HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I am planning a stroker build as anyone knows that has seen my other thread but have some questions. All the good kits are using H-beam rods, but I understand that these are larger than the I-beams and may require more clearancing and also may make me buy a smaller base cam. Is this true and should I be concerned with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 Most machine shops can clearence the block for you. They will do a trial fit. If they have done that stroker kit before then they know what and where to clearence. If you use an aftermarket block then the clearencing is usually already done. Sometimes you can find a kit usually based on a 6" rod and the piston pin location is higher up on the piston, and the stroke on the crank is where the stroke comes in. By the way I have a used set of Childs and Albert steel I-Beam rods that I will sell resonable. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 What about the cam clearance? Should I expect a problem there with the H beams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608 take the time to read thru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1527608&an=0&page=0#Post1527608 take the time to read thru Nice article Grumpy, I read it all but have not read all the links yet. My specific question is will the I-beam rods give me "less" clearance problems than the H-beams"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 it varies a great deal between manufacturers but generally (H) rods with CAP SCREW BOLTS have MORE clearance than (I) rods and are easier to clearance, in any case its just not that hard to do! keep in mind cam lobe clearance is harder to get than block clearance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I have to disagree with grumpy here, an I-beam with capscrews seems to clear better than an H-beam rod. The Scat brand I-beam 7/16" capscrew rods seem to work very well in the SBC builds for cam clearance. I clearanced a BBC last weekend for a 4.250 crank and it used H-beam rods, although on a BBC the cam to rod clearance isn't usually an issue, I had to do more grinding on the block than other 496 combos I've done. Using I beam rods most 4.250 stroke BBCs (using a 454 block) will "usually" require NO clearancing on the block. Edited to add disclaimer "usually". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 I would like to avoid the .900 base cam if possible, from a brief glance, they seem to cost quite a bit more. Am buried at work today so I haven't had time to do much research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 OK guys, I know this is all about opinions but that is what I am looking for. I am bouncing back in forth between what stroker kit to go with. These guys have two kits, both internal balanced with forged pistons. One has a 4340 forged crank with H beam rods, for around $1650 balanced and delivered, the other is an eagle cast crank with I beam rods for about $1100 balanced and delivered. Basing on my 2 bolt main block and my intended street use with just a mild chance of ever seeing a little NOS. Would the cheaper kit probably meet or exceed my needs or is it worth the extra $ in my case to get the forged crank etc. Also, is the any performance gain with the higher dollar kit (lighter crank etc) or is it all for strength. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-383-STROKER-KIT-Internal-Balance-6-rods-NICE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQihZ020QQitemZ300064541513QQtcZphoto http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lightweight-SBC-Rotating-Assembly-Small-Block-Chevy-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33623QQihZ020QQitemZ300009086173QQtcZphoto Thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuntry Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 I have the cast crank and I-beam rod kit in my motor. It DID require the block to be clearanced. Its a great kit, but looking back I really wish I had went ahead with the forged/H-beam kit. It all depends on what you think you might want someday. The cast crank setup is good for 500 hp, and the hypereutetic pistons wont hold much nitrous (about 125 shot is what Ive been told). If you think thats more than youll ever need or want, it will save you a few hundred bucks. But if your like most of us on here... when is it ever enough hp???? IMO, the forged kit is the way to go, just from my personal experience. No matter what I build next, it WILL have the good stuff in it. Even if it does take me a little longer to save to get it, its going to be worth it in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 I have the cast crank and I-beam rod kit in my motor. It DID require the block to be clearanced. Its a great kit, but looking back I really wish I had went ahead with the forged/H-beam kit. It all depends on what you think you might want someday. The cast crank setup is good for 500 hp, and the hypereutetic pistons wont hold much nitrous (about 125 shot is what Ive been told). If you think thats more than youll ever need or want, it will save you a few hundred bucks. But if your like most of us on here... when is it ever enough hp???? IMO, the forged kit is the way to go, just from my personal experience. No matter what I build next, it WILL have the good stuff in it. Even if it does take me a little longer to save to get it, its going to be worth it in the end. This kit comes with forged pistons not hypers, but I get your point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 think of it this way if you buy the cast/hyper deal youve WASTED $1200 PLUS, AND youll need to spend an additional $1700,-1900 PLUS, the gaskets and machine shop costs if you ever want to upgrade, if you buy the forged set up you spent about $400 more than you wanted to but youll never need to upgrade spend $450 or $3000???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 think of it this way if you buy the cast/hyper deal youve WASTED $1200 PLUS, AND youll need to spend an additional $1700,-1900 PLUS, the gaskets and machine shop costs if you ever want to upgrade, if you buy the forged set up you spent about $400 more than you wanted to but youll never need to upgrade spend $450 or $3000???? So Grumpy, just to make sure I understand, you think I should buy the better kit? You're kinda ridin the fence. Just kidding, I get the feeling that if you could reach thru the computer you would be vigurously shaking me back and forth yelling "spend the freaking money" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I have to agree with grumpy here, I would go forged for the little additonal expense. My experience is the forged offerings from Eagle or Scat balance easier than the cast. Less heavy metal if any. So some of the additional expense of forged is actually saved when you put it on the balance machine. Another point to be made is that usually an I-beam rod is lighter on the reciprocating end than a H beam. It is better to have rotating weight than reciprocating. I would look at prices for a kit with forged crank, 7/16" capscrew I- beams, and forged pistons. I've gotten good prices from http://www.flatlanderracing.com. Most recently used CNC Motorsports for the 496 I did last week. Pictured above... If it had used I-beam rods it wouldn't have required any block clearancing, but with the H-beams it needed clearancing on the cam side of the cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 I have the cast crank and I-beam rod kit in my motor. It DID require the block to be clearanced. Its a great kit, but looking back I really wish I had went ahead with the forged/H-beam kit. Just to respond to this. I have never seen a 383 go together that didn't require any block clearancing. I have heard of a couple but have never seen it personally. No matter what rods you use, plan on clearnancing a SBC stroker motor. The issue with a SBC is cam to rod clearance. Using a Scat I-beam capscrew rod, I have been able to use regular base circle cams on 3.750 stroke combos without issue, I usually have to touch up a couple of rods for clearance but nothing major and not nearly as much grinding as using a stock 5.7 rod or most H-beams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 I have no problem with the block grinding, just trying to avoid the added expense of small base cams. I spoke the some guy at JEGS about their forged kit with the H-beams and he said that I should not have a problem with cam clearance. He also said the these assemblies are fully balanced so it should be turn-key ready to drop in. By the time I figure in the free shipping and the fact that they have it on the floor, I am leaning hard towards buying it from them. I just have to get my machine shop off center to make sure my new block is good. I have found better deals on forged stuff but nobody has it on the floor, will still need to be balanced and I would have to pay all the shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 "I get the feeling that if you could reach thru the computer you would be vigurously shaking me back and forth yelling "spend the freaking money" thats what I get for useing a cheap VOODOO DOLL,........... NEVER TRY TO USE LOW PRICE PARTS ON CRITICAL COMPONENTS your NOT getting the measage full strength if your only getting a (FEELING)...... by now you should be having SEVERAL REALLY NASTY 9 foot tall demons boncing you off the wall and ceiling and having the "spend the freaking money" in flames on the wall, if the stupid VOODOO DOLL was working correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Has anybody used the "stroker" rods some manufacturers offer? I haven't seen any, but apparently they have less material on the big end hump where it's close to the cam. I wonder if the blank is different, or if they just machine off the corner? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 "I get the feeling that if you could reach thru the computer you would be vigurously shaking me back and forth yelling "spend the freaking money" thats what I get for useing a cheap VOODOO DOLL,........... NEVER TRY TO USE LOW PRICE PARTS ON CRITICAL COMPONENTS your NOT getting the measage full strength if your only getting a (FEELING)...... by now you should be having SEVERAL REALLY NASTY 9 foot tall demons boncing you off the wall and ceiling and having the "spend the freaking money" in flames on the wall, if the stupid VOODOO DOLL was working correctly OK OK!! I will spend the freakin money!!!!! When my wife see's the bill, I'll have her call you! He He... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 Do yourself a favor and go all forged period the end. I have broken the cast cranks and it's no laughing matter. So from one who's been there done that just do yourself a favor and PLEASE buy the better forged set up!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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