EvilC Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Hey guys I tried to search for an answer and didnt come up with anything. I want to know if all the int plastic from a late 260z will fit my 73 240z. I am guess it being the late model 260 that is would be close to the 280z, but thought I ask first before I buy this car. If it doesn't fit...the car will be heading to Ebay. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Nobody knows? I was curious if that pimptacular quilted vinyl that comes in the 240z would work on my 280... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 probably, with a little work. On my last 240 I put all 280 plastic in the hatch. The only real difference was the qtr panel trim left about a 2x3" area exposed on each side, I put a brace across the area and it worked well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 There's a 240 interior kit for sale and I'd like to know if it'll fit my 260... I don't know if it's an early or late '74. So... once EvilC's question is answered, so is mine:mrgreen: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 There's a 240 interior kit for sale and I'd like to know if it'll fit my 260... I don't know if it's an early or late '74. So... once EvilC's question is answered, so is mine:mrgreen: I saw that on Ebay, if it doesn't fit i am just gonna Ebay the car! Hope some one knows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 I put a hybrid 260/280 interior, including all the plastic trim pieces around the cockpit and the door panels, into a '72 - the original being orange-red and in rough shape, the newer black and in good condition. The newer pieces are quite a bit heavier moldings but nevertheless fit well. Two exceptions: first, the area above the suspension arches has a cut-out for the shoulder belt inertia reel. Though I haven't done it yet, a simple flat plastic panel could fill the area neatly. Second, the openings for interior door fittings are in slightly different positions - the window crank and door opener are slightly aft and upward respectively. The armrests are of course entirely different, being of a different design, so none of the holes line up to anything in the 240 door, but you can use the newer style armrests and just get crazy with a drill and jigsaw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Ok this helps......I just need from the seats and back for my car. flames_187 will be using the door panels and such. I can't believe I broke all of my plastics when I was taking the int apart....I didn't/don't know the proper way to pull them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 I didn't think the door panels would swap over, but what do I know? I've been so wrong on a number of things I'm beginning to doubt what I think I know. So, let us know if they swap over. I believe they do not. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Dave, they will swap over, sort of. The various pieces are all in *slightly* different positions. I.E., the 280 window crank opening is about 1" aft of the 240 position. Most of the original opening is covered by the circular base of the crank, but a bit of it peeks out from under. My solution: a circular plastic piece that snugs tightly onto the shaft, covering the 1/4" gap. The door opener close-out (the little well the handle is in) is off by about 1/4", upward and aft. Similar solution, but made of aluminum sheet painted black. Not visible unless you're looking for it. The armrest is a different story. As I recall, *one* of the screw-holes correspond to the 240 panel, though all the old holes are hidden. I just drilled openings in the panel with a 1/2" hole saw, marked the sheetmetal underneath, then drilled two holes for both: a 1/4" one for the screw to pass through, then a larger 1/2" hole immediately next to it; I dropped a self-capturing speed nut from the larger hole to the smaller and used a self-tapping style screw to fasten. Finito! The door-lock is also in a different position - I believe it's 1" or so forward. I just got manly with the connecting shaft to line it up, but it was necessary to cut a hole in the top of the door frame for it to pass through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Dave, they will swap over, sort of. The various pieces are all in *slightly* different positions. I.E., the 280 window crank opening is about 1" aft of the 240 position. Thanks, Scott. I had to read your post above again and it became more clear the second time around. Most of the original opening is covered by the circular base of the crank, but a bit of it peeks out from under. My solution: a circular plastic piece that snugs tightly onto the shaft, covering the 1/4" gap. The door opener close-out (the little well the handle is in) is off by about 1/4", upward and aft. Similar solution, but made of aluminum sheet painted black. Not visible unless you're looking for it. This is an elegant solution that will really work. I'm positive this is the way to go. Thanks for posting that information because I can easily picture this working very well. The armrest is a different story. As I recall, *one* of the screw-holes correspond to the 240 panel, though all the old holes are hidden. I just drilled openings in the panel with a 1/2" hole saw, marked the sheetmetal underneath, then drilled two holes for both: a 1/4" one for the screw to pass through, then a larger 1/2" hole immediately next to it; I dropped a self-capturing speed nut from the larger hole to the smaller and used a self-tapping style screw to fasten. Finito! I'll have to look at the armrest again to see how this works. I just need the parts there to 'see' it come together. The door-lock is also in a different position - I believe it's 1" or so forward. I just got manly with the connecting shaft to line it up, but it was necessary to cut a hole in the top of the door frame for it to pass through. That is self explanatory and I can see this being a necessity. I'm sure it wasn't such a big deal and it should work great too. Thanks again for the info, Scott. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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