tannji Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 At long last I am getting back into my dusty project. My 240 left the road with a fuel pump power short and related damage to the ECU. I havent checked as to whether the replacement ECU is also damaged... as I am going to MS&S the car to gain the basic familiarity I need before I start taking my hybrid in a completely different direction. I have most of the EDIS parts I want sourced already... but I need some trigger-wheel input. I have seen the trigger wheel mounted either behind the main pulley, or on the balancer... any idea as to the diameter of the crank at that point, and is mounting in-line behind the pulley safer or better than mounting to the balancer? I have a pulley pulling set... and I imagine the trigger wheel is mounted with a key, does the keyway on the crank-end go all the way back to the seal/bearing? (allowing me to use it for the trigger wheel, obviously) Lastly, do I need to go and have the balance of the trigger wheel checked before I install it? I have a Ford EDIS8 module, 2 EDIS4 coil packs, and will have the sensor soon, as it may come with the trigger wheel, depending on who I get that from. I can not physically get to the car atm, or I would just pull the pulley and put a caliper on it. (lazy, but not terminally so = ) I am not running one of the more common setups apparently (TPI) but if anyone in interested I could take pics and take notes as I progress... was considering this for the MS&S forums anyway.... tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 I have been searching... Does 2.45 inches sound correct for crank diameter? I found references to all SBC cranks being 2.45 inches since the late 60's... I am hoping that refers to the portion that mounts the balancer and pulley. tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 I hope you find out, this is the route I was hoping to go with my SBC project that I haven't started yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 LOL... I might have to start a new thread, I think having MS&S in the title scared the people we need away, like Grumpy or DR. Hunt. I will just measure it soon if nothing else... just impatient because I wanted to have as much of the small stuff pieced together as I could before I dig the car out of its tomb. I am surprised at how (relatively) cheap this should be... outside of the MS purchase, everything else to get the engine running is nickel and dime stuff... assuming you are starting from a complete engine to start with. I am also keeping my eye out for the right vehicle to show up in my local pickNpull... I should be able to get the new engine and tranny (not V8 = ) for under $400... and they run a wheelbarrow special there, all you can load on the barrow for $70. The guy that told me about it apparently got away with loading his barrow, then laying a hood upside down on it and loading THAT as well . Possibly my best score so far was a P4 laptop for $100... just needs a new motherboard and I am good to go. tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Well, the motor I'll probably be getting was a carbureted 350, mostly stock, that I'll have to convert to TPI. Is the 305 stuff the same, or do I need to find a TPI 350 to get the manifold and injectors from? Unfortunately for me, this engine was automatic before, so I'll have to find a manual trans and flywheel/clutch as well. I'm still waiting for my JTR manual before I see what all I need to get. I figured outside of the mount kit, as long as I'm junkyard shopping I should be able to come out alright as far as pricing, but I'll need to come up with a list of models that I should look for to get the parts I need. BRAAP did something like what you are going through to an L28, he may know some tricks about how to mount the trigger wheel. Any particular reason you can't mount it to where the distributor used to be, or find a distributor that works like the ZXT unit with a built in wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 Well.... keep in mind that I am NOT a great source, but as far as I know, you can use a TPI setup on either 350 or 305, as long as they are the same gen engine. TPI came on both blocks. Depending on your time-frame, you might want my setup.... = ) I am only Squirting it for the experience, then I am starting the 2RZ swap, so I will be getting rid of the engine, tranny, harness, ect. It has the 700r4 tho = ( As for the Distributor... that crossed my mind briefly, but I think when all is said and done, the trigger wheel on the crank is simpler and cheaper, and I am looking to get it running, get some experience tuning it, and then getting out of it. Long-term, I want to use a sensor in the tranny, using a machined flywheel, or magnets recessed in the flywheel. I am suffering from major envy of what some of our SR20DET owners have done, and how clean their installs and overall cars are, and I would like to keep my install and hardware clean with that in mind. tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113165&highlight=edis http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112161&highlight=edis your setup is sounding pretty interesting, but I'm in NO hurry, and this guy that has the engine is a good buddy of mine (I'll be the best man at his wedding in a few months) that is a bit more local, so I'm hoping to get a good deal on his engine. Those two threads are pretty detailed setups with pics on how to get the EDIS-6 to work on an L28. Maybe those ideas will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Well.... keep in mind that I am NOT a great source, but as far as I know, you can use a TPI setup on either 350 or 305, as long as they are the same gen engine. TPI came on both blocks. Depending on your time-frame, you might want my setup.... = ) I am only Squirting it for the experience, then I am starting the 2RZ swap, so I will be getting rid of the engine, tranny, harness, ect. It has the 700r4 tho = (As for the Distributor... that crossed my mind briefly, but I think when all is said and done, the trigger wheel on the crank is simpler and cheaper, and I am looking to get it running, get some experience tuning it, and then getting out of it. Long-term, I want to use a sensor in the tranny, using a machined flywheel, or magnets recessed in the flywheel. I am suffering from major envy of what some of our SR20DET owners have done, and how clean their installs and overall cars are, and I would like to keep my install and hardware clean with that in mind. tannji There is some good info at this link on the differences from F & Y body TPI setups and the changes over the years of the TPI. http://sethirdgen.org/tpi1.htm As far as a sensor at the tranny, Jeep Cherokee's use a crankshaft position sensor that bolts the magnetic pickup on the bellhousing with the magnet sitting just off the lip on the flexplate. Holes every couple of inches with solid areas every so often (or maybe just 1 spot similar to an edis 36-1 wheel). Other manufacturers may do it better, but the jeep setup may be adaptable to an SBC easier than others. Here's a pic of the Jeep flexplate A pic of the sensor And here is where it mounts on the tranny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 Nice info on the Jeep setup.... I think I would definitely look into that if I were keeping the 350, or going auto on the 2RZ. I book-marked the TPI site, that looked to have good reference material for sure = ) I think I have a handle on how to setup the EDIS, and I have most of the parts now as well... just need to order the triggerwheel, might go ahead and have them machine it while I am at it. That would leave me with machining the pulley to make room for the triggerwheel... fabbing a bracket for the sensor, and then getting elbow deep into setting up tables in Megasquirt. Cant wait. tannji Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 This may not be the most convenient point to resurrect the subject, but... ...what is the latest in our collective wisdom on distributorless ignition systems for old-school (Gen I SBC or Mark IV BBC) V8 Chevy engines originally equipped with points or HEI? By that I mean: 1. What are the current best options for junkyard solutions (Ford EDIS?)? 2. Other than stand-alone complete engine management systems, what are the aftermarket ignition-only options? 3. Pros and cons of DIS vs. the more common distributor-based solution of ignition box + magnetic/optical distributor (MSD, Crane, Summit house-brand, etc.)? Cursory perusal of distributorless ignition threads reveals that the vast, vast majority of the content is for L6 or other Nissan engines, or TBI/TPI. Has anyone successfully done a carbureted SBC/BBC with DIS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.