JMortensen Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 No I checked 2 and figured they would be the same. OK i guess its time to dismantle the head again. LoL Just want to be sure you know that you don't really need to take anything too far apart. Just pull the valve cover off, loosen up the adjuster, pry the rocker off, clean it and color it with the sharpie, pop it back on, adust the lash then turn the motor over a couple revolutions by hand and move on to the next one. Maybe that's what you meant by "dismantle". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 24, 2007 Author Share Posted April 24, 2007 I'm to the point this week where even removing my spark plugs is a hassle after spending 2 days straight on my Z lol Ok i checked all 12 rocker arms this time. First off its difficult to check with a sharpie, because you can wipe a sharpie off a rocker arm with a rag. When there is oil all over the rocker arm, I try to "dab" the oil off and it takes the sharpie too. The majority of them were fine, a little close on the passenger side of the rocker arm, but were good. Some were not so good, I could not read a definitive line from the wear pattern. I need to adjust the valves to spec and see how the wear changes, I lost my damn feeler guage last night so time to grab a new one =) Thank you guys for you patience, I know nothing about cams and how they work, so this weekend was a fun learning experience, especially this thread! Schnieder wants $60 for the lash pads (omg expensive) so ill call Nissan for em =) brb OH yeh... so do I need new retainers if I go .150 or .160? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 These might help: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112184 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113441 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114802 For what its worth I've never had problems with the sharpie ink smearing. I cleaned the pad with brake cleaner to remove all the oil, then colored it all in, then let it dry for 30 seconds or so, and I was left with a sharp line where the rocker hit the cam, sharper than either of those threads using machinist's blue showed. Don't know the answer to your retainer question. I got the Schneider retainers with the valvesprings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 24, 2007 Author Share Posted April 24, 2007 Found this from BRAAP "If you need to set up a cam that needs thicker than .220, you can always just snip pieces of .010”, .020” and .030” feeler gauges/shim stock and just stuff those pieces between the lash pad and valve stem itself. Feeler gauges are pretty cheap, under $5 for set of Craftsman, or keep a sharp eye at garage sales." HMM.. rather than spending $60 for a set of 12 maybe I'll snip some .030" pieces to act as shims to check the pattern and then buy the proper set! har har Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Ryan, I'll just add a little about the wipe pattern. When I upgraded to my reground cam (which has about the same specs as yours), I spent a fair amount of time on this site making sure I had the right lash pads. It really paid off as my valves are nearly silent. In fact, since I adjusted them hot, I haven't needed to adjust them again (I did check once to be sure that they weren't getting tighter). That includes 2 full track days at PMI with frequent pulls to 7k and several thousand miles of spirited driving on the street. My point is take your time getting this part done right - it will "pay you back" with reliability and peace and quiet later. On the snow front, we've got over a foot since this morning. I thought we were done with snow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 25, 2007 Author Share Posted April 25, 2007 Daniel which lash pads did you end up gettin? I thought we were done with snow too.. but nooo it just keeps pounding us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 .180" lash pads. Keep in mind mine is a reground cam (.480 lift) so it's not likely to need the same as yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 I don't have the experience of a BRAAP or a TonyD and I definitely value their advice, but I don't consider myself a little person and I don't think you should either. ..... That's not giving either of us enough credit. Errr.. communication breakdown. I actually was trying to agree more with you, and say that to the uninitiated that turbo camshafts are even more mysterious than NA ones... I started talking about what I had been talking with my friend about... and then realized i had gone on at ridiculous length on something that wasn't *really* as on-topic as it could have been... I guess my re-write lost alot of my point. I hate being long-winded.. I guess I should have just posted the long version. The big reason I named ANY names was to thank the people who seemed obvious to point to and thank for the dissemination of the knowledge down to the rest of us.... NOT to say that any of us who may be smaller gremlins have to pretend we know nothing and trust it all to the people selling us parts. Quite the contrary, I was TRYING to say that using "Common sense" without the requisite knowledge to select the proper cam for your application is about the most dangerous thing you can do in designing an engine. Re reading my post, I really did do an abysmal job at saying what I was trying to say; my apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 25, 2007 Author Share Posted April 25, 2007 Ok.. Well I took pictures of the wipe pattern, I went out and purchased some of that blue machinest dye so i can check the wipe pattern (Jon was right, sharpies work better) After adjusted to .008 intake and .010 exhuast this is my wipe pattern. Lots of room on the spring side (drivers side) but it looks as if the camshaft lobe is going over the lifter side (passenger side). I went ahead and snipped a small piece of .030" metal since the stock lash pads are .118" this would bring it to .048" which schneider recommends .050". so close enough. This seemed to make it worse. (that small little metal chip thing is the "shim") What do I need to do to bring the wipe pattern closer to the lifter side (passenger side) ?? Reduce the stock lash pad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 i learned from zcar.com i made a boo boo. I didnt adjust the valves after adding the shim *ugh* anyway what can you guys tell me?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Yeah, the lash needs to be close in order to properly assess the pattern. I don't have all this stuff commited to memory, but I'm looking at this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113441 and BRAAP is saying that you can make the wipe pattern go further to the bottom by using a thinner lash pad. That seems to indicate to me that you need a thicker lash pad. I think you should clean the rockers, use the sharpie, and try your shim again. See if you can't cut the shim a little nicer, and give it another shot. Maybe try two, since that would be ~180. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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