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if you were building it


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ok i have heard a couple ideas now but here is what i want to do

sbc 383 stroker tpi

twin turbos (im in love with boost)

now you tinker from there how would you build it? im looking for around 500-550hp to the wheels and around 450-500ft lbs for now and ability for more. i want to see the veriety of builds people can come up with. the car is a street( weekend warrior) and track(1/4mile) use. must be able to run off 91 octain and is going to reside in the mile high state (denver colorado)

LET THE BRAINSTORM BEGIN:cool:

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i would go single turbo t72 or bigger,

skip the 383, keep the 350.

invest in some heavy duty rods and low comp pistons,

save cash and skip the 400 stroke crank(machine work) and use it towards the turbo fuel feed.

maybe extra injectors or bigger injectors or aftermarket fuel setup.

fmic is a must for me...ported heads, bigger valves, port manifold. boost loves to slide accross smooth side walls..

bigger throttle body...

 

pretty much you can make easy 500hp off a sbc350 with good pistons, tuning and fuel feed. just my opinion...ive seen people making over 450hp with basic 8-9 pounds of boost on a sbc with good tunning and fuel supply.

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see this is what im talking about lol another veriety i was thinking that having the stroker was better being that boost loves bigger stroke

i would go single turbo t72 or bigger,

skip the 383, keep the 350.

invest in some heavy duty rods and low comp pistons,

save cash and skip the 400 stroke crank(machine work) and use it towards the turbo fuel feed.

maybe extra injectors or bigger injectors or aftermarket fuel setup.

fmic is a must for me...ported heads, bigger valves, port manifold. boost loves to slide accross smooth side walls..

bigger throttle body...

 

pretty much you can make easy 500hp off a sbc350 with good pistons, tuning and fuel feed. just my opinion...ive seen people making over 450hp with basic 8-9 pounds of boost on a sbc with good tunning and fuel supply.

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500 HP is easy to come by NA w/ a small block Chevy. Very Easy W/ boost.

 

I would start with a stock 2 bolt main 350 block.

- Machine the mains in the block for splayed 4 bolts mains. (much stronger than the stock 4 bolt main block)

- Forged crank, (its a smallblock Chevy, so many choises)

- Forged rods, (same as above)

- Forged 8.0/1 pistons

- L31 Vortec heads, (LT1 heads cast in iron)

- yeah I would have to do some, ok alot of reasearch on cam selection, I really have no idea for turbo engines. ;) _

 

But the above combo with say 9.5/1 pistons and the right cam could be capable of close to 450 HP NA

 

On a side note!!!

I was at PIR, Portland International Raceway, last night and there was a 67 Malibu,(Read big and heavy car), running a twin Turbo small block. It was a blow thru carb setup, not EFI, I feel EFI and boost were made for each other.

He had Master Power turbos, I have no Idea what size they were, but OMG did that car leave the line hard and pull like mad thru the intire 1/4 mile! WOW!!!!!! That car was running 10's in the 1/4 mile and he drove it to the track!!

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i would go single turbo t72 or bigger

 

Why single? You can route two exhaust systems, or you can route two intake systems. I would much prefer the later. Different strokes, I guess.

 

skip the 383, keep the 350.

 

He hasn't mentioned budget, although I'm sure he has one. I say build as much displacement you can afford. All things being equal, a 383 will produce the same HP/torque on less boost AND be more responsive for its respective power.

 

save cash and skip the 400 stroke crank(machine work) and use it towards the turbo fuel feed.

 

This is the best advice you've given so far, although it still hinges on a budget that he hasn't yet established.

 

bigger throttle body...

 

Why? The TPI manifold is FAR more restictive than its TB.

 

im looking for around 500-550hp to the wheels and around 450-500ft lbs for now and ability for more.

 

Massive tourqe on a boosted TPI is nearly a given. However, you might have trouble reaching that HP goal. Any efforts I've seen to push airflow through a TPI have been futile.

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Id first point out that the TPI ENGINES were and are saddled with both very restrictive heads and intakes, MOST TPI blocks were two bolt and generally if your thinking of a turbocharged engine thers not a single top quality part to be had amoung the factory provided components INCLUDING the BLOCK, now IM in no way suggesting you can,t reach your 500-550 rear wheel hp goal, IM just strongly suggesting starting with a basic TPI. engine is FAR from the optimum base to work from.

next theres hp and tq increases to be found in the larger displacement and longer stroke of the 383 over the 350, and theres not much if any potential advantage in sellecting a 350 because you can,t use the cast pistons, lousy stock rods or crank if you expect it to live LONG TERM rather than a season or two.

 

heres the stock 4 bolt block

 

1986-99 350ci 4-Bolt Main Bare Block

P/N 10105123 P/N 10066034

 

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/Engine_Blocks/gm.html

 

notice the MAX SUGGESTED POWER RATEING

 

10105123.html

 

10066034a.jpg

 

heres THE BEST FACTORY TPI heads

p104408_image_large.jpg

 

Ive built DOZENS of the TPI engines and yes you can get 500 FLYWHEEL HP/TQ with the correct parts, BUT ITS BEATING A DEAD HORSE, COMPARED to what you could build for just alittle more money

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i guess i just really like the look fo a tpi is what it comes down but if it cant be done then it cant be done im willing to do heads port the intake etc etc my budget is 2500 for the engine build and i want to do it right but again i love the tpi i think its the sweetest looking engine ever

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WELL...... 2500 bucks won't go far. Say

 

400 - Forged Pistons

350 - Good rods

300 - Good crank (probably could get an eagle for a little over 200)

200 - balance

100 - bore and hone

500 - vortec heads, aluminum will be 1000+

100 - camshaft

200 - intake

200 - injectors (atleast)

250 - fuel/ignition conroller (atleast IF you do MS)

?$$ - line bore, deck, rings, bearings, seals, forget putting 4 bolt caps on a 2 bolt block that's another 500, so just say arp main bolts because your rods should have decent bolts on them already, gaskets.......

?$$$$$$ - turbo, bov, wastegate, exhaust, IC etc etc.

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the 2500 is not for the turbo setup, fuel, or accessories, also already have block

WELL...... 2500 bucks won't go far. Say

 

400 - Forged Pistons

350 - Good rods

300 - Good crank (probably could get an eagle for a little over 200)

200 - balance

100 - bore and hone

500 - vortec heads, aluminum will be 1000+

100 - camshaft

200 - intake

200 - injectors (atleast)

250 - fuel/ignition conroller (atleast IF you do MS)

?$$ - line bore, deck, rings, bearings, seals, forget putting 4 bolt caps on a 2 bolt block that's another 500, so just say arp main bolts because your rods should have decent bolts on them already, gaskets.......

?$$$$$$ - turbo, bov, wastegate, exhaust, IC etc etc.

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A hot "Pure Street" turbo engine used as a daily driver will have 15 degrees or less of overlap with 230 or 250 duration and 116 degrees LSA and an 8.0:1 SCR, while a "Weekend Warrior" turbo engine will have about 30 degrees of overlap...AND NO MORE with 260 to 270 duration and 114 LSA and 8.5:1 SCR. Whereas a pro stock turbo cam will have 60 degrees of overlap and no more w/280 to 290 duration with 108 to 110 LSA and a 9.5:1 SCR.

 

I agree about not using the TPI. GM replaced the TPI becuase of it being so restrictive and limited in aftermarket pieces. I too like the TPI engine; but if you want your engine to breath - you pay big bucks to get cylinder heads to breath at all and then their numbers still dont stack up to an old school SBC.

 

You can do it but it will cost you twice as much as an old school engine whose parts are far more plentiful and off the shelf parts are ready to go w/out extra costs at the machine shop.

 

I like the idea of a TT; wish I had the time and budget as I would like to dabble with a TT Z.

 

Heck I wish I had the time to just put a SBC in my Z (Frown).

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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