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95 LT1/T56 right transmission for a stroker? is it a deal?


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I have a chance to buy a 95 Formula with 76K miles with a T56, I just bought a steal of a deal on a 88 Trans AM with a 383 stroker motor in it.

I can get the 95 Formula complete for $2100. I am thinking I am going to run the stroker motor with the T56, keep the stock LT1 as a back up motor along with the harness,ECU and driveshaft. I will part out the est of the Firebird which needs a front bumper, passenger side fender and windshield, the driver hit a stop sign which bent over and cracked the windshield. the car runs great but the interior show it's age, it has nice wheels though. Everything worrks except the A/C which I am told needs a charge.

Looking at the prices for T56 transmissions currently running for about 1000-1600 should I buy this car, keep the LT1 and part out the rest? do you think I would make at least 900-1000 back?

Will my stroker bolt up to the T56 if I buy a 400/Stroker flywheel and use the LT1 clutch and pressure plate?

Thanks,

Greg

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I would buy that in a heartbeat. You have a complete and clean interior including all panels. You also have perfect doors, rear hatch, and hood. You;ve got one complete retractable headlight bucket and the other one looks questionable, but repairable. Don't forget the rear end, front and rear brakes, gas tank, and so many more things that are salvageable. Yeah, buy it and make a profit. Otherwise, where is it?

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The LT1 motor should bolt up to the T56 that you are looking at getting, so go for it.

 

The only problem area with GM engine tranny combos is then you try and mix and match SB3 with SB1 or SB2 parts.

 

Early GM V8's SB1 or small block 1st gen

LT1 engine (92 to 96) is an SB2 or small block 2nd gen

LS series 96 and later is an SB3 or small block 3rd gen

 

I hope this helps.

 

HB280ZT

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Thanks, But I know it's a little more complicated on the SB1 If it is Pre or Post 1986 One piece or 2 piece rear main seal, and then throw in that it is a stroker with a 400 crank.

I know the LT1 bolts up fine, it is coming in the 95 Firebird with the T56, It is the 383 stroker motor that I am not sure about. I have searched and am more confused that when I started. I know about Weir products and such from searches, but I have to determine what block I have and verify that it is a one piece rear seal with a 400 crank or a 2 piece rear seal with a 400 crank, I am hoping I can bolt up to the T56 with just buying a new balanced flywheel for the stroker motor and bolt the LT1 clutch and pressure plate on it and go.

But I am not sure and I think I have to verify what I have first before I can get the right answers?

Does this makes sense to everyone?

Thanks,

Greg

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dosent look there is any actual damage to the car, looks like just front bumper cover, hood and fender.. replace those parts and drive the car or sell it..

 

if you are hell bent on ripping that car appart, put the 383 stroker assembly in the LT1 block and have an injected LT1 stroker with a 6 speed

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There really isn't much damage, all that's needed is a new bumber assembly, a fender and a windshield. The headlight buckets work fine. There is some rodent damage to the headliner and possibly the heater vents and ducts. It is owned by a 27 year old girl who smacked it 2 years ago and is scared to death of it and won't drive it. It has sat at Daddy's house for the last 2 years and now she want's it gone. I need a T56 trans for my Stroker, Should I fix and sell it and then by a tranny or Pull all I want and part it out?

What would everybody do here????

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I'd jump on it as well. For one thing, it's a hard top, right? If so, guys over on LT1tech would be interested in it. When I bought my '95 formula firehawk I had several guys offer $700 just for the shell alone - problem with mine was that the frame was slightly tweaked. I purchased mine for right at $6k, including my cost to go retrieve it and in one summer I made all of my money back.

 

If it runs and no frame damage, don't even think twice. I agree with LS1, stroke the LT1! Thats my goal several years down the road.

 

FWIW,

 

Bryan

Dat240zg

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Thanks, SO that is 1 vote to fix and keep/sell it, and 2 votes to pull/part it out so far.

(And 2 votes to pull the internals out of the 383 stroker and put into the LT1 motor)

MAN I wish it wasn't so F@#$ing cold out right now (5 degrees this AM) so I can start pulling the motor out of the Z and the Trans Am!!!

 

I have to get my son to get rid of his truck carcass out of here so I can set up the tent/garage and put my other Z in it to make room in the Garage to put the Trans Am in to pull the motor out.

 

Now where am I going to park the Formula??? Wife is not happy with all these "temporary" my word, "junk" her word, vehicles laying around.

Any more votes???

Thanks,

Greg

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Guest turdlecharge

internals are not interchangeable, simply veiw a jegs magazine!

 

i say thats a still i would sweep that up. thats what my plan is was but i havent had any luck finding a t56 all the research i have found sez indeed that u can bolt up sb1 to at leas sb2 stuff cause all the 4l60e transmissions bolt up!

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Well it seems it is now:

2 for Fix and sell

2 for Pull and part out

1 for either way

Well I bought it and it runs great!, Weird wiper problem though, the wipers park in the up position no matter what I do. Must be something simple....

From what I have researched on this site the LT1 T-56 will bolt up to any 1986 or newer Gen 1 SBC just use the LT1 flywheel for One piece rear main seals.

For all other Gen SBC pre 1986 with two piece rear main seals I could not find a clear cut answer but will be doing research on this as I want to bolt my Stroker motor to the LT1 T-56 trans, I don't know if I have a one piece or two piece rear seal block yet but I am assuming it must be a two piece if it is a stroker with a 400 crank?? I need to but a balanced flywheel for the stroker that will take an LT1 clutch and pressure plate????? ANything else??

 

AFAIK The 1998-2002 LS1 T-56 will not bolt up to a Gen 1 SBC the bellhousing needs an adaptor plate or an LT1 bell housing or a Weir Products kit because the input shaft is longer.

 

Thanks,

Greg

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Guest turdlecharge

they also make a counter balance that bolts in between the crank and flywheel, they are pretty cool, found one at a swap meet a couple months ago for 10 buxs but they are pretty hard to find unless u buy one out right

 

email me at madmotox2001@yahoo.com and ill get u a picture of it

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