ktm Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 such as the flow guide valve and the hard line from the gas tank? Or do I still need the flow guide valve for the line from the gas tank and simply cap off the line from the carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 What is a flow guide valve? To convert a 240Z to FI, you need to increase the size of the return line to 5/16". If you are loooking for big power, replace the small stock return line with a 3/8" line, and use that for the feed. The old feed can be used for the return if you switch them back at the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 I understand the requirements for the fuel lines. I am going to use the stock feed line as the return line and plumb a new 3/8" feed. On the carbeurated cars, there is an evaporative emission control system that consists of a flow guide valve, a hard line from the gas tank, a fuel line from the air cleaner and a fuel line to the crank case. It is used for controlling fuel vapors. The flow guide valve is located on the driver side. below the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 On my 280ZX Which is FI I have an Evap canister if that helps at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 I think that line is needed to allow air into the fuel tank otherwise a vacuum would exist and not allow fuel to come out. It has to be able to breathe, be it open to atmosphere or through the carbon canister. Open to atmosphere will cause polution from the gasoline evaporating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 The problem is that the line is actually connected to a flow (directional) valve. The line from the old air cleaner would supply the air when needed to the gas tank. It sounds like the carbon canister functions the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I got rid of all the emission control stuff on my l20et. Charcoal cylinder is removed Line from gastank is bunged Control Valves in engine bay removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 You can keep or remove the canister. Most people remove it because it takes up space in the engine compartment, and doesn't really look all that good. It will function just fine if you decide to keep it. If you remove it, remember that you will need to vent the gas tank somehow or pressure will build up inside of it. I modified my cap by drilling a tiny hole in it. It is just enough to keep pressure from building up, but not big enough to let much gas out when corning hard with a full tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Thanks Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 The easiest thing is to buy one of those miniature K&N filters (like for a keychain) they have them down to 1/4" line size. And cap your flow control vavle, or the stock vent line with the filter. This allows you to keep you gastank vented through a filtered air source. Many have done it. The 260's and later have the carbon cannister, before that it was 'crankcase accumulation' and the gas vapors from the tank when sitting on a hot day were vented to the crankcase, eliminated during startup by the PCV system. I have moved the carbon cannister to the wheelwell, as well as replacing the Datsun Cannister with a Geo Metro Cannister (much smaller). For the early cars, all you need is a filter on the line---that makes it equivalent to the JDM 432R Race Spec with the filler tube overflow vent to the wheelwell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 The easiest thing is to buy one of those miniature K&N filters (like for a keychain) they have them down to 1/4" line size. And cap your flow control vavle, or the stock vent line with the filter. This allows you to keep you gastank vented through a filtered air source. Many have done it. It's funny you should say this Tony, as this was my exact plan. I have removed the flow valve and cut the line back to the trans tunnel, right before it crosses over to the passenger side. I am going to put the mini K&N filter there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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