Guest d3c0y z3d Posted December 10, 2006 Share Posted December 10, 2006 Well anyway i was reading this thread the other night and i thought i would check out what sort of cams i had in vairous heads i had lying around the garage. I have an 05L head from an L20ET and it has a 'D' cam in it and it's not in the list of stock cams that the link pointed to. Anyone had any experience with these cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper5177 Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 I believe that is the cam Tony D was talking about. It's got a longer duration than any of the ones on the table. I don't know the exact specs on it but I'm sure Tony does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest d3c0y z3d Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I would think that the L20A's cam would be different. The L20A is a carbourated N/A 2.0L and the one i have is an EFI Turbo 2.0L (L20ET) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper5177 Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 My bad...I should read more thoroughly instead of scanning sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordieggg Posted January 22, 2007 Author Share Posted January 22, 2007 Well, after all this time, I finally got my A into G and got a cam reground here in NZ. So what are the general opinions, considering it's (I'm assuming) a stock head? Should make a considerable difference? The only things I'm concerned about are, on the back of the card, it tells me I must not use a synthetic oil during break-in, and that some synthetic oilsmust never be used with hard welded cams? Also, is it possible to change the rockers and lash pads (when setting up the valve-train) without removing the cam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 What are the specs on the cam you had ground? Hard for us to say if it will make a difference without knowing that. If it's big enough to make a difference, then it will make a difference. If it is really tiny like a Schneider stage 1 you might not notice any difference at all. You can swap out the lash pads with the cam in place. What you do is loosen up the adjuster, remove the mousetrap springs, turn the cam so the lobe is away from the rocker, then pry the rocker off to one side and pop it off the ball end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordieggg Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 What are the specs on the cam you had ground? I put a copy of the cam card on my previous post, if the links not working let me know and I'll try it another way. You can swap out the lash pads with the cam in place. What you do is loosen up the adjuster, remove the mousetrap springs, turn the cam so the lobe is away from the rocker, then pry the rocker off to one side and pop it off the ball end. Cool, thanks. I'm thinking that, because I'm changing the cam towers as well (for the spray bar) I can get the towers & cam in and lined up so there's no binding, then fit the rockers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 I'm not seeing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordieggg Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 Cam lift 0.305" for intake & exhaust Valve lift (net) 0.451" for intake & exhaust Duration @ 0.050" 224 for intake & exhaust Centreline @ peak lift 105° ATDC for intake, 114° BTDC for exhaust Now, cam timing @0.050" lift, intake opens 6° BTDC, closes 38° ABDC, exhaust opens 46° BBDC and exhaust closes 2° BTDC. Hope that all makes sense to someone out there!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordieggg Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 The only things I'm concerned about are, on the back of the card, it tells me I must not use a synthetic oil during break-in, and that some synthetic oils must never be used with hard welded cams? Sorry if I come across as sounding pushy, but need to have the car running for the track on Sunday and this is the biggest thing I'm worried about at the moment. Can anyone shed some light on this? You can swap out the lash pads with the cam in place. What you do is loosen up the adjuster, remove the mousetrap springs, turn the cam so the lobe is away from the rocker, then pry the rocker off to one side and pop it off the ball end. Brilliant, had a go at this last night, even manged to get some of the rockers back in, so myplan should work fine. Thanks for the great info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveosupremeo Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 i know this is an older thread but I have a carbed L20A and from what I can tell the cam is stamped "L". its a 1974 model fairlady. Does ANYONE know the specs on this cam?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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