rytherwr Posted October 8, 2006 Author Share Posted October 8, 2006 Hey Mike...great info and I thank you muchly for weighing in. Those are some nice 60 ft times with the little motor. My converter is a 10 inch and I intend to try the leave like you and JT are talking about next time I get to the track. Appreciate the support Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Jap Tin is correct, I get much bigger wheelies when I leave from an idle. Hits harder, that is for sure. RPM it flashes too? I don't have a clue, I can't be watching the tach when I can't see the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Converter tech has improved drastically. A few years ago, a 3500 rpm converter was usually a 10 or 11" unit and it would flash to over 3500 but would "feel" loose at lower rpms. It felt loose because it was much less efficient. Modern converters typically use a smaller diameter. Nowadays most 3500 rpm converters would be built on a 9.5" core, some on a 10" and are much more efficient. A smaller converter can have a better fin angle/stato combo and that makes it more efficient. There are limits, as in some very powerful combos if the converter diameter becomes too small it will "drive-through" or overpower the converter and it will never achieve "stall". A well built 9.5" unit would be a great street converter in a lightweight Z car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHAI Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I thought that foot braking would be better off the line, because you are already at the power band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I thought that foot braking would be better off the line, because you are already at the power band. Every setup is different but when footbraking it is usually best to bring rpm up enough so that the motor will launch with no hesitation or bog, but not bring it up anymore than necessary. When you launch, you go from a slightly elevated idle, to converter flash by matting the go pedal. This way the motor is accelerating rapidly, when it reaches the stall speed, then the converter initiates input shaft movement (which causes even higher stall, called flash stall) and the suspension and tires are "shock" loaded resulting in better traction. Again it all depends on the combo. Think of launching this way as similar to a neutral drop. A transbrake achieves the same thing but the motor is already at the rpm and on the floor, with the suspension and tires not loaded, when the brake is released, it will hit the tires and suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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