73_240z Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I have been searching and searching and I cannot find the thread which RacerX mentions the adhesive to use when cold welding. Anybody reccomend any certain adhesive. I am planning on shaving my rear and my welding skills way beyond awful so any other method is what im looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icesky Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Well based on my exerience I tryed using cold weld by Lord for my shaved doors, and shaved tail markers and they bulged out after a year or so! Sorry to be bummer on your plan. Also welding isnt that bad its just settings and using halfway decent machinary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 If you overlap the holes, ie, put the filler metal on the back side you can solder the holes closed with body solder/lead. Clean both pieces of metal till they are bright and shinny, the drill some small holes for pup rivets. Apply some solder flux to the area and pop rivet the piece in. Now solder the piece in with the body solder/lead. Use cotton cloth that candle wax rubbed on it the smooth the solder/lead. It will take some practice, just remember this is how body work was done before BONDO. Grind off the pop rivets and fill them in with solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I watched an old guy, means that I'm not old, do solder on a car back in the '70s. I thought then and still do that he used pure lead. He had a "stick" of lead about a half and inch square and he had a rod of lead about a 1/4 inch in diameter. IIRC he said that pure lead worked better than antimony lead like in wheel weights. He used a propane torch BTW and said that this was the real way to do body work!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I used 50/50 when it was readily available at the local hardware store, or work when I worked in the pipe trades. What you really need is this. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=1681&keyword=31127 This is 30% tin and 70% lead, so where a respirator when you grind on it you do not need to breath lead dust. I use Nocorrode for flux since it was the best stuff for soldering copper pipe, and works on body work too. I use a LP troche for soldering and take my time. Of course I now have a Lincoln 135 mig under my bench right now so you know how I would do this work now. I am looking at doing a hot rod project in future and will do all of the body work in lead. The technique that I use is use the troche on a lower heat heating the area that I am working on. I start melting the solder on the area also tinning the filler panel. Start rubbing the solder bar on the area and use the candled cloth to smooth the solder. With practice the old timers would fill an area that will surprise you. Ever wonder why the old 50s Lincoln hot rods were called “LEAD SLEDSâ€. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icesky Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 RacerX, The glue didnt break its bond but it did shift slightly after time. Also it was the patch that buldged I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. G. Olphart Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 In the early 60's I spent an afternoon watching the body man at a Chrysler dealership do lead work. He used 50/50 solder, and began by tinning the repair area. He used 50/50 because it may be heated to where it becomes plastic, and can then be pushed around like putty to form as needed. For pushing, he had a batch of different shaped hardwood paddles, which he dipped (wiped across) a loaf pan of bees wax before use. IIRC, he was using an oxy-acetylene torch set so rich it threw carbon. Before dipping a paddle, he melted the surface of the bees wax with the torch. Sorry I can't provide more detail, but it has been a while. <> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73_240z Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 I went and checked out the autozone and advanced stores in my area and none of them had any of the adhesives you guys advised me to use. Would one of the jb-weld products be strong enough? The guy at autozone told me to use the JB industo cold weld compound. He said that he used it to patch a couple holes in his wranglers floor board and its held up for two years so far. Any of you have experience using this and know wether or not it will hold up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Ok, Here if you really want to do it use plastic. Fiberglass in the holes from the back side; you will have to drop the gas tank. Rough the heck out of the inside of the body panel. Cut the glass about 6" larger than the hole, is bumper mounds and the like. Dip the glass in the resin and stretch in over the inside of the hole. Wait until it is well set up and then fill the outside with a thin coat of quality flexible body filler, do not use bondo. Go to an auto paint store. You can add a piece of sheet metal a little larger than the hole if you want to. I would just lead it in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
73_240z Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Thank you gentlemen. Any advice you guys give is taken to heart as i am a newbie to the body work and etc. I'll post pics as i make my progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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