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327 buzz motor


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sold school Z28 motors were DZ 302s, they had the 4.00 inch bore of the 327 and the 283s(?) short throw crank. reved nicely.

 

a common thing now a days is a 377, a 400 small block that is bored with a 350 crank in it. also see the 400 block with a 327 crank in it.

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stay with short stroke and it will rev. Before the older guys start flaming I KNOW its not a real 302 but I would still like to build a 327block/283 crank version of the 302 and see what it does. Probably wouldnt make a whole lotta power but Im sure a lil boost could fix that problem.

 

O yeah other things to keep in mind when wanting a high rev motor are solid cam/lifters, maybe a rev kit to keep the lifters in their place, lightweight reciprocating assembly and make sure it is balanced.

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its a real 302... its just not a DZ block. DZ blocks bring lotso money..

 

I agree but a lot of the die hard old skool guys have argued the point that it isnt a REAL 302 to me more than once. Other than casting numbers I dont see a difference but they all argue a 327 block with a 283 crank doesnt equal 302ci. Well TECHNICALLY the 302 was exactly 302ci either, 301.xx I think.

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Now that there are aftermarket cranks, you can buy a 3 inch stroke or 3.25 inch stroke and build one in a 4 bolt 350 block. Also Childs and Albert makes special bearings to run the small journal crank in the medium journal 350 block. Would get my vote if your going to build one since it keeps bearing speed down. Hotrod magazine did a 3.25 stroke small journal in a 400 block, yielding 350 cubic inches that made over 400HP very nicely in a streetable package.

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I don,t know your budget,the cars weight,rear gear,tire dia. transmission ,are you required to use stock iron heads, is there a cpr or cam lift limit? or if your willing to spend a reasonable amount to be the guy with the fast car on your local track,ID need to KNOW the restrictions the rules place and the other restrictions youll face, could you be more informative or are you just looking for a generic 327 combo, YOUR BUDGET will be critical

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back in the 1960s and early 1970s the sbc effective max displacement was limited to about 331-352 displacement simply because the heads available, and valve control tech was limited and could not supply the engines needs much above that displacement with the valve train control limits then available, flow thru the ports was limited, thats why guys like GRUMPY JENKINS built 331 sbcs in classes limited to x displacement PER LB,of car weight, don,t get confused, they could easilly have made more power with a larger engine ,even back then, just not as much power PER CUBIC INCH,once the heads and valve train control issues were worked out the 358-377 became the new upper limits for awhile, now your looking at artificial rules induced limits in racing simply because there ARE heads available that will allow a 450 displacement to work at full efficiency, buzzing the engine much above 7000rpm is generally totally un-necessary if the displacements not limited. spinning an engine past about 4500 fpm in piston speed is rarely productive,on a 327 thats 8000rpm, but it requires very expensive parts to maintain valve control and long term depenability, drop the rpms to about 6500rpm,increase the displacement to 400 cubic inches and cost drop off significantly but power stays similar or increases

 

example

 

1960s

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm

 

today

 

http://www.brodix.com/BD%20Series.html

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"I have a 327 I'm planning on building, I'm wondering whats a good combination to get a high rpm motor. Planning for track use. Grumpvette any ideas?"

 

whats your budget and what car, rear gear, heads, typpe of transmision etc. your working with?

 

we can suggest anything from a basic refresh with a mild cam upgrade and a few tweaks to help the power, up to a full overhaul, race build

 

now looking over this thread again I get the feeling your most likely on a limited budget and were looking for a noticable increase over the stock engine but want to keep the costs low and difficulty level on the simple side? I appologise If you think I was jumpping on your idea, that was really not my intention, whats your budget and whats your goal, what are we working with?

if your like me your budget won,t cover, nearly what you would like to do, but that doesn,t mean you can,t have a noticable increase in performance thru simple tweaks like an intake and cam swap, or if the budget will allow, new heads?

lets us help

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I have a somewhat limited budget, but I do plan on replacing the heads. Its a small journal motor, does that limit my options? I'm planning on running a manual trans. havent decided which. When you talk about parts

to maintain valve control and dependability how expensive is expensive. I can most of the assembly work myself, the parts are going to be the main

cost.

Thanks for the help.

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I have a somewhat limited budget' date=' but I do plan on replacing the heads. Its a small journal motor, does that limit my options? I'm planning on running a manual trans. havent decided which. When you talk about parts

to maintain valve control and dependability how expensive is expensive. I can most of the assembly work myself, the parts are going to be the main

cost.

Thanks for the help.[/quote']

 

No, not really, I'd ditch the SJ rods and get some better rods like Eagles, also I'd ditch the 2 bolt block and go with a 350 4 bolt main, just get the special bearings from C&A. Get some forged pistons and some heads, you should be set.

 

For valve train, your going to need to go solid to spin any kind of rpm, with matching springs, roller rockers, good pushrods. I'd run a stud girdle with anything over .500 lift and more than 6500 rpm, cheap insurance for $100, but you have to use the tall valve covers.

 

327's just keep pulling for some reason, the SJ works better IMO than the large journal.

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ok, whats the cars weight and rear gear ratio, and tire dia.?

thats important for matching the components,do you currently have a low restriction exhaust and headers,what parts do you currently have?

lets assume you want the most power available fom a limited budget , and let me know if your willing to go the stroker route or want to stay with the 327 displacement?

Ill ASSUME your wanting to use the basic 327 displacement unless your telling me differant?

and give me some idea as to a realistic budget? you can do a whole lot more with $2000-$3000 than $500-$700 so give me a clue as to what we are working with here?

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$2-3k, I currently do not have any other components such as headers or

exhaust. I'm not sure about the weight, whatever a 71 240Z weighs, plan

on running 16inch wheel w/tire, I'm guessing about 19-20inchs. Gear ratio

whatevers in the r200 I just picked up, havent had a chance to open her up. I'm going to stay w/327 dis.

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most of your engines hp potentials in the heads and cam combo so thats where the moneys spent,get the compression ratio close to 10.5:1 and the quench/squish distance close to .040, that may require decking the block or new pistons , which is a good idea if your not running FORGED now, as qustions about the combustion chamber options at brodix,

http://www.brodix.com/

 

you could get cheap, but youll have a hard time beating the power

 

Basic kit $1770

PART #158-9991007

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=26161

 

carb $499

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=28293&searchItemId=320561

 

 

 

Brodix Race Rite 180 Straight Plug Combo

 

158-9991007

Kit Includes:

• Complete Race Rite Heads

• Intake

• Valve Covers

• Head Gaskets

• Intake Gaskets

• Exhaust Gaskets

• Carburetor Gaskets

• Valve Cover Gaskets

• Head Bolts & Washers

• Intake Bolts

• Spark Plugs

• Brodix Hat

 

Lifters $119

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL

 

cam $119

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ERS%2DE110721&N=700+4294925232+4294924497+400247+115&autoview=sku

 

http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf

 

rockers $299

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ERS%2DE928003&N=700+4294925232+4294924497+400247+4294839887+115&autoview=sku

 

 

your looking at a basic kick butt street combo once you add the headers youll need on that car, with its manual trans, Id strongly suggest a 3.73-4.11 rear gear, its the LITTLE STUFF THAT ADDS UP OR GETS IGNORED so I tried to use a KIT that includes most of that stuff

totals at $2808, youll need shorty headers , and a non-restrictive exhaust so, your looking at about $3000, but all good quality matched parts that will allow you to BUZZ that 327...it will idle with a pronounced lope and have less than ideal street manors but launch at 2800rpm and hold on , it will zip up to about 6500 almost faster than you can shift, with a 4.11:1 rear gear and slicks/suspension

personally Id go with a fairly heavy 30 lb steel flywheel and blow proof clutch and bellhousing

 

 

many 327s were small rod journals so if you need connecting rods BE SURE you order the correct length/dia rod

 

If you need to get into the short block,youll want to assemble the short block with getting a 10.3-10.5:1 cpr and a set of 6" aftermarket rods and keep the quench/squish at about .040

 

pistons

http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=details&P_id=378

 

 

rods

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...ategoryId=10239

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