JSM Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 I'm upgrading to an aluminum radiator from Jags that run and replacing the mech. fan w/ an electric. Can you guys tell me where you got your Electric fan control unit from? What brand? Is your temp adjustable? Or are you using Megasquirt to control the fan? This is for a 73 NA w/carbs. And what electric fan did you find that fit best from the Junk yard? Model of car. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 I had a flexalite controller (has a thermostat inside the radiator, and a knob to adjust setpoint) before I went to SDS, now the ECU controls the fan. I used a flexalite fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Ok, Flexalite controllers work good as do Flow Tech which is an Auto Zone brand and the fans that are commonly used are from a Ford Taurus. Please get rid of the tilda (~) marks in the title of your first post. Things like that make the search function useless when someone else is looking for this information. Also, this has been covered before so you might want to try it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Spal make an AWESOME unit, has a little sending unit yo screw into the thermostat housing that grounds the cricuit at the desired temp. Comes with super nice wireing, relay etc. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 13, 2006 Author Share Posted November 13, 2006 Where do you buy Spal and Flexlite controlers? The one I picked up from Autozone did not have a tempature adjustment screw. It was 24.99. Pepboys had one which had a screw adjustable from 160-210 but was 44.99. I did search on the fan but didn't find anything about the controler. I was curious to what other folks had installed. Thanks! Tried to remove the ~~ to no avail. Even in advance mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlydrvsnissan Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 i got one of these not as clean but it does the job http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000903/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2000903/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=themostat+switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 Search for electric fans and the ninth post down is title "what are you using to control your electric fan?" There's even more under that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 13, 2006 Share Posted November 13, 2006 I just ordered two of these reversible fans. I verified with the tech department that the outer diameter is less than 14.25 inches, so these will just fit. Orientation is side-by-side, of course. The specs indicate a total of up to 5900 CFM. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D19113&N=700+4294924500+4294839058+4294838842+4294891681+4294775279+4294902510+4294792784+115&autoview=sku Forgot to list the controller... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D18907&N=700+400006+4294924500+4294860934+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 I went with a Hayden adjustable controller from Checker. The first one had issues but the replacement has been great. I installed the temp sensor in the fitting where the coolant would normally flow to preheat the SU carbs. Just had to find a brass bushing to adapt it. I think you may find that if you still have the L6 that there isn't much room in front of the water pump for a thick fan. I had hoped to use the Taurus fan but it's too thick. I am using a 4 core MSA radiator which takes up some clearance. I also have the AC condenser up front which doesn't help airflow. In the end I went with 2 x 10" fans side by side. It's just got enough capacity to idle in traffic on 85 degree days. I may swap to 2 x 12" this summer. Nice thing is that the fans are only 2 1/2" deep. Side note 1: I was pleasantly surprised how much quieter things were without the mechanical fan. I know my clutch was disengaging properly as I could stick a rolled up newspaper in the blades and stop it at idle. But once it was off the car, it was much quieter. Not a reason to do the swap, but a nice benefit. Side note 2: I still have the Taurus fan in case anyone needs one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 i slightly modified cozy's plans. i used a 180 degree fan switch and a 203 degree fan switch. one on the water pump, other on manifold. this is on my scarab z car. same concept will work on the L6. fan control switches are available on ebay. cozy's set up works great. fully automatic, no idiot switches inside the car. there is another set up posted on the web, turns fan on at low rpms, off at high with an override when temps reach 200. cool but more work than i wanted to do. if schematics don't show, go do a search in the chevy v8 section of here. look under cozycole or taurus fan. good luck, wayne from cozy cole. The two diagrams above show how to build and wire an auto relay switched 2-speed FORD TAURUS fan. Parts needed......10 guage wire for the power circuit. 18 guage wire for the control cicuit. Three relays..... 1) High speed relay, Tyco VF7-12V,70amps 2)Low speed relay and Aux relay, standard BOSCH relays Two switches,,,,.1)Low speed temp. switch- Adj. Flexilite, FLX-31147 from SUMMIT. 2)High speed temp. switch from Standard Motor Products, TS-158 or TS-392. I put the adj. low speed switch and the three relays in seperate relay boxes and mounted them in the engine comp. The high speed temp switch I mounted where one of the heater hoses went. Est. cost of parts, less the fan, is $50.00 . 10 guage wire is used in the power circuit and 18 guage in the control circuit. The 12V switched control circuit can be connected to any live connection with ignition on. The control circuit shown is as follows..... When the temp. reaches your set low speed figure, let's say 190 deg.the low speed relay is energized thru pin 86, 85 connects to 87A of the AUX relay and pulls 30 of that relay, 87 of the low speed relay and 30 are closed sending power to the fan to run at low speed. When the temp. reaches your high speed switch figure, let's say 210 deg. pin 86 of the AUX. relay energizes thru 85 and 30 releases from 87A of the low speed relay and connects with 85 of the high speed relay which thru 87 of that relay powers the fan to run at high speed. ARE we confused yet????? When the temp falls below the high speed swich figure the AUX relay will switch back to the low speed relay. Therfore low and high speeds will never be on at the same time and you will have the following conditions... 1) No fan on. 2) Low speed on. 3) High speed on. This set-up has worked great since installation of it and I fought heat problems for a year because of my blower set-up before this change and NO in dash switches......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 This controller looks pretty good... variable speed, high current.... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D33054&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 You can get that controller much cheaper at an autoparts store. The one I bought was identical to that one except it was branded Flow-Tech and it was on $69 in a kit with all wiring and the through radiator pull ties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 naviathan... That's an excellent price. Are you sure the one you bought is the high-current model? I believe the smaller one can handle 30 amps while the larger model is 60 amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 For controling the fan, which wire is best to connect into for the ignition? 73 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 For controling the fan, which wire is best to connect into for the ignition? Anything that is hot in "ON & RUN" positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 IMO you should connect the fan to a constant hot off the battery. When you shut the engine down it's good to keep the fan running to help the water cool better and keep the convection currents flowing. Otherwise when you shutdown (yes I realize the stock system is like this) the engine continues to heat the water until it reaches a certant point then cools down. This has actually caused a problem for me when I was traveling. The engine would get too hot when I would stop for gas and it wouldn't restart when I got back in until it cooled down some. Just a thought. If your battery is good it should be able to take the fan running for a few minutes after shutdown. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 It had two fan leads for operating dual fans and a 60A rated fuse so I would assume so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 ...This has actually caused a problem for me when I was traveling. The engine would get too hot when I would stop for gas and it wouldn't restart when I got back in until it cooled down some... That is why I put a HOT at ON position on top of being hot in RUN so you can leave the key at ON while you're refueling and sutch. But,what you said is entirerly true. I wonder if some kind of timer could be wired in to keep it running for let's say 5 min. after shut down, as I don't like wiring things straight from the batt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Hmmm, yeah that would be cool. A timer with a switched and hot lead that triggers when the switched is dropped and it starts it's countdown then kills the output. That would be pretty cool. To keep the circuit simple and not pull a lot of power through it you could use a relay to make the connection to the fan, but trigger it with the timer. I could come up with something like that. Wouldn't be hard, other than figuring the timer circuit, but I think my Master Handbook or 1001 circuits has a design for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 I agree... and if you have an electric H2O pump, that should be wired to constant hot too, IMO. This runs the complete cooling system after shut-down. Just make sure your battery is in good shape:wink: IMO you should connect the fan to a constant hot off the battery. When you shut the engine down it's good to keep the fan running to help the water cool better and keep the convection currents flowing. Otherwise when you shutdown (yes I realize the stock system is like this) the engine continues to heat the water until it reaches a certant point then cools down. This has actually caused a problem for me when I was traveling. The engine would get too hot when I would stop for gas and it wouldn't restart when I got back in until it cooled down some. Just a thought. If your battery is good it should be able to take the fan running for a few minutes after shutdown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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