Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 heres the RB30 that someone is selling me for 650 CDN, so thats like 580 US or something? I dunno. That's shipped to my door. Im gonna post the pics that I feel need to be looked at, the rest of the engine is in better off condition than whats displayed in these pics. Lemme know if you think that its not a good price. It's a series 2 block as well. any questions/concerns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 The cylinder walls seem a lil washed no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 The cylinder walls seem a lil washed no? washed? he cleaned them to see if there was any pitting. he's a good guy, i would trust him if he said it was fucked. he knows just as much about this particular engine as we do, considering all he's going by is the pics and such. but this engine has been sold. there is one in a bit better condition, so i need to know if it's a good price for 800, since im #2 on the list of engines. then there is one has been hit from the front, and the water pump pulley is broke, and the crank snout is probably bent, so that's a write off. block is probably cracked too. THEN there's this here, 400 bucks MAX i told him. that's pending what i hear about it here. Ideally what i'll be doing is boring it out and honing it somewhere around town (got friends who know friends so im sure i can get a deal)... but I'm questioning it's initial condition. the block outside looks better than the 800 dollar one, but look at the cylinder walls i dunnooooooo that piston looks like it was casted into the block like that. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Haha ya it does look a bit rough but if you going to bore it I wouldnt worry really. You just need a good core really no? When I said washed I mean worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Not a bad deal for the price. Mine cost a total of nearly $800.00 a few years ago. That was the purchase price and shipping to Oakland California. I ended up boring my block .020 over. It was borderline within specs and I was going with forged pistons anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 Not a bad deal for the price. Mine cost a total of nearly $800.00 a few years ago. That was the purchase price and shipping to Oakland California. I ended up boring my block .020 over. It was borderline within specs and I was going with forged pistons anyway. so you guys think that's a good block? even with all that rust on the walls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 adn what do you mean within specs? according to max overbore found out by unsuspecting aussie tuners or something?? I did not want to go max overbore. Going to .020 was the next standard bore up spec. I see no reason to take out more than is necessary for a nice tight street motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 I did not want to go max overbore. Going to .020 was the next standard bore up spec. I see no reason to take out more than is necessary for a nice tight street motor. so looking at these pics do yo honestly think that it is workable? i think all the ancilliares are coming with it. minus head. i can get a rb26 head off someone here for a good price. then i would get new bearings and pistons and such during the summer to build it up as an NA motor. as well as other parts from courtesy nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 As long as there is no major scoring on the cylinder walls, I would go with it. Anything used I buy is under the impression it is a usable core. The block and crank are all you care about. Ask if they guarantee it is rebuildable. Going with the RB26 head is an expensive route if you completely rebuild it. The 2 heads I have booth needed new exhaust valve guides. It seems to be a common problem with them. Then you have to adjust the valves, very labour and time intensive. The only RB30 components I ended up using was the block, crank, and rear main seal housing. Make sure you get the front pulley/damper bolt. The RB26 is different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 As long as there is no major scoring on the cylinder walls, I would go with it. Anything used I buy is under the impression it is a usable core. The block and crank are all you care about. Ask if they guarantee it is rebuildable. Going with the RB26 head is an expensive route if you completely rebuild it. The 2 heads I have booth needed new exhaust valve guides. It seems to be a common problem with them. Then you have to adjust the valves, very labour and time intensive. The only RB30 components I ended up using was the block, crank, and rear main seal housing. Make sure you get the front pulley/damper bolt. The RB26 is different. well i would be getting that, the Rb26 is the head only, but if it gets sold by the time i want to plonk down the cash, i might have to get an RB25DET setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 I would first start and dive in the cylinders with a good honing tool and see what comes up, it looks awful, but it might just be surface rust... Who sells these blocks??? I might be interested, cause, as I said before, I ordered 4, (since it's the same price to ship 1-4) sold 3, kept the best looking one for myself, but it ended up being cracked, so there are 3 lucky people out there and I left myself stranded . Otherwise, we could try to arrange something for both of us with some Aussie guys on this board. They usually can get them for around $50-100 AU and it costed me only $350 CAN to have them shipped. We could order 2 each, sell the other one and get ours for free lol... Let me know. The big plus on this situation is that the guys over there can check the engines and pick the GOOD ones before they ship. One last thing, if you get a good one that you wouldn't need to rebuild right away, get an N/A block as if you go with the turbo block, you'll end up with an awfuly low comp. ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 I would first start and dive in the cylinders with a good honing tool and see what comes up, it looks awful, but it might just be surface rust... Who sells these blocks??? I might be interested, cause, as I said before, I ordered 4, (since it's the same price to ship 1-4) sold 3, kept the best looking one for myself, but it ended up being cracked, so there are 3 lucky people out there and I left myself stranded . Otherwise, we could try to arrange something for both of us with some Aussie guys on this board. They usually can get them for around $50-100 AU and it costed me only $350 CAN to have them shipped. We could order 2 each, sell the other one and get ours for free lol... Let me know. The big plus on this situation is that the guys over there can check the engines and pick the GOOD ones before they ship. One last thing, if you get a good one that you wouldn't need to rebuild right away, get an N/A block as if you go with the turbo block, you'll end up with an awfuly low comp. ratio. cool, i'll check it out. how would we arrange shipping? I've added your hotmail to my msn, so if you see my name "ralph" come up, accept it! I doubt it would matter with this block, regarding the DE or DET version, seeing as i wont be reusing the pistons. LOL. We'll keep in touch =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 so i asked him to take off a bearing cap and show me the rust forming on any parts inside the bearing cap or on the crank if he can manage to turn it, etc. etc. im really weary ab out this engine, i mean, it's true, im gonna bore it, but blaaaaaaaaah... :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraz Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 We had a motor just like that last week. Gave it a 1mm overbore and used stock acl rb30e 1mm over pistons. The main things to check are the oil pump drive, You can usually tell how many kms it has done by the wear on the flats. If its really worn you will need to sleeve it. Also, grab the front pulley and jam it back and forward as hard as possible. You should eb able to 'feel' a little movement but not really see it. If its really sloppy then its pretty much buggerd and will cost a lot of money to get it built up around the thrust bearing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 thanks fraz.. some good info there. so i've since decided im not going to get that there RB block, and I'm getting another block that looks to be in better condition for roughly the same price, give or take a hundred. I'm also getting a box of misc parts like the power steering pump and alternator and such. AND.. to top it off, and to get my RB30DE build started, I've also struck a deal for a blown R33 RB26, that was starved of oil. I'm getting an exceptional deal on the two, as well as some good guarantees, AND they have someone who is willing to take the RB26 block off my hands when i'm done picking it bone-dry. Which leads me to my next question.. is it worthwhile to machine and retrofit the RB26 oilsquirters into the VL block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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