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Garage Flooring


cygnusx1

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I painted my garage floor about 8 years ago and it's starting to peel up and the concrete has a few small rough spots. I was thinking about using one of those modern epoxy floor coatings but I still wont have a perfectly smooth finish because of the pocked condition of some of the areas on the floor. I started thinking about doing one of those snap together checkered floor tile systems. Anyone have any experience with them. I am a bit concerned with winter snow melt, and other automotive fluids that might pool under the floor tiles if spilled. My garage is about 14x23. 1-1/2 car garage. It's really one car, detatched garage with alot of working space. Heat and A/C, if I need it. Should I use perforated tile to let liquids through or solid to keep liquids on top. There is no drain. Maybe just a large 10x20 roll mat would work?

 

http://www.airomat.com/garagematwebpg.htm#tile

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Garage-Floor-Tile-Plastic-Modular-Flooring-Locking_W0QQitemZ160099339729QQcategoryZ20604QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Cygnus,

 

The roll out flooring might be a good idea if it will lay flat. I'm somewhat unconvinced that it will lay flat like carpet, but what do I know? My local Costco has that roll out diamond plate garage flooring in stock. I bet their price is pretty good, so you may want to try them near you for price before buying something.

 

The tiles look cool, but I have the same concerns you do about fluids. I have epoxy floor paint just waiting to get rolled on the floor. Moving the stuff out of the garage for two or three days is what's keeping me from doing it. To avoid the same issues you have had with lifting paint, I'm making prepwork a priority.

 

Davy

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ive been to a house with a garage that had that on one side of the garage.

 

Two car garage that had the entire floor done in the diamond plate pattern one.

 

even with oil spills, stuff gets through and lingers in there forever. the garage is now half-and-half.

 

bare concrete repainted all over, and then half in the diamond type interlocks again. reason being is that the show car is on the interlocks, and the work area is on the concrete, because removing those interlocks to clean a work area when something spills is a bitch because of their interlocking nature.

 

I say if your garage is in somewhat of a shamble, or neither clean nor dirty in great variance, i'd just try and use a concrete filler, get it as smooth as possible, and then use a hand floor-sander (it looks like a swiffer sweeper but its heavy duty and has sandpaper attachments at the bottom).

 

smoothen it out during application as much as possible. sand it with the tool, and then use concrete etching primer (also amazing for removing and preventing rust, as it containts 50+ % of phosphoric acid, which is the highest concentration i could find).

 

once the concrete is a nice dull, but bright grey, i would paint it with Rust Bullet.

 

 

Rust bullet is being used by the US Navy to coat the surfaces on which their fighter jets screech to a grinding halt at 200mph landing speed upon their aircraft carriers, just as a reminder.

 

should cost you roughly 120 bucks to do the entire job.

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It's the part about moving all the crap out of the garage that freaks me out a bit, I suppose I could use a filler and do half the floor at a time. This way I could shuffle the stuff from one end of the garage to the other. The surface isn't too bad but I know there is some loose concrete under the old epoxy. You can hear it when you tap it with a hammer. I would need to chip out all the loose concrete abd then skim coat with a filler. Maybe I'll look into the roll out mat for now. Quick and easy. I could roll it out to hose it off.

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