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HybridZ

DIY - my little walkthrough of the rear disc conversion


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My conversion consisted of:

- 280zx (1982) 10.25" rotors (don't use the 84 300zx 11.4" rotors unless you have the modern-motorsports or custom adapter) ($45)

- Nissan 200sx calipers (similar to 240sx or 2nd generation Maxima calipers) (FREE)

- Modified Nissan Maxima rear adapters. (4 bolt design, but I cut off the corner and 4th bolt hole to allow easy access so I dont have to remove the stub axle) ($80)

 

- Total - ($125) =)

 

 

 

First Here is a picture of the Z's rear drum brakes on my 1978 280z. Pretty aint it?

 

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After tapping on the rear with a rubber mallet, the front drum cover pops right off and behold the glory if dirty drum brakes.

 

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Take a sawzaw or a 4" cut off disc and cut away on the rear backing plate for the drums. Major PIA, and you have to cut it in 2 diff places, or the plate will not come off. Yes, your sawzaw or cut off disc will not get to the bottom, so I tried to cut down the the bolt holes, and I used a BIG pair of pliars and wiggled it around for a while untill the metal became fatigued enough to break. (You dont have to do this if you remove the stub axle which is a major PIA)

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Yay it came off.. (2 hrs later SOB)

 

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This is my caliper choice. I got them from a friend for free, I later found out the are from a 200sx. (very very similar to the 240sx and 2nd generation Maxima calipers) I LOVE these because I was able to use the STOCK rubber lines! score!

 

NOW one important note which isnt found typically on write-ups. "L" normally means "drivers side" and "R" means passenger side. Well on a Z with a different geometry due to the bracket, you must SWITCH the sides around. I know annoying huh?! Trust me I found out the right way

 

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Now my e-brake arm was fixed on the cast caliper. The 240sx caliper allows some adjustment and is removable, but the arm will be VERY close to the rear sway bars, but won't rub. I am using 1" thick MSA sway bars as an upgrade it it's a little tighter fit.

 

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More pictures, and a peak at using the STOCK e-brake setup, and a handy dandy bolt to holt it together. Yes it works.

 

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Now remember.. bleeder nipple is at its highest point. This is so the air can be bled out of the system!!

 

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Pretty huh?!

 

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I bled the crap out of the system, i was unfortunate and got alot of the air in the system as alot of my threads can attest to. I am not using a different proportioning valve, but it has a very nice balance. I'm happy. But don't give up!

 

 

I should prob take pics of the wheels and the rear brakes since it looks so damn good. LoL. Anyway.. questions?!

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Guest TeamNissan

Glad you figured out your bleeding prob... Looks like you did what I did too. Paint the calipers all pretty then bang and chip the hell out of them putting them on. My 4x4 fronts look like red/black camo lol.

 

Good work man.

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I wished that you had done it 2 weeks ago so that I could have FORSEEN all the troubles. all in all. the brakes was smooth EH? your set up is almost or exactly the same. BUT i had to cut part of the braket because i couldnt take off the axle. So i just cut about 35% of the braket to slide it in and call it a day. NICE JOB!!!

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