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Any opinons on Silicon Vacuum hoses?


280z1975

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on the other hand, if you want to keep every function of a stock Z, and want to keep all the vacuum lines, I think silicone lines work well. I use them all over the place and they work great. For the tiny vacuum lines that go to the vacuum bottle and operate the vent controls in my 280Z, I used radio controlled car fuel line which is also silicone.

 

86586595-M.jpg

 

The valve cover hose is a dishwasher drain. LOL.

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From what I can see in the picture ...

 

A new fuel rail .... the coil and distributor have been relocated .... The vacuum bottle ... a lot of the exhaust manifold stuff ... relocation of may wires ... I am sure there is more... Can't tell any more without there being a shot from the other side.

 

This is where I plan to take my car at some point, it's just going to have to wait till I get my suspension and wheels upgraded, but in the mean time I want the car to run better and OEM original Vacuum hoses are old and I want to replace them.

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Silicon Vaccum hose is hte ONLY way to go IMO. It last a long time, is much more flexible so it is easier to route and to zip tie over vaccum fittings.

 

Its expensive but its the only thing I use, I just bite th ebullet and buy lots of it. I get mine from ATP, but you could prolly find it cheaper.

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What all can be eliminated?

 

 

 

Pearl2Medium.jpg

 

 

 

 

This set up is an extreme example of what can be eliminated, and is totally duplicate able for any street driven Z from, bone stock to hot street and the it will run and function pretty much the same as it did with all that crap on top, just a lot easier on the eye, less maintenance as there are fewer hoses, and goodies to keep track of and it is MUCH easier to work on if you have to remove the intake manifold, head, etc for whatever reason.

 

1) No EGR

 

2) No more water lines running under the Air Flow Regulator and around the front of the engine.

 

3) Air Flow regulator can be relocated to under the manifold or even off the engine to say the fire wall or driver side fender, and if a standalone EFI is used, one less hose as you only need a filter on the inlet side of the air flow regulator for cold running idle compensation. (in all fairness, this system pictured doesn’t have the air flow regulator at all. The compromise in eliminating the Air Flow Regulator is that for cold engine operation, i.e. initial start up in the morning, idle speed approx 500 RPM, warm engine idle is now 1100 RPM. A compromise worth making for this application.)

 

4) Custom fuel rail, this particular one is dead end style, i.e the fuel pressure regulator is on the fire wall and one fuel hose fees the fuel rail. Also, this fuel rail is for the modern O-ring style injectors and the manifold was modified for the newer injectors as well.

 

5) Wiring. Even the OE wiring harness can be cleaned up a LOT! Reroute the main portion of the harness along the firewall instead of the fender, then have it go over to the engine right at the fuel rail and route it directly under the fuel rail.

 

6) For the factory A/C cars with the vacuum canister, you can easily relocate the vacuum canister under the dash and then also get rid of all those electrically controlled vacuum solenoids. You wont notice any change in how the A/C and blower doors function and it declutters the engine bay quite a bit.

 

7) Brake booster vacuum line was rerouted under the master cylinder instead of over it and the fitting was relocated to the bottom of the manifold. (see pic below of bottom of manifold)

 

8) Vacuum port of the fuel pressure regulator was also relocated to the bottom of the manifold.

 

9) Idle speed adjustment is now via the ‘81+ ZX idle speed valve, (instead of the integral throttle body bulging screw…) and mounted it to the bottom of the manifold and a port in the bottom of the manifold. With aftermarket EFI, all you need is a little filter on the inlet side of that idle speed adjuster.

 

10) Cable actuated throttle valve eliminates the towers and throttle shaft on the manifold itself. A nice upgrade for ALL Z cars. Smooth consistent throttle feel

 

11) This particular engine is running Mega Squirt EFI which eliminates the Air Flow Meter, (AFM) and I also set it up to control a distributor less ignition system, the FORD EDIS-6 ignition from an 4.0 Exploder, no distributor at all. Coils are on the passenger strut tower, (see pic below), the Mega Squirt EFI controls the ignition timing to whatever I choose.

 

12) The manifold itself is a stock early ’75-’76 N-42 federal (i.e. non California), intake that didn’t have the EGR in the first palce and I spent SEVERAL hours massaging it and plugging holes to get it to this condition.

 

13) Throttle valve is a late model factory NISSAN 60mm, (Sentra SE-R I think), the water ports were removed, and the exterior was massaged to visually match up to the Datsun manifold and throttle shaft profiled…

 

 

I’m sure there is more, but I think you get the point…

 

This pic is the bottom of that manifold which clearly shows the brake booster vacuum port with its 90 degree fitting the other vacuum ports, drilled and tapped for NPT fittings at the rear.

 

DSC_7693Medium.jpg

 

 

This pic shows the coil pack and plug wires, NO distributor…

 

Plugwires.jpg

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Just use the reinforced silicon hose. The cheap stuff with no fabric reinforment will flatten out like a drinking straw, and will not withstand any boost. I remember on a local club road rally a fellow member with a Z32 made it about 5 miles into the rally. All of his trick silicone hoses had flattened out once they warmed up a bit. He had to limp to the local parts store to replace it all.

 

I'm a big fan of black hose, it looks great even when dirty!

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