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I have read that you should change the tip anytime it comes in contact with the weld pool. I usually change them whenever it seems like I am having a difficult time getting the settings right. A dirty or worn tip will cause the current to fluctuate making you think you need to adjust the volts or wire speed.

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I have read that you should change the tip anytime it comes in contact with the weld pool. I usually change them whenever it seems like I am having a difficult time getting the settings right. A dirty or worn tip will cause the current to fluctuate making you think you need to adjust the volts or wire speed.

 

i think i touched the pool a couple times, because the hole in the tip got all distorted and the wire was getting stuck on it....

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well as far as i know, most of the tips i've seen are copper, and I'd imagine that alot of the heat that reflects onto the copper has enough to make it slightly maleable.

 

wouldnt this somewhat alter the hole shape over time, and fudge up the settings on the machine due to different tolerances from when they were manufactured?

 

I'd atleast change the tip after every big welding project, or perhaps after every spool or half spool of wire.

 

They aren't that expensive, and if they can improve welds, by all means....

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yea, the tips are the business end of the welder, so i'm gonna stock up on them when I go to pick up a cylinder.

 

I was suprised today, after I changed the tip I welded a new fender onto my equipment trailer and i only had a few little burn throughs. When I get a cylinder and some .024 solid wire, will I be able to actually weld a long bead on sheetmetal (not worrying about warping)? I have to tack the whole thing with .030 flux or it burns right through. I must have layed 200 tacks today..lol

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Your flux core welds look better than my first welds, wait till you get a gas bottle, you will be amazed. Migs seem to like clean steel at lower voltage settings, try cleaning your steel alittle better, I sometimes use a scotch pad to buff up the weld area on thin gauge metal. Have fun and try not to weld everything you own together.

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I just use my angle grinder to get straight to metal, but im gonna order some of those small pads for the die grinder.

 

And yea, i've welded up all the steel I could find around the house...lol

 

I really have a deep respect for people who do auto work or metal work in general and can get pieces smooth to match without body filler. I replaced a section of a fender on my trailer and for a first time welder, and first time doing a patch it came out good, but needs alot of filler to smooth. But the guys that can fab things to look stock by hand are amazing...

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I picked up a 90cuf C25 cylinder today for $165 full. The best way to describe switching to shielding gas from flux wire is 'crisp'. Everything is better with solid wire and C25 gas. You can see the pool better, you can control penetration better, no smoke really, clean bead, thicker bead, easier to fill gaps, easier to control in every way. And the sound is alot better, lol. It's alot more crackly sound than flux has, it's great. I got so into it that I forgot about my 30% duty cycle and welded until the overload light came on, so I learned from that.

 

Just got done welding up these ramps for my trailer. I still have to put some support legs, but the angle iron use to be a tool bench that I found at the metal recycler.

 

im000791oh0.jpg

im000790wt4.jpg

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I just use my angle grinder to get straight to metal, but im gonna order some of those small pads for the die grinder.

 

And yea, i've welded up all the steel I could find around the house...lol

 

I really have a deep respect for people who do auto work or metal work in general and can get pieces smooth to match without body filler. I replaced a section of a fender on my trailer and for a first time welder, and first time doing a patch it came out good, but needs alot of filler to smooth. But the guys that can fab things to look stock by hand are amazing...

 

its because those people have patience.

 

I've seen too many ppl seam weld panels.

 

BAD BAD BAD.

 

if you have a butt joint that is 12 inches long, you should tack it about 100 times, with cooldown periods in between, and then grind them down with a weld-stone and then blend them in with more of the same process, or body solder.

 

that takes TIME. and a lot of effort.

 

people these days just tack, and fill.

 

or seam and warp/destroy (example: see previous owners work on my car)

 

Take your time, and you will be one of those people who can say they do that kind of work.

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These things in a die grinder work great at getting down to clean metal

 

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap50c.html

 

AP-50C.jpg

 

Cookie discs are some of the best things to have around. they get dull pretty quick, but man are they ever awesome.

 

You can even use them to lightly brush off old gasket material as well, if you do it evenly and lightly enough so that you barely make a swirl in the gasket face.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i've done some interesting things with it, lol. I didn't have a impact socket for the size bolt I needed to get off, so I cut one of those tire iron lug nut wreches and welded it on a 1/2" drive socket and I had the right size impact socket, lol. It comes in handy so much, i'd reccomend it to anyone.

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hahah! i blew up a 36mm socket on my impact in the middle of a tranny job. it cracked in 5 places... out came the grinder and the welder.... its more of a 38mm but it still works! haha

the best is when you cant get a broken stud out and you carefully tack and tack and tack till it builds up big enough to put vice grips on it, then it turns right out!

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