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made a little video of my n/a turbo


Guest dan4011

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it was wired into the "on" postiton on the ign. it was also a resistor in there... i forgot what size, but it was cheap from radioshack, so i didnt fry the csv (you dont really need it... but i did it anyways...) i eidnt even have it hooked up to the cvs wires, i just cut the connector off, isolated the old wires on the harness... and used the clip with the 2 wires...one to the power, and the other ground.

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The csv isnt really an additional injector. It is a cold start valve and is designed to be held open for a long time. It cant respond nearly as quickly as an actual injector.

 

I am interested in the timing deal. I want to run a turbo on my na motor, but only 7lbs or less boost. Just to clarify, I can lock out the mechanical advance, set the base timing around 18deg, and let the vac advance do the rest? Eventually I would hook up my megasquirt to control spark, but not right away if I dont really have to...

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Yes, that is how the timing works. Just lock the mechanical advance and use the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance does help advance the timing off boost but not as much as the mechanical advance. Once the boost comes on, the positive mnaifold pressure will shut down the advance from the vacuum canister.

 

The csv doesn't need to respond quickly (like an injector). During boost, it just comes on and stays on until the boost goes away.

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is it possible to run a turboed n/a motor at about 7psi with out modifying anyhting else other than ignition timing? or will the cold start injector, afm fuel pressure regulator and pump NEED upgrading or modifying?

 

its a standard n/a motor, f54 block n42 head. t3/t4 turbo, na injectors, na computer etc

 

i want to start the motor this weekend, just wanting to know what to expect

 

thanx

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A F54 block with a N42 head is not a stardard N/A engine. You are already making 10:1 cr with that combo. A standard F54 block has flat tops and a N42 is a small chamber head.

 

You will need to install a P79 or P90 head to get the cr down to a least 8.8:1cr (standard 81 to 83 cr).

 

With 7 psi of boost and 8.8:1 cr you will need to lock the mechanical advance, set the timing to 20 degrees, use the vacuum advance, and use a bell engineering fmu set to make 50 to 60 psi of fuel pressure at 7 psi of boost. A stock pump can handle 50 to 60 psi during high flow but that is it.

 

Do you have all the oil feed and drain components for the turbo?

If you are using a t04e compressor then you will need a spacer?

Do you have a factory wastgate, J-pipe, and down pipe.

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is it possible to run a turboed n/a motor at about 7psi with out modifying anyhting else other than ignition timing? or will the cold start injector' date=' afm fuel pressure regulator and pump NEED upgrading or modifying?

 

its a standard n/a motor, f54 block n42 head. t3/t4 turbo, na injectors, na computer etc

 

i want to start the motor this weekend, just wanting to know what to expect

 

thanx[/quote']

wouldnt run the f54 with a small chamber head, deff get a p79 or p90 unless you run dished pistons. (f54 is flat tops) and id reccomend to just go ahead and get zxt injectors if you were to run 7lbs on n/a. zxt fuel pump would do to.

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sorry, i should have said that i have dished pistons with a 40thou overbore and its intercooled.

i think there may be a spacer, but i cant remember for sure. i bought the turbo and manifold as is. i've added a 3" dump pipe and that follows all the way through to the rear muffler. its an internal wastgate that i had tested to see when it would open and it opened at about 7 psi. everything is in the car and ready to go, i'm just putting the last couple of things together before its time to start it up

i have sorted out the oil feed and return for the turbo. i used a T peice and added it onto the oil pressure switch.

 

280zxt parts are a VERY rare find in australia, which is why i'm having to use na parts. i could find a fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator from a z31 turbo. would these work?

 

are 280zxt injectors a direct bolt in with the na engines and wiring loom?

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You don't need a turbo fuel pump. A stock NA pump will work just fine. On high boost applications, I have used two stock NA pump in parallel with good results.

 

I wouldn't use turbo injectors with a NA ecu. First of all, new injectors are expensive and they will also make your engine run rich off boost. The way to run a turbo on a NA ecu is with a FMU. The FMU goes in the return fuel line after the stock FPR. The stock FPR handles the fuel pressure control off boost then the FMU kicks in with boost. And 7 psi of boost will need about 50 to 55 psi with stock NA injectors. I use a bell engineering FMU and it cost me 200.00.

 

I have been using NA ecu and injectors on my turbo car for years. I have found the stock pump will make about 55 psi during boost. Two stock pumps in parellel can make about 75. If you feed two efi pumps with a good flowing 7 psi carb pump then 85psi is possible. I use two MSD 2225 efi pumps and a Mallory Comp 110 as a feeder pump and make 100 psi of fuel pressure at 15 psi of boost. Corky Bell says to limit fuel pressure to about 100 psi when using a FMU.

 

Did you lock out the mechanical advance yet?

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no, i havn'e started altering the ignition yet. to lock out the mechanical advance do i basically have to stop the springs from altering the timing through centrefugal forces and only use the vacume advance, which should just be a line goin into the distributer somewhere from the intake manifold? i'm not 100% sure, so i may be way off

 

is an FMU a form of rising rate fuel pressure regulator?

 

what would happen if i was to run the car without altering the mechanical advance or the FMU? would it just run rough or would the outcome be something more sinister

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Pull out the distributor, remove the cap and rotor, pry up the star wheel with two screwdrivers, remove the two outer screws holding on the electronics plate and remove the plate. You should be able to see the mechanical advance slots. Just fill the slots with silicone and let it dry over night.

 

Yes, a FMU is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, but is works with the stock FPR unit.

 

You can run the run without any modification to the fuel pressure or timing as long as you stay off of boost. You could run a few psi without any problems but that is about it. Since you have a hybird turbo, boost should be delayed a bit, so keeping the rpms under 3500 and avoiding full throttle should keep you safe. Do you have a boost gage in the car?

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dude, you should be fine... enjoy it!!

 

 

oh yeah... what did you do for your return line for the oil? im getting ready for another n/a-turbo swap, and im looking for an alternative to pulling my oil pan...in car. ive done it twice.. and its a pita... but ill do it again if theres no other good way.

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My first conversion I just punched a hole through the stock oil pan, threaded it with a NPT tap, and installed a threaded hose barb fitting with silicone on the threads. I have seem this technique done on vortec super charger installs on V8.

 

I used about a 24 inch long rod, 1/2 or 5/8 diameter (I forget, but use the right size for the tap), with a point ground on the end. The start of the taper to the point was about 2 inches. The only bad part is you must remove the wheel and drill a clearance hole in the tension rod sheet metal bracket for the rod to pass through. This allows you to hit the end of the rod from outside the engine compartment. Hard to generate enough hammer impact in that tight space between the oil pan and frame rail. An impact chisel might work.??? I drilled a 0.25" hole at the stock drain back location then enlarged it with the tapered rod. And make sure the pan bolts are tight on that side of the pan.

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i welded on a small peice of pipe to the side of the pan, then just ran a hose from the oil outlet to the pipe in the oil pan.

 

well i'll probly start it on the weekend with a bit of luck. guess i'll wait and see how it runs and listen for any off noises

 

will turbo injectors fit my settup? if they fit in i might upgrade in the future and up the boost a little. and they dont seem too expensive either

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Not exactly what you need. I think you bought a boost reference fpr which ramps up fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio with boost. So, 7 psi of boost will only have a 7 psi fuel pressure increase. You need to be able to change the ratio of pressure increase to 8:1 or more.

 

Stock idle pressure is 28, stock zero vacuum (WOT) is around 35. You will need at least 60 psi for 7 pis of boost, 35 + 7 will not be enough.

 

60 psi will work, but in theory even more than 60psi of fuel pressure is required for 7 psi of boost. 70 or 80 would be better.

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