Well, I just joined the 'I popped a Core Plug' Club...

[cygnusx1]

If any, strap in the ones that are difficult to get too. Leave one of the easy ones alone. This way you still have the "safety" feature in an easy to reach spot.

 

Another thing you could do is to weld a bung into one of them and add a pressure relief valve rated for like 20-40psi.

[mom'sZ]

If any, strap in the ones that are difficult to get too. Leave one of the easy ones alone. This way you still have the "safety" feature in an easy to reach spot.

cygnusx1: Killer good idea!!! (why didn't I think of it) that really is bright.

only problem is the ones in the bellhousing area would require tranny removal, same for timing chain one. Practical at rebuild time, put difficult in a running car.

Another thing you could do is to weld a bung into one of them and add a pressure relief valve rated for like 20-40psi.

It was also suggested (in the other thread?) to put a sensor in one and log pressure. I thought that was a little over kill at that time. But short of a tear down, it would provide clues. Wouldn't have to be welded in either, drill and bolt in. But I have a brand new Innovate DL-32 so...

[Mr.INSANE]

I may sound like an idiot but whats stopping you guys from just welding them in? they serve no purpose other than for casting.

[spork]

I may sound like an idiot but whats stopping you guys from just welding them in? they serve no purpose other than for casting.

 

They are also very nice to have out when rebuilding the engine as you're more likely to get the block cleaned up when hot tanking.

 

I've been following both of these threads now as I've been curious as to the outcome. I honestly have to agree with paul on this one. I can't see the block flexing and I think there are more problems going on here than what we can see. I use basically the same procedure described above for installing core plugs and have never had one come out. No staking, straps, or screws. 30 pounds of boost, with a HKS gasket and arp head studs with 600+ hp at the crank...if it was block flex or something like that, I'd imagine I would've run into it at this point. I think there is a good chance the coolant system is getting pressurized here for some reason or another.

[Guest 280ZForce]

I believe I already knew of my problem before it happened. The jackass who machined the block out, didn't level out the block surface, so it is a little uneven mostly towards the back cylinders around 5 and 6. Which I just found out a few weeks ago by removal of the head to see what was going on. So even w/ a HKS 2mm metal HG and some good torque on arp bolts, at high boost levels it seeps coolant throw the uneven portion of it under high pressure.

 

So when I have time, I get to have the fun of a tear down just to have the block surfaced leveled out.