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So a couple of days ago my 83 zxt started running like s**t ! When its cold and i start it it has to warm up before i can even touch the gas or it boggs and pops threw the intake and even after it warms up it still does it up till like 3k rpm but its driveable, and it done this once before like a month ago but it fixed itself and has been fine since . I have done the Z31 ECU converstion and am running an SAFC-2 and 240sx tps and it has been running perfect for the past several months with that setup . I have tested and checked everthing i can think of the fuel pressure is @ 35 at idle and 40 when i open the throttle the CHTS is giving the correct ohm readings the dist. timing is at 20* btdc the cam timing is on compression is good i have never been running the cold start stuff there are no boost leaks ive checked all the wiring several times idk what else to do does anybody have any other ideas ?!

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So a couple of days ago my 83 zxt started running like s**t ! When its cold and i start it it has to warm up before i can even touch the gas or it boggs and pops threw the intake and even after it warms up it still does it up till like 3k rpm but its driveable, and it done this once before like a month ago but it fixed itself and has been fine since . I have done the Z31 ECU converstion and am running an SAFC-2 and 240sx tps and it has been running perfect for the past several months with that setup . I have tested and checked everthing i can think of the fuel pressure is @ 35 at idle and 40 when i open the throttle the CHTS is giving the correct ohm readings the dist. timing is at 20* btdc the cam timing is on compression is good i have never been running the cold start stuff there are no boost leaks ive checked all the wiring several times idk what else to do does anybody have any other ideas ?!

 

ok check the fuel volume. you can do this by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and have the car running. the fuel volume is diffrent then the pressure hit the dump on the fuel pressure tester the fuel pump should instantly have re pressurized and the engine should run without a flaw. if it stumbles you could have a bad fuel pump. another way to test the fuel pump is to put an amp probe on it and watch it if its all over the place he pump is bad.

 

another thing i dont know if this car has it but the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor need to be sycronious(sorry i cant spell) see if there is a way to reset it through the computer. if either sensor is bad it will cause the injector to fire at the wrong time like when the exhaust port is opening witch is bad.

 

finally ohm out your wires the correct way to see if a wire is good is

1 find both ends of the wire and dissconnect it

2 come off the positive side of the batt and hook a 10ohm resistor to a volt meter what this will show you is if the wire is good under load (it might ohm out all day long but with the load might fubar)

3 out your tester in parrell with the wire and ground the other end (i know your saying direct short right dont forget you have a 10 ohm resistor in there).

4 the volt reading should be very close to the batt voltage i.e. 12.5 batt 12.0-12.5 on the wire if you drop more then 1/2 volt your wire has to much resistance and should be replaced.

 

have you checked all the vaccume lines and intake gasket? a good way to do this is take a mapp gas torch and have the car running trigger the gas release but do not light the torch follow all the vaccume lines and go around the intake if there is a leak you will hear the engine rev up this is a great way to find the leaks.

 

finally do you have a means for checking your gas useage ie short term long term it would help further the diagnosis

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