Does anyone make a 6 point rollbar for a 240Z

[Guest Anonymous]

Does anyone know of a rollbar kit for the Z cars, or does everyone have theirs custom made? I have a 485 horse small block chevy, 700R4, R200(CV axles), Weld Draglites(16X7 all the way around with Nitto Extreme Drag Radials) and sub frame connectors. The car got booted off the track because it went 11.80@ 118 mph.

[Tim240z]

S&W has a kit for 8 and 12 point cages. Do a quick search on the topic and you will find tons of info. This has been discussed at length. Sorry I can't remember the link to S&W and I'm not on my computer (out of town), but do a search and you will find it. I used the 8 point kit...have pictures on my site if you're interested. Many others here have used it too.

 

Tim

[73BOTIZ]

I have an 8 point cage from S&W. The main hoop welds into the existing seat belt wells.It also requires notching to fit correctly.

 

Mike D.

[Scottie-GNZ]

Fast240,

 

nice numbers. What was the 60' time? Any pics?

[katman]

Just don't expect the S&W cage to save your ass if you crash. The design is junk, not SCCA legal for a reason. NHRA must not have any engineers on staff...

[Guest Anonymous]

Hey guys (TIM240Z, 73BOTIZ, SCOTTIE-GNZ), thank you for the quick response, I will follow-up on the leads. Scottie the 60' on the run was 1.87. I don't have any pics no digital camera yet), but as soon as I get one I will post some. Thanks again, kinda new to the computer/internet scene......this is great....love this site.

[Z-Dreamer]

Contact Chassisworks at www.cachassisworks.com

They make up to a 14 point cage kit for the Z for $300!

 

Mark

[katman]

The chassisworks design is also missing key structural elements. Use it for looks, not for racing.

[Guest Anonymous]

Hey guys thanks for the input. Tim, I checked your website, you noted that you had to heavily modify the S&W kit to make make it work properly, it seems like it would be almost as much work as having a custom one built. Z-Dreamer, have you used the CA Chassisworks kit, and if so, how is the fit? Katman, you don't like any of the kits, what do you recommend?

[Guest Anonymous]

i have a feeling im in for some trouble, i got a 10pt cage off ebay(used) for about 150$ and it is damn near identical to your cage tim. the floor pans need to be welded in and so im gunna have the guy do the cage too. im only 5"10 so do i also have to move the center piece of the main hoop back like you did? was it that bad??? im worried now.

[Dragonfly]

I have the S&W 10 point cage in my 72 240 and like many others I had to make some modifications, I think that is because each car and driver is different. If any one here is going to be at the Westcoast Nationals (Motorsport show) in May I will be there and you can get a first hand look at my cage. I would say that $150 for the cage is a good price, having a custom cage made and installed is going to cost allot more.

 

As long as you are using the car for mostly street driving with some racing rather than the other way around the design of the cage is fine, it will add support to all of the factory support that is made into the car. I would recomend that if you are ever involved in an accident that impacts your cage no matter what cage it is you have the cage replaced. If anyone is building a race only vehicle than you should have a cage in your car that will make Katman smile with pride.

 

Dragonfly

[Guest Anonymous]

i have a 400++ hp l28et built up to put in the car, i plan on road racing it mostly, gutted interior one racing seat. the cage was dirt cheap, but i want to be able to fit in my car. should i just have the welder do the floor pans subframe connectors then get my seat fitted the way i want it and then put the cage in? im afraid that the guy will weld in the cage and once i get the seat mounted i wont be able to reach the pedals or i'll be so cramped in the seat my knees are slammed into the steering wheel. any advice? i have a 73' shell ready for modifications.

[Dragonfly]

I am 5'-9" and I have the bar going straight across behind the seat (not notched back like Tim) and I fit comfortably. It would be in your best interest to place the seat where you want it and are comfortable, mark the location and make the measurements for your cage around that location. If your going to be sharing a race track with any other cars I would recomend that you add at a minimum a diagonal bar behind the drivers seat and weld in a seat support that allows you to attach the seat to the cage so there is no slop in the seat. Measure... measure... measure... then weld.

 

Dragonfly

[Z-Dreamer]

I not sure what Katman means by "missing key structural elements" the base price for a 14 point mild steel cage kit starts at $300. If you what chrome molly it's more. This is a "kit" and will require "notching" the tubing and cutting it to length for proper fitmint. If you are going racing, then you need to know what are the tech rules for your class of racing.

 

P.s. Chassisworks holds many awards for design and some of the quickest Doorslammers on the West coast use them.

 

Mark

[katman]

I sent a response earlier this morning to Rick Scott, perhaps he will post it, I don't feel like typing it again. It would behoove anybody who's main intent is track days to get a copy of the SCCA's General Competition Rules book and build a cage to those specs for the appropriate weight vehicle. The SCCA collective has some experience with that sort of thing.

 

If your intent is sanctioned racing then you have to abide the by safety rules of the particular sancioning body, as Mark just pointed out.

 

If Chassis Works holds design awards for their cages then I'd like to know the credentials of the Judges. They are heavy and inefficient and borderline unsafe for a Z.

 

On the street, any cage will probably be better than no cage, other than the fact you're adding weight up high and all the bad things that result from that.

[katman]

delete this one