fraz

Here is a l28 gasket on the head. 35mm holes in the gasket. 29mm in the head. I test ported a piece of the head i cut and there appears to be enough meat in it. It was 5mm on one side and 1mm on the other. Ill get some more photos this week.

Just because the leads are new doesn't mean they can't be faulty. An easy one to test by swapping 2 leads around You could also try turning the dizzy around by 60degrees and moving all the leads around 1 hole so that cylinder is on a different post. Will be a quick way to test the cap and rotor for misalignment. Semi-related story, I had an issue with an rb engine that would foul cylinder 5 all the time. Tried everything I could think of. Turns out the fuel pressure regulator was leaking through the diaphragm and the vacuum fitting was opposite cylinder 5 so the fuel was just running in while it was idling.

What's the easiest way to get it out? I struggled a bit to get the tube out that holds the spring and ball. Got it out in the end and also tapped to 3/8 npt

Yes and no I think. Not changing the water jacket would reduce design and tooling cost, but would also increase aluminum cost. But they were being built at a time when designers only concentrated on making things function better. It wasn't until a few years later that the bean counters started putting the emphasis on costing less and less. So your probably right

Would say I will have to get new valve seats. Can't remember the measurements. You're in chch? I'm down there a couple of times a year, I can post you a cylinder of pieces if your interested. Somebody told me you had a flow bench too?

sorry photos are currently a bit average. i posted them from my phone. Will delete them next week and re-post some better ones. I measured the chamber at around 37cc, which will probably end up being maybe 40 with some bigger valves fitted and some de-shrouding I want to put it on a l28 with +030 flat tops. On the various compression ratio calculators i get around 10.5:1 We have 95 and 98 octane fuel available locally which is equivalent to 91 and 94 US octane. I should be ok for knock with a mild cam right?

Cylinder 6 inlet

Cylinder 6 exhaust

Yip I will put some photos up when I have some more free time.

I have a few 05L heads from the l20et that I was hoping to use for an l28. I will cut 1 of them up to see how much material there is in the port walls. Is it worth cutting every port? I put cylinder 6 through the bandsaw this morning and it looks promising.

My brother in law bored a v57 block to see how far he could go and it would not take 89mm so he kept going and has brazed a sleeve in. Only 1 so far to do a test run. I'll take a photo when I visit in a week. Interested to see your progress with furnace brazing. We have a gas supply and the space to build one if it is a good solution

Try disconnecting your alternator completely. It may have a big short in it. If not, disconnect everything wherever you can and measure the battery voltage. Then add things slowly until you get a drain.

I would imagine that the n42 block never had any rigidity issues so Nissan made the newer f54 block a bit thinner to save on material and therefore manufacturing costs.

3/8 npt. You need to drill it out to 9/16 before tapping it. 1/4 npt only just scratches the thread in and the plug won't be tight enough

What are they worth in the us? They are relatively common in nz. No idea on shipping tho. I know of some that may be surplus from a guy trying a diesel block stroker

just stripped a l26 that was a little bit worse. the tensioner had come out a bit more and was stuck against the bottom of the chain guide. motor was still running

Hi Heath, fletch here. Looks like your rings are probably not suitable. Would have thought that compression and boost level would be sweet. You would be better off with some plain rings and hopefully a hone. Have you changed your gearbox yet?

I just got a set of itm flat tops. They look waaaaaay more China than those photos that all the sellers use. Not going to rev it super hard so hopefully will be OK.

the block is a v57, crank still has v07 on it. maybe they just updated the block? My brother in law got it from a mat who had a bunch of them as spares for some LD converted vehicle he has/had. So no history on its origins. You can see from the photos that there is a large gap between the cylinders. there is a bit of wire between 1-2-3 and 4-5-6, must be from casting to keep the cores in line. Also some photos of the crank next to a modified rb30 crank.(modified for another engine, but using as a test fit here) now lots of photos cos every body loves photos - all photos have been halved in size. i can upload more detail if requested please excuse the amateur photos, im an amateur between 5-6 between 4-5 between 3-4 between 2-3 1-2 Crank photos and some measurements because everybody on the internet tells the truth! haha dont get upset by the modified rb30 crank. its back yard spec and it didnt fail

I'll take some photos today.

My brother in law just tested a v57 here in NZ and it was around 3.5-3.7mm wall. Bit disappointing as we were hoping to make 1 each. V57 motors are a bit more common in NZ.

when the engine heats up the alloy head and steel valves expand at different rates. Hence the different values for hot and cold. You usually do it hot as that is where you want them to be when the engine is operating. Since you have not done it before, it would be easier to do it cold first. Then you can take your time, learn to do it properley, and not worry about the engine cooling down while your doing it. I usually do it with the car in top gear and i rock it back and forth and do them a couple at a time as the cam lobes are pointing up.