Engine Mount Question

[Danno74Z]

Instead of purchasing the JTR engine mounts and offset brackets I am contemplating on building my own. I know the JTR book has drawings on doing this but I was wondering if any members have either built their own or more importantly designed their own mounting system and located the engine in the “setback” position. I know of several hot rod companies that sell “universal” mounting brackets that one can cut to fit inside the frame rails and was wondering if this could possibly work. Thoughts? Comments?

 

Danno74Z

[Guest Anonymous]

My first 350Z had elephant ear design from my uncle's 340 duster. The guy who installed it was an Alcohol funny car driver/builder. he also custom made the trans mount from some 4130 plate and tubing he had in his "scrap" pile. This setup didn't work as well as the JTR or MSA kits but it sure was fun to drive, Or at least fun to try and hold on to. I have to admitt it was a lot more fun to do that when I was younger. Les

[DavyZ]

Having a "universal" type of tube instead of using the pillars on the crossmember is an intruiging idea. Mike Knell said he will be looking at doing that kind of thing for the JTR V8Z swap in the future. According to him, it will solve several problems at once and provide a nice alternative.

 

David

[pparaska]

The tough thing about doing a separate crossmember (if that's what you're getting at Davy) is that the frame rails on these cars are thin and usually rusty inside. In other words, they don't like to take concentrated loads well, so mounting a new crossmember under the SBC mount pads can run into trouble. The stock crossmember is bolted to a reinforced corner of the frame rail, so this helps spread the loads.

 

Luckily for me (?), my rails were rusty enough that I replaced them - they are thicker steel and could take one of these universal crossmember solutions better.

[DavyZ]

Pete, when it comes to the Z car, I have to agree with you. I would think 280Z's would be the best candidates for that kind of modification. I personally like the current setup the most. Putting the engine load where it was designed to be in the first place seems to make the most sense, especially from a practicality point of view and an engineering point of view (I'll rely on yours )

 

If cutting out the frame rails was not so intimidating, it would be something I would like to do. I think your car is much better than new with respect to the structural aspect (shoot, in any aspect) of the car.

 

David

[Guest Anonymous]

Oh, did I forget to mention the holes I tore in the floorpans. It was a less than perfect car for a V8 swap. 1/4 mile times were slow (400HP) skinny BFG's stock 350 trans. It did manage to get me a ticket for 138 in a 55. 3months in jail suspended with weekend community service. I guess selling that one was probably a good idea.

[Peternell]

Danno, I made my engine, trans and radiator brackets by following the JTR manual templates.

Pretty darn easy (my fabrication buddy works for beer) - it was a little bit of a pain to drill through the 3/8" off-set brackets. The spacers were made from 3/8" & 1/4" aluminum plates (obtained from the local metal salvage yard for $.40 per pound)

which cost about $6.00.

 

Total cost for engine brackets & spacers, transmission mount and radiator mount was $15 for material and $20 for beer (I got half of it) so a net cost of $25 and a few brain cells.

 

Dropped in a bare block & heads and transmission just to check the fit and it was fine. I may make another set of brackets and move the engine up about a 1/2" (ya I know guys) to give enough clearance for an 8" balancer. (building a lower budget 406 and want to avoid either an internal balance job or pricey 7 1/4" external balancer)

 

IMO Save the money make the brackets and spend the savings elsewhere on the project.

 

Larry (aka Peternell)