savageskaterkid Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Your I/c module is bad, it got too hot, same thing happened on my ZX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 14, 2006 Author Share Posted September 14, 2006 ok, whats an I/C module? (ignition control? as in the thing that controls the spark?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 here's one for you Olie: If you can bypass the ignition switch and get it to run, you've got a problem with your ignition switch. Those keys seem pretty average, but that little piston and con rod might need to be lightened for better performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 ok, whats an I/C module? (ignition control? as in the thing that controls the spark?) Ignition control module, sorry bout the short and not too the point post, I was in class. I had the same thing happen to me, you may have fried the I/C in such a way that it will start, but wont run. Try this, start it, but rev it till its about 2000-2500 rpms, will it still run? If you throw it in drive, or drop the clutch, does it still run as long as you keep the RPMs up? I put on a new I/C control unit, and it ran great, till the car warmed up. Once it warmed up, it would cut out under 2000 rpms, it would stop the spark, but in the upper RPMs, it was fine. I heat-sinked it to the fender and it ran great. You may have fried the I/C in such a way that its giving these symptoms to your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 15, 2006 Author Share Posted September 15, 2006 here's one for you Olie: If you can bypass the ignition switch and get it to run, you've got a problem with your ignition switch. Those keys seem pretty average, but that little piston and con rod might need to be lightened for better performance. When I unplugged the harness and jumpered the "IG" and "B" terminals on the ignition lock harness, nothing happened, and those are the only two pins that need to be jumpered for the engine to run. Instead I had to jumper the "B" and "R" pins, which are only supposed to come on durring cranking. Ignition control module' date=' sorry bout the short and not too the point post, I was in class. I had the same thing happen to me, you may have fried the I/C in such a way that it will start, but wont run. Try this, start it, but rev it till its about 2000-2500 rpms, will it still run? If you throw it in drive, or drop the clutch, does it still run as long as you keep the RPMs up? I put on a new I/C control unit, and it ran great, till the car warmed up. Once it warmed up, it would cut out under 2000 rpms, it would stop the spark, but in the upper RPMs, it was fine. I heat-sinked it to the fender and it ran great. You may have fried the I/C in such a way that its giving these symptoms to your car.[/quote'] The car revs normal, all the way to 5k, and I am able to drive the car around with the "jumper it like you stole it- paper clip to the ignition lock harness" method. IMO i think the ignition module is fine, otherwise the engine would act really differently. I'm going to be tracing the wire going to the "IG" pin on the lock module, and seeing if anything is shorted or the like. One thing that would help me alot, if any of you guys has a stock 280z, and i mean as stock as mine, can you tell me which relay clicks (passenger side) when you move the key from the acc position to the "on" position? I think that bit of information will help me in my quest for the faulty wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 I wish I could help, but the camo zzzap doesn't even HAVE an ignition switch anymore. You have to turn on the rear defrost and then a seperate switch for the fuel pump, and then push a starter button...probably shouldn't have revealed my secret Biff Tanner start-up procedure on the internet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Globerunner513 Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 I wish I could help, but the camo zzzap doesn't even HAVE an ignition switch anymore. You have to turn on the rear defrost and then a seperate switch for the fuel pump, and then push a starter button...probably shouldn't have revealed my secret Biff Tanner start-up procedure on the internet.... crap talk about a kill switch.... just curious...what's wired into the defrost button? not like its a secret anymore anyway:rolleyesg i know this isn't your problem, but have you checked all your vacuum hoses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 The ignition control module is powered through the defroster, then the fuel pump is on it's own switch, and the gauges and alternator run through the hazard switch. It's been awhile since I wired it, so I don't remember exactly which wire from the ignition plug I used for what. It's not really crap talk, it's just how my car is wired. If it were still stock, I'd be the first in line to tell Olie what relays click when I turn the key...but since I don't have one, somebody else will have to take the reigns on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 15, 2006 Author Share Posted September 15, 2006 My vacuum hoses are doing well, how are yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 Hey... just a thought.. I had a tach go bad in a 72 240Z... caused a similar problem... there just are not as many other possible things to go wrong in the 240Z... The ignition systems are not even close to being the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 This link has the a PDF file "The EFI bible" and I would also check the individual links because some of your problems are stated in them.... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted September 15, 2006 Author Share Posted September 15, 2006 Thanks for the link larry. I have been using the efi bible religiously through this entire ordeal. BTW tach works fine in "start" position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 One other thing, and don't laugh, is that if you wash the engine bay and get water in the tps mounting hole you get the same symptoms you are having. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 Larry's right, I had that happen once on my old 280, and I disconnected the tps and it ran fine until it was dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 I don't know, when my tps got wet the engine would start and idle fine but would not rev out. I tried to figure out which relay it is that clicks for ya olie but mine clicks when the key is turned to the ACC position. It doesn't seem to click when turned from ACC to RUN position. I couldn't tell which one it was, I need a helper. Anyhow, I think my dad (it is my mom's old car) had problems with the fuel pump and replaced it and still had problems and may have bypassed the relay that feeds the pump. Going to have to investigate into it at some point because I want to replace the pump, add a regulator and run new lines. So are you more convinced it may be not ignition and might could be fuel pump? I bought a cheesy pressure gauge and tee'd it into the fuel line right before the bar and taped it up so I could see it while it ran to try to diagnois another problem (bad temp sender). Maybe you could do that. I'm also thinking about getting a late 90's tercel now THAT is crazy talk... crazy talk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 I don't know, when my tps got wet the engine would start and idle fine but would not rev Let me say this about tech tips. When you tell or ask if someone had looked at a specific item a problem with that item can cause different cars to react differently to a problem with that same item. LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 here's Larry: Let me say this about tech tips. When you tell or ask if someone had looked at a specific item a problem with that item can cause different cars to react differently to a problem with that same item. Here's me: I think I understood that...Who's on first again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 LOL.... There's going to be a test after my next post.... LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Globerunner513 Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 hahah...sorry veritech...my post didn't mean to come out like that that line was supposed to read.... "Crap....talk about a kill switch! " lol dunno what happened with that. otherwise that sounds like it gets the job done pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zznotop Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 Tap on your ECU with a screwdriver ! Mine did the same thing and teh ECU ended up being faulty, when it worked it worked but then it would just die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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