280ZX Brakes?

[Lockjaw]

Anyone know if there is an upgrade for a 280Zx or brake pads that work well. I am having much difficulty getting my car to stop when running thru the quarter mile.

 

I have some semimatallic's from NOPI, and they suck.

 

Thanks

[Guest greimann]

At one time I actually made a set of carbon metallic brake pads to fit my ZX. PITA, to carve them down from a Chevy style pad, but boy did they bite, and the hotter they got, the better they bit.

 

I believe Ross C. has a line on performance pads for the ZX. I was hoping he would chime in here. You might look him up and send an e-mail

[Guest Aaron]

I too am looking at upgrades for the ZX. Ross C www.modern-motorsports.com who posts here has 13" front brake upgrades for the ZX as well as some other parts. Mike/SCCA www.fonebooth.com/auto.html has a 12" front upgrade and other parts. I am cannot remember where I heard it, but I think the 4 piston calipers and rotors from a 90-96 300ZX may fit with minimal fabrication. You would have to drill you hub out to 5 lug, or drill the rotor to 4 lug. I do not know what spacers or brackets may be required. However, for the most stopping power and easiest install, go with Ross's solution.

 

Where are you in B'ham? I am assuming Alabama and not England. My dad lives in McCalla (sp?). We are starting to get quite a few members in AL and GA.

[Lockjaw]

I am in Argo actually. Between springville and Trussville. I live on the good side BTW.

 

I will check out some of the links and see what is up.

 

Do you ever go to steele on friday nights for test and tune? I go sometimes with a couple of friends.

[Guest Aaron]

I haven't been to steele yet. I have a buddy that goes quite regularly that I have been planning to go with, but his truck is down right now getting new head gaskets, milled heads, and intake. His name is Ellis, and his truck is a light blue 70's Ford. Look him up if he is there. When I get a chance to go with him, I will drop you an email. There are several HybridZers in the area, maybe we can all get together.

[denny411]

Where is this Steele you speak of I might be interested in going sometime

[Guest Aaron]

Steele, AL, is one exit south of Gadsden on I-59. Steele is home to the Alabama International Dragway. The IHRA used to have an event there every year, but I don't think they do anymore.

 

I could not make this a link, so try this URL.

 

MapsOnUs.switchboard.com/bin/maps-planroute/usr=~new?RouteType=f&AddMarker=Marker=START%09LL=-85.83597%2c33.60145%09Name=Start+Point+%28Oxford%2c+AL%29&AddPoi=b2:1dbc5e b7&SelectItems=START+Poi.b2:1dbc5eb7&SessionSrc=SendMail.r

 

When you take the Steele exit, you turn left, and take the first right I believe. Lockjaw, correct me on this.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

Originally posted by Lockjaw:

Anyone know of:

1) an upgrade for a 280ZX

2) or brake pads that work well.

 

I am having much difficulty getting my car to stop when running thru the quarter mile.

Thanks

Lockjaw, yes and yes. Can you elaborate on your current issues? You're running 1320's at the track and can't stop afterwards without difficulty? OEM in proper shape should haul you down in a moderate fashion without any troubles, if you're running stickies and doing a max-force brake effort on crap pads then you're going to have troubles. Even OEM pads will practically melt when driven very aggressively IME.

 

The only very cheap upgrade which is worth it BIGTIME in my experience (I did track etc with my setup OEM..) is some higher quality pads. For me these were the KVR carbon fibre pads I started running some 5 yrs ago and now distribute. I was unable to fade them on lapping days when my brake fluid was even boiling over and their rotor wear is friendlier than anything else I've ever used (includes at least 4 other compounds including OEM's).

 

For upgrades I sell my 13" brembo rotor/PBR caliper front setup which is all you'll ever need. Incredible modulation and control comes along with the immense braking force. Drop me a line for more details if interested. Present available setup is based on a 5lug conversion but I'm always open to new alternates. Pictured below is my bolton setup, I also run the 16x8 RX7 wheels, only street 13" setup I'm aware of that clears 16" (some anyhow ) wheels.

 

q's are always welcome

[Lockjaw]

I am runnning hi 12's in the 1/4 mile at 113 or so mph, and when I try to stop, I get awful fade, and then that noise, its awful. I have to go all the way to the end of the run off, and then I still have to whip the car around.

 

I am planning on looking into getting a 240-280z, so I don't want to spend the money on Brembo's for this car, I am just looking for some good pads or some sort of upgrade like the 4 runner calipers for the early model Z's.

 

This car sucks in the stopping department, So I was hoping someone had some experience with some pads or had some problems like I have, and could tell me the deal.

 

I am planning to upgrade my turbo soon, so I have got to address the stopping issue. I am running drag ta's on the back.

 

Thanks

[Lockjaw]

Originally posted by Aaron:

 

When you take the Steele exit, you turn left, and take the first right I believe. Lockjaw, correct me on this.

Depends what direction you come from. Sounds like your directions are from Gadsden, and if that is right, you would be correct. If you are coming up 59 from Bham, you would get off and hang a right and take your first right.

 

Be careful if coming up from Bham as the fuzz is usually hanging around the exit looking for people acting like fools.

 

We usually go up for test and tune on friday night. It is 10 bucks to get in and you can run as much as you can. I try to get there about 8 even though they don't open until 9 so I don't to sit in line for an hour after they open. They are not the most efficient folks and it is usually 10 before people start running.

 

If some of you want to go sometime, email me at my home address, and I will meet you up there. I am only about 20 minutes away.

 

I have to swap my diff before I go again, and I think it is getting time to rebuild/replace my turbo. I am trying to break 115 mph in the 1/4 and 90 in the 1/8th on this turbo before going larger.

 

Then it will be time to go to the 240-280z body and see what happens.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

Originally posted by Lockjaw:

I am runnning hi 12's in the 1/4 mile at 113 or so mph, and when I try to stop, I get awful fade, and then that noise, its awful. I have to go all the way to the end of the run off, and then I still have to whip the car around.

 

I am planning on looking into getting a 240-280z, so I don't want to spend the money on Brembo's for this car, I am just looking for some good pads or some sort of upgrade like the 4 runner calipers for the early model Z's.

 

This car sucks in the stopping department, So I was hoping someone had some experience with some pads or had some problems like I have, and could tell me the deal.

 

I am planning to upgrade my turbo soon, so I have got to address the stopping issue. I am running drag ta's on the back.

 

Thanks

Have you fully bled your brake fluid? Checked front calipers and pistons are travelling freely? And rear pad wear normal as well? Many Z/ZX's now have old/worn brake systems. The OEM 280ZX brakes are fine for casual street or your 1320 hauldown. Check into your caliper condition and get some good pads, at the same time check the condition of your rotors, if they're very grooved/worn and beyond turning then they should be refreshed as well. If it's troublesome at the 1/4 mile it could nip you any other time as well. It won't cost much to do pads and fluid or even swap for rebuilt front calipers if required, rears are much pricier IME. I ran roadrace lapping day events for 2yrs with this setup. I haven't come across too many 280ZX motorsports enthuZiasts yet so feedback/experiences with 280ZX's aren't too abundant online.

 

You'll be suprised at how good the OEM setup is for one-shot stops and light track when your system is in good condition with good pads.

 

Full set of front/rear carbon fiber street pads is $105 delivered to your door FWIW.

 

Their isn't a bolt on caliper we're aware of for 280ZX's like the 4x4 caliper. Besides 280ZX is similar to Z's IMO in that it's the rotor mass that's limiting total braking as the first limitation for extreme use, then modulation 2nd. I'm quite certain your issue is the current state of your system, it's design is fine, just needs some refreshing I'm sure. If I could do threshold braking from 140mph to 60 on lapping days with hot rotors, then yours will handle your 1/4 mile stops with cold rotors fine once refreshed

 

HTH

[Lockjaw]

That sounds like I need to look into the pads you are talking about. I had replaced everuthing in the system except the brake master cylinder. I put Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in there, and had worse problems. Top End said to junk the synthetic and run castrol brake fluid and said I shoulg buy a set of Porterfields if I still had problems.

 

I am going to have to get a new set of rotors. They are pretty cheap, and I don't like to mess around with turning stuff. I am bleeding mine by myself, so I could be having a problem there. I usually attach a hose to the bleed nipple and stick the hose down in a jar with some brake fluid in it, and bleed them out that way. I think I should get one of those bleeder kits.

 

I am not very good at bleeding brakes. I always had to get someone to help me. But I still don't think my pads are worth having, and I need rotors too.

 

I suppose we need to get you the proper CC info so you can send me some of those pads.

 

I will see about getting in touch with you monday.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

"I am not very good at bleeding brakes. I always had to get someone to help me. But I still don't think my pads are worth having, and I need rotors too."

 

I installed Russell speed bleeders 5 yrs back or so and have done all my bleeds since then with no troubles. They're a one way valve you install to replace your bleeder screw. When it's in tight as per a normal bleeder it's fully sealed, back it out ~1/4 turn (a little less as I recall, 1/8-3/16's) and then pump the pedal as much as you want as long as you keep your master full......I do the same as you, a rubber hose slipped on the bleeder that then goes into a glass jar I use with a hole in the lid, hose end is submerged in brake fluid in the bottom just as an extra if it does want to draw anything back but not mandatory. I've got them available as well.

 

Drop me a line anytime.

[Lockjaw]

Ross,

I cannot get the website to work. Try to email me on my work email. cpeterson@msdudley.com

 

Thanks

Craig

[Guest Anonymous]

I was at Harbor Freight and saw a hand operated vacuum pump for $30. It claimed you could bleed your brakes by yourself with it. Realizing I already had a hand vacuum pump, I went home and replaced the rear calipers on my 89 Prelude, and used the hand pump to bleed them. It worked GREAT. Very easy to do. The only thing I would do differently next time is to try and put a little fluid into the calipers before attaching the brake lines. That should save you some pumping. (Hand got tired. )

 

I would like some speed bleeders though. Where can I get those?

[Lockjaw]

What is Harbor Frieght?

[Tim240z]

See for yourself:

web page

Tim

[Mike kZ]

Go to harborfreight.com It's a mail order tool company. They do have some stores as well.

[Scottie-GNZ]

Lockjaw,

 

if you can spring for the big brake upgrade, go for it. However, my advice is to first find out exactly what the current problem is because if it is related to the m/c, booster or prop valving, you will be an unhappy camper after your upgrade. I am going 125-126mph and have no problem stopping with 82 ZX front calipers, 84 rotors and KVR carbon pads. I do have 11.5" Vette rear brakes but I have the prop valve adjusted towards the front.

 

Good luck and it sounds like you have a runner there.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

"I cannot get the website to work. Try to email me on my work email."

 

Craig, the web was down briefly while the ISP did a major server swap. Email was down as a result, it's all been back working for a while now and I did drop you a line lastnight. We went out of town on zero notice for a memorial service yesterday so my email queue got delayed somewhat. All items of interest are available. I would check the pads you have to see if they're glazed, if so, sand down their face and retry them to confirm your present system doesn't have any fundamental issues as Scottie suggests. And a rebleed never hurts, sometimes one can get air bubbles in a caliper. Tapping it with a rubber mallet and giving it a day or two and then rebleeding has always worked for folks that come across that. It should never be so soft that it's an actual hazard after your first bleed.