HICKL Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 I keep letting my threads change course so I will re-start this one so the title makes sense. I am following grumpy's advice and calling all the cam companies and getting there input on cam choice for my new stroker build. What I'm figuring out is that my logic wants one thing and my soul wants another. Logic wants good streetable power nice mid and all that. What the experts are giving me is some pretty mild cams in the 470 lift to 230 ish duration. What my soul wants is a big lumpy cam that screams when held wide open. I also know that my sportsman II heads really seem to wake up with a bigger cam. I don't want to leave a bunch of power on the table by under caming it for driveability. My old cam in my 350 was a .490 lift 230/236 duration and it was by no means to much cam for me. I guess when it comes down to it, I don't want to short change myself in performance for the benefit of day to day driving. Where is that fine line? I'm thinking of something in a .500 lift 240 duration. Anybody got any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 I can,t see where youll go wrong with this cam WITH 1.6:1 roller rockers, it will produce some decent lope at idle and good mid-thru upper rpm range tq/hp, yes the solid lifters are an asset, yes its going to be alittle wilder than ideal, for a daily driver, but certainly its streetable and on the plus side it makes very good power, with that lope your looking for and still has SOME vacume http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 btw I ran this cam in my 1969 camaro 383 with a muncie 4 speed and 4.11 gears and went mid twelves, with street tires. now that car weighed in at 3400 lbs without a driver,so you can see some potential, and it LOVEs nitrous just be sure to check all clearances because that cam with the 1.6:1 ratio rockers has a good deal of lift and takes full advantage of the head flow, I recently built a 383 with this cam that made 470hp and with less compression than you have, and similar components bottom line IF I was building it for myself, thats the cam ID sellect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 I'm really liking the cam specs but am still scared of the solid lifters. "Everyone" is telling me that I will "constantly" be having to adjust them. Is the only real benefit at about 6000 rpm or will I see a gain anywhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 One thing that cam companies forget is that stroke swallows up lumpy cams for lunch and spits out a mild exhaust tone and gobs of power. That cam that grumpy says looks like alot on paper but IMO would be perfect. I ran a solid lifter crower 246 @ .050 and .510 lift with 110 lobe centers in my personal vehicles and it was a monster. I've found that 1.6's on the intakes and 1.5's on the exhaust have enhanced mid range TQ on some combinations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 One thing that cam companies forget is that stroke swallows up lumpy cams for lunch and spits out a mild exhaust tone and gobs of power. That cam that grumpy says looks like alot on paper but IMO would be perfect. I ran a solid lifter crower 246 @ .050 and .510 lift with 110 lobe centers in my personal vehicles and it was a monster. I've found that 1.6's on the intakes and 1.5's on the exhaust have enhanced mid range TQ on some combinations. So in your opinion, solid lifters are worth the added trouble in a street car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 can someone run a DD2000 dyno sheet on his combo with that cam? some of you guys FAR exceed my computer picture posting skills (btw ID install it 4 degrees retarded ) Ive got several killer E.A. and DD,2000 software versions but no way to post the power curve info , and a picture of the power curve would be great!! "So in your opinion, solid lifters are worth the added trouble in a street car?" HELL YES!! I run flat tappet solids in most performance applications, with carbs simply because once you get over about 235-240 degrees at .050 lift,of cam durration the solid lifters allow you an easy 500-800 extra rpm in the useful power band, its a no brainer in my opinion. below about 230 degrees durration your not running up into the valve float area in rpms so theres little to be gained useing solid lifters, as the hydrolics will run with less maintinance, but once you get good adjusting solid lifters , and see/feel the benefits, youll wonder why you took so long to switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 Will my performer RPM intake be crapping out before I get into the rpm range to benefit from the solids? I can always put the tunnel ram back on I guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 I'd prefer to see a victor Jr., you'd be suprised at how good they work with that combo! I'd bet Grumpy would agree there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 I kind of want to stick with the dual plane for now. I understand the sacrifice up top, but like the mid of the dual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1669870&an=0&page=1#Post1669870 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html read thru these, its worth your time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 As always, neat stuff, I however am well into my second Crown Royal and sprite so I can't say I soaked it all in. Will re read tomorrow. I guess the fact remains that what I will be bolting to this engine is the performer RPM that is in my garage. Partly because I know it is a good all around intake but mainly because this entire ordeal is an unexpected expenditure so I can't be buying new intakes right now. I don't mind if it is a little over cam'd for this performer because come spring time and friday night cruises, that tunnel ram will be looking pretty attractive again. Not to complicate things, I don't want to get into tunnel ram cam choices. I've been reading all day and believe I am prepared to give the solid lifter cam a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 Ok Grumpy, unless you tell me otherwise, I will be ordering the cam you picked on Monday. I think I have some "decent" push rods but don't remember exatly what they are. What level of push rod will I need for this setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 "What level of push rod will I need for this setup?" Ive always prefered the better chrome moly pushrods but MEASURE with the stock ones and use those IF THEY ARE the correct length,untill you have the money to get the better ones, CRANE and TRICKFLOW have a good sellection http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=chevy+pushrods&searchinresults=false&N=+115&y=10&x=20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 BTW buy these lifters, as they provide a little extra lube insurance http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL and heres the cam http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D114681&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 8, 2007 Author Share Posted January 8, 2007 BTW buy these lifters, as they provide a little extra lube insurance http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL and heres the cam http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D114681&N=700+115&autoview=sku Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 can someone run a DD2000 dyno sheet on his combo with that cam? some of you guys FAR exceed my computer picture posting skills (btw ID install it 4 degrees retarded ) Ive got several killer E.A. and DD,2000 software versions but no way to post the power curve info , and a picture of the power curve would be great!! " All parts are on order or in my garage, blocked is bored and honed, will griind clearance tonight. What kind or peak and avg numbers did you get on your dyno software for this setup? Thanks again for all of your help. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 since I dont know all the speciffics , like,TRUE cpr,head flow numbers,ignition, headers size, a/f ratio, ETC, Id just be making an educated guess at this point, but Id be surprised if you didn,t exceed 430hp/430 tq (flywheel) the last 383 engine I built useing that cam and trickflow heads was well above that(463hp/449tq)before it was even tunned up keep in mind I don,t build combos for max peak hp, I build for MAX average power, I think youll notice and be pleased with the results, and be a marked improvement over the previous 350. don,t fall into the metal trap of worrying about hp/tq numbers, your 383 will noticably out perform the previous 350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuntry Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 Im just curious what difference a 106 lc would make compaired to the 112 that crane advertises on this cam. DH has one with the same specs, except for the lc. Do you think it would hurt, help, or not make any difference in a stroker motor? http://www.dougherbert.com/solidcamonly-p-9727.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 your refering to this cam, in the crane version http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 the differance is the idle is noticably rougher,with the tighter LCA the power peaks about 200rpm lower in the rpm range but it makes about 5-7 hp more, thats good on a manual trans race car but a less than ideal trade on the street, mostly because that idle is already noticable and the wider LCA drives easier at low rpms like youll see far more often on the street, now if he had a 4.56:1-4.88:1 rear gear that tighter LCA would be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 your 383 will noticably out perform the previous 350[/b] I freakin hope so at 3 times the investment of my first motor!!! Can't wait to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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