can handle. I even told myself, just before the spill, "cap that trans fluid before you do anything else." If I would only listen!! Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Meister Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 So' date=' my converter was $670 how much was yours or do I need to ask? When you turned up the boost, did your AFR remain unchanged or did that require some jetting change? Also what total timing are you running and how much to you pull out per lb of boost?[/quote'] Sounds like the trans fluid curse took a quick trip to New Mexico. And made a bigger mess than in my garage. I feel your pain. I paid $889, but that must be because of the California surcharge. Or because Art needed extra cash for his trans shop payments. I had the same jetting with 10psi boost as with 17. It was too rich with 10 but just about right with 17. I found that comparing other forced induction engines' tune with mine is rarely beneficial because of the many variables inherent in these combinations. Using race fuel, the total timing must be at 40 degrees in order for my engine not to be sluggish upon acceleration. Before my converter went bad, my best 60 ft time was 1.33. This was accomplished by taking only 8 degrees out by full boost using the MSD 6al BTM. Yet other, faster than mine turbo combinations, rarely use more than 25 degrees total timing. You will have to experiment in order to find the right timing and jetting with your combination. But I can help when the time comes by narrowing down your tuning options. Hanns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 I found that comparing other forced induction engines' tune with mine is rarely beneficial because of the many variables inherent in these combinations. Using race fuel' date=' the total timing must be at 40 degrees in order for my engine not to be sluggish upon acceleration. Before my converter went bad, my best 60 ft time was 1.33. This was accomplished by taking only 8 degrees out by full boost using the MSD 6al BTM. Yet other, faster than mine turbo combinations, rarely use more than 25 degrees total timing. You will have to experiment in order to find the right timing and jetting with your combination. But I can help when the time comes by narrowing down your tuning options. Hanns[/quote'] Interesting... With my roots blower at 10lbs boost my total timing is 40 degrees with 91 octane gas and I'm pulling 5 degrees with a MSD 6 BTM. My AFR is steady at 12.1 Boost on Hanns.... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 I went to put the converter in the PG last night and bolt the trans and the engine together. Poured about a half a quart in the new art carr converter, just to make sure it wasn't dry. I'm sure you all know where this is going. So, most stock converters just slip right in, you spin it alittle to get the pump dogs to mesh with the converter and in she goes, right. Nope, the art car is so damned tight fitting it had no slop, I had greased the seal and shaft, shoved, pushed rotated, etc. to no avail, it kind of went in past the seal and that was about it. Meanwhile some of the trans fluid was pouring out the converter while I was trying to get it in the seal. So finally, once I got it in the seal, I grabbed my rubber mallet and hit the center a few times and in it went but it was extremely tight. Bolted right up to the engine, spins nicely but tight. So, another little mess. Well, we'll see on tune, I'll probably be looking you up. My cam is rather large compared to yours so I'm sure it'll need alot of timing to be responsive down low. I've heard that the blow through setups have a large cooling effect on the charge air so you run more timing. This comes from my friends running prochargers in a blow through setup, seems to be confirmed by your accounts as well. My old MAC timing light magnet broke and so I had to buy a new SnapON digital one off ebay for $125. Well, new to me. Works great and I glued the magnet back in and gave it to a friend, seems to still work, but I had issues with it being accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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