Guest tom sixbey Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 has anyone ever tried to make solid metal bushings for the moustache bar to eliminate movement? - i've got a solid front mount, but it's just going to break my differential if i dont solidly mount the rear as well... any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 I don't see why a solid front mount/"soft" rear mount would cause your diff to break. For example, hypothetically if you unbolt the mustache bar, you're still going to be able to move the diff up and down and probably rotate it it side to side and axially. That front mount may be "solid", but there's still some give in the system. That diff is a whole lot stiffer and sturdier than the sheetmetal structure that it attaches to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 the way ive been schooled on this is this... the more solid parts you put into the driveline the less cushion there is to absorb hard launches and shifts. there for if you install all solid mounts the next in line to break is the diff and tranny unless you upgrade then too;> I dont think breaking the diff housing itself is an issue its the diff and gears that will break, and not because you have a solid front and urethan rear mount. I think you would rip the front mount out of the frame if anything happened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 All these points have merit. Only making one part of the diff mounts solid will cause flexing in that part, which is sure to fatigue, and crack the sheet metal crossmember up front, or the mount itself. And the cushion effect of these OEM mounts offer some advantages too. In the extreme case of my car (solid motor, solid tranny, solid diff mounts, with 315 wide tires and 240 axles but using the turbo halfshafts) I've had good luck so far. Road racing (IMHO) is a lot easier on the drivetrain (shock load wise) than the drag scene. Even with years of use in this configuration, I've never broke anything except the old U-jointed shafts. Tom, if you get a spare mustache bar (for OEM use later if you want to switch back), I'd weld flat round plates on the top of each curl, and then bolt these plates to the bar mounts by first unscrewing (removing) the studs, and replacing them with bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 Hrm, the diff mount often gets replaced with a solid piece because th estock piece seperates too easily as the diff snout tries to go upwards. The solid piece is pushed upwards during the hardest shock, it's not likely to pull out of the sheetmetal unless you do a monster downshift The MSA diff mount I have is made from VERY thick metal - it's not going to fatigue easily IMO. Having said that - I don't see any advantage to solidly mounting the moustache bar. You need some cushion in the system and that's what I'v eleft alone - with urethane bushings though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.