Ledphoot Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 I've had probelms with head studs on SBC as well, but never on any Ford or Olds motors??. I finally just decided to buy quality head bolts for each build and take my chances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 I read through that thread, and I agree with most of it. Stopleak is not the answer. There has to be a better way. The only thing I can think of is that the surface treatment on the ARP studs is too smooth and polished, and maybe that prevents the sealer from adhering properly to the stud. I will remove them one at a time and replace them after sandblasting the threads and applying a high quality silicone sealer. I'll post my results later in the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbhsbZ Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 Well, I decided to pull one stud at a time, clean the threads and reinstall with a better sealer. I ended up wire wheeling the threads until all the black oxide coating was gone and they were shiney clean silver metal. Then I shot some brake cleaner in the hole, dried it with air, reinstalled the stud and torqued the nut. I did this with each external stud (not under the valve cover). I pulled about 7 of the studs under the valve cover, and they looked good. The Teflon sealer had coated the threads nicely and appears to have sealed. So I cleaned and resealed them and reinstalled. I let it sit about 24 hours and then refilled and pressurized the system. It held 20 psi for 2 hours, so I think its good. I'll keep an eye on it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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