karl Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Sorry for starting a new thread, but I've looked for the answer and can't find. I've had a vibration that seems to be coming from the trans-tunnel at 70mph or more. I have changed the trans. mount the drive shaft, new u-joints with rebalance, changed half-shafts, diff. mount, second 1983 5speed trans. first one blew a bearing, new wheels and tires but the vibration continues!! I drive approx. 4000 miles a month and have been for two and a half years with three more months to go but the vibration is getting excruciating at this point, plus I got a $200 ticket this weekend!!!that could have almost bought my Q45 axles! My car is a 1971 built in 70 Z and I read in here that they had a vib. problem, so I bought a 280z mustache bar to move the diff. back into a better position, will I have to buy a different drive shaft/diff. mount/etc. and will this work. Please for my sanity help me. I do not want to spend much more money as I'll be starting my 7MGTE/Q45 swap next spring plus that ^%#% ticket. Thanks Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Hey Karl, To move the differential back to the later ('72 on) position you will need a later R180 mustache bar and a curved rear suspension crossmember. If the 280 bar you have is for an R200 you will need to re-drill it (a big pain, it's spring steel) to mount your R180 or just get an R200 diff. You will want to anyways after you swap in a stronger motor. The rear crossmember you have now is straight and it will interfere with the relocated diff. For the front diff mount you just spin it around 180* and bolt it up. That help? Edit: Yes, you will need a longer drive shaft from a later car. Hit the local Pic-n-Pull. You should be able to gather all the parts for less than the cost of your ticket. Slow down buddy, save money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 Thanks Dan, I found a 260z at a pick and pull. It should have the correct mustache bar and rear diff. mount. I'll pick it up this weekend, stuff there is cheap. Do you know if my drive shaft will be the correct length with the 1983 5speed and the relocated diff? Thank you again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 Thanks Dan for the drive shaft info, Yes 84mph in a 65 zone on a four lane hwy in the middle of nowhere was still to fast to be traveling on a 6 hour trip. I'll do my risk assessment and pick my battles more appropriately in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 My 71 built in 70 did not have a vibration problem with the stock stuff. I did do the R200 swap and swear it made the car handle better in hard turns. But never did vibrate either before or after. Worthwhile upgrade never the less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 Thanks Dan, I replaced all the parts this weekend and It completly fixed the vibration problem. Again thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo6inKY Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Reviving, seems like the best place for this question. I've just set my differential back using a '72 curved mustache bar and the '72 curved rear lower control arm (LCA) crossmember. I flipped the front mount around 180 degrees, and it all bolted up... except for the strap that goes over the differential to keep the nose from popping up and tearing the bottom mount. It now passes directly over the nuts that secure the front diff mount, and is not long enough to make it over to the other side. What is the solution for that strap? There's no obvious way to unbolt the mounts and shift them backwards. Did those of you who have already done this swap just run without the strap? Solid front diff mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 I was able to slide the strap to the rear of the bolts. The strap is tight against the diff but it did fit. Or, you can make/buy a Ron Tyler style diff mount. Search for it and you will see it takes the place of the strap. Pretty self explainitory. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 My car never had the strap. Best solution is to replace the strap with either a Ron Tyle type diff mount, or do any one of the low buck solutions to run a catch underneath the cross member. Look for stickies (I think) in the drivetrain section. The stock isolator is a poor design and can be readily improved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo6inKY Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Awesome. Found Roostmonkey's thread where he's selling the RT mounts and PM'd him. I'll just slide the strap behind the bolts until I get that mount in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Karl, I sent you an email in regards to the straight 240 transverse link that you swapped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.