Cheep and easy brakes 2

[madmanadam]

Can I jump in late?

I now have been running the toyota 4x4 front conversion for a full year. All I can say is they stop ya!

When I first remembered I switch brakes it was the fist time they worked and I was Very lucky.

No Sqweeal? just stop on a dime, me very happy.

I'm running stock drums in rear and Toyota 4x4

front and pushing 300hp+ I hope @ the wheels.

I weigh in at 2520 lbs total weight with out driver.

I just weigh'd the car at the local way station.

2520 total front half 1260 back half 1240 missing somewhere?

but still not bad

It loves 3400 rmps

Break in time is over.

And summer is here

 

thanks

adam

[Guest Anonymous]

if you're not gonna upgrade the rotors just upgrade the pads....hawk blue or carbon metallics...

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

"if you're not gonna upgrade the rotors just upgrade the pads....hawk blue or carbon metallics..."

 

Hawk Blues will just shred your rotors in cold street use. They're pretty much a track only or drive to track and then track it only pad unless you don't mind excessive dusting (when cold) and rotor wear. I've had a set on my shelf for sometime now but never had to use them yet, I did my street setup so I wouldn't have to mess with dual track pads etc which can be a cost that'll sneak up on you over time. Some true racing pads are $150US/set...couple that to rotor replacements and a bit more up front can be well spent.

[DCZ]

I have the stock rotors and calipers on my 71 240z with the KVR carbon fiber pads that Ross C sells (Thanks Ross!). Stock drums/shoes on the rear. Stainless brake hoses. I am very happy with this setup for the street. I can modulate the brakes right at the point of lockup and the car stops RIGHT NOW, I can lift my ass off the seat no problem. I haven't been on the track yet with this setup (warped my last set of rotors at the track using cheep-o pads) but I plan on adding brake ducting for the track. My advice - unless you are going for a lot of track use, keep the stock stuff, make sure it is in good condition, and get some KVR pads.

[fl327]

i love my 4x4 brakes, love them. but i dont think they would hold up a racetrack

but they hold up great on the street, i run metal master pads(best that kragen can do for me) and good shoes in back, on the street they stop great, with 15/16 pedal is firm, and best part is that im friends with the parts guy at my local kragen

and the swap cost me 98.00 after i used the two pistons as cores!!!!! you cant beat that with a bat. that was fronts, rears cost me 16.00 shoes, 6.00 spring kit, 38.00 a drum and yes theyre aluminum, and they shiny. i have no fear whatsoever ON THE STREET

if i were to go track race, probably use the 4runner/vented with ross c. rear discus upgrade with good pads.

[260DET]

If my Z31 solid rears and Nissan calipers don't work out, I'll be looking at something like Nissan Bluebird U13 front rotors, 280mm dia x 22mm thick. They are 4 stud so they should slip on.

 

Calipers? Maybe Falcon XE-XF rears, they have an integral handbrake mechanism. Anyone in Oz tried this combo?

[TimZ]

Well, nobody else has mentioned it yet, so I guess I will...

 

The manner in which you 'bed in' the pads can have a huge impact on their performance, regardless of which pads you choose. I saw at least one post in this thread that alluded to not being able to lock the brakes with a fresh stock braking system - I suspect that the pads weren't bedded in properly, since the stock brakes should still be able to lock on a single stop.

 

If you get performance pads, they will probably include bedding in instuctions for the specific pad - follow them.

 

In lieu of instructions, I usually follow this procedure:

 

10 moderate effort stops (~0.3g) from ~15mph

10 moderate effort stops from ~35mph

10 moderate effort stops from ~50mph

5 higher effort (~0.6g) stops from ~50mph

 

Don't leave alot of cooldown time between stops, and try to drive the car a fair distance above 40mph after the procedure is done, avoiding using the brakes to let them cool back down evenly.

 

The low speed stops can be done just about anywhere that traffic is light. The higher speed stops take a bit more planning.

[Guest larkja]

I have the 4x4 front calipers and am looking for some good pads. I've heard metalmasters, hawk, etc. mentioned here. Which would be best for daily driving/driver's ed/autox? I used to have Hawk HP Plus with my old 2 piston calipers - they were great. If Hawk (or another brand) are best, which is there a model number or sku I can reference? Or do I just say I've got the Toyota 4x4 calipers - what do you have?

 

Thanks

Jim

[fl327]

i went metal masters, i didnt do a planned bed procedure, but what i did was take it easy for a good 100 miles or so, easy and moderate stops for a good long time, now i bash my foot into the floor brake and it locks up if i try to lockem up, with modulation off and on pressure i can get some good stops out of them, havent tried more than two or three in a row, but i havent had trouble with the setup yet. this is with solid rotor and metal master.

[260DET]

Bendix Metal King Plus are quite good, think they are sold in the US as Axxis, not Bendix.

 

You may need the model of the Toy donor or else take in your old pads to identify. There are at least two different Toy calipers which can be used.