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LT1 optispark options


deja

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Danno74Z pointed me at http://www.delteq.com/ as a possible substitute for the LT1 Optispark and its inherent problems. I went to Fbody.com and asked if anyone used this. One guy has replied so far and posted this other option which uses LS1 coil packs.

Product:

http://bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html

 

Reference article:

http://www.mtfba.org/tech/ltcc.htm

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I guess it all depends on your budget and goals. I don't think the Opti is as bad as some people make it out to be. There are plenty of people that have many many miles on their car without any Opti related problems whatsoever. This is especially the case if you have a vented unit. I went ahead with a vented upgrade on my 94, but opted to use the Accel Opti instead of the factory unit (it looks like they run around $270 on eBay).

 

Are these other systems better...maybe, but it's definitely going to cost you. In my opinion, you should put the cash into something else that will get you more bang for your buck.

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I guess it all depends on your budget and goals. I don't think the Opti is as bad as some people make it out to be. There are plenty of people that have many many miles on their car without any Opti related problems whatsoever. This is especially the case if you have a vented unit. I went ahead with a vented upgrade on my 94, but opted to use the Accel Opti instead of the factory unit (it looks like they run around $270 on eBay).

 

Are these other systems better...maybe, but it's definitely going to cost you. In my opinion, you should put the cash into something else that will get you more bang for your buck.

 

I agree, they both are rather expensive with limited benefit. I will upgrade to the vented one when I build the new LT1 in the future.

BTW I just ground off my motor mounts to clear the steering shaft, that was fun.....NOT. I have about a finger of clearance now, think that's enough? After loosening the bolts holding the motor mounts to the cross member and raising an lowering a car a few times its now sitting in the middle of the slots with about a finger width distance between the balancer and the rack.

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Sounds to me like you have plenty of clearance. The part of the mount bolted to the Datsun mount tower should not move, if it does you have more serious problems.

I have similar clearances to yours (I think, my finger may be skinnier than yours :) ) and have had no problems with things rubbing.

 

BTW: Bartman, what did you do with the opti you removed from your engine? I'm considering adapting a MegaSquirt II to work with the opti and having one around to work with would be nice.

 

Wheelman

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Sounds like you have plenty of clearance for your steering shaft now. I used a cut-off wheel on my grinder and that made easy work of trimming my mount.

...

BTW: Bartman, what did you do with the opti you removed from your engine? I'm considering adapting a MegaSquirt II to work with the opti and having one around to work with would be nice.

 

Wheelman

I have the non-vented genuine GM Opti sitting in my garage. Tim240z bought it new, so it only has around 1,000 miles on it. PM me with an offer if you're interested.
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Sounds to me like you have plenty of clearance. The part of the mount bolted to the Datsun mount tower should not move, if it does you have more serious problems.

Wheelman

 

LOL, no that part is not moving. The Chevy motor mount was not tightened when I was raising and lowering the engine to gain access to grind on the Chevy mount. When I finished and lower it back down the motor mount sat in the center of the Datsun tower. It had been all the way toward the front of the tower.

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Sounds like you have plenty of clearance for your steering shaft now. I used a cut-off wheel on my grinder and that made easy work of trimming my mount.

 

My problem was more of access that anything else. I cut the rubber off the corner with the saws-all and then used the angle grinder to finish.

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You did that with the engine in place?

 

I just pulled the setback plate assembly to make that cut, not worth the effort of trying to get the grinder and sawzall into the tight confines next to the steering column.

 

Bartman,

If it only has 1000 miles on it you probably should just sell it on ebay. I'm really just interested in the optical section so I can feed to signal train into the MS-II unit and work out the code to control spark and injection timing.

 

Wheelman

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You did that with the engine in place?

 

I just pulled the setback plate assembly to make that cut, not worth the effort of trying to get the grinder and sawzall into the tight confines next to the steering column.

Wheelman

 

Yeah I did it with the engine in place. I started to pull the plate but decided to pull the column instead since it was pretty much pulled anyway.

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