The great 300zx debate

[WickedWild]

First off i know I'm comparing apples and oranges. And it boils down to being responsible or treating myself for the first time in a long time. But I'm changing jobs and loosing my company car, so I need a daily driver. I've been driving Corollas for the last 5 years and I'm getting a Z. The first one is an '86 300zx, NA, 5spd, t-tops, 103k, no rust in primer with paint. Real clean and well taken car of, $3000. This is the responsible thing to do, I'd have no problem painting it and making it look good.

 

And here is the second one...

I'm wanting to gauge interest on my car. It should be for sale within the next month and a half to two months. This car has been cared for in great detail since I have owned it (Purchased in October of 2006) with oil changes ever 2000-2500 miles, a hand wash atleast once a week and a wax about every other week.

 

1993 Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo $9500

128,xxx miles

Cherry Metallic Red

Black leather / suade interior

T-Top

5-speed Manual

 

Mods:

Engine and Exhaust

1. Test Pipes

2. Turbo XS RFL blow off valves

3. Stock exhaust with no mufflers *sounds good, can get a sound clip for anyone who wants it*

 

Drivetrain

1. 6-puck sprung clutch

2. Ebay short shifter (no grinds and shifts smooth) with new bushings

3. Greddy Counterweight shift knob

 

Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes

1. 300 Degree Chamber Plates

2. Brembo Rotors (front and rear)

3. Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs

4. Hawk Racing Pads (front and rear)

5. NSRacing Rims (18x8 front and 18x9 rear)

6. 245/30/18 front and 275/35/19 rear Summitomo tires

7. Stainless Steel Brake Lines

8. Front and Rear Strut Braces

 

Audio and Electronics

1. Kenwood CD AM/FM stereo

2. Infiniti Kappa 6" front speakers

3. Infiniti Kappa 4x6 rear speakers (3" subwoofer with tweeter)

4. Autometer Carbon Fiber boost gauge

5. HKS Turbo Timer

 

Fuel System/Ignition/Engine Management

1. New NGK Plugs (colder than stock)

2. New OEM Injectors

3. New OEM PTU

4. Ash-spec Tuned ECU

 

Induction

1. 15psi Boost Jet

2. JWT single-pop Charger

 

Car also has new Alternator with all belts replaced.

This car goes 106-107mph in the 1/4 mile and has barely pulled my friends EVO that goes 12.7@107mph

 

I'm looking for personal opinions, problem areas to look for on these two cars, if you've owned one and their characteristics. This way I have less of a battle on the moral side I know I will have to do bushings on either one and I'd still end up picking up a 5th car for a winter beater, but hey that's Indiana. What do you guys think?

[BRAAP]

I’ll give my $.02

 

The Z-32 is and absolute blast to drive, sexy styling, etc. Especially one that runs 12’s.

Though I sometimes refer to the Z-32 as being fragile, a more accurate statement would be that they require continual big dollar maintenance, whether that maintenance be routine or the unexpected unscheduled use of the tow truck.

In regards to the Z-32 you are looking at, it is obviously owned by a performance enthusiast and the list looks as though most if not all common issue’s (belts, injectors etc. These cars eat their injectors for breakfast, lunch and dinner), have already been tended to, but those common maintenance items will need attention at some point in the future again. Also, the Turbo cars with the added under hood heat, is hard on the aging under hood wiring, (that is THE reason I bought an N/A car over a TT), and bad connections are VERY common, (even on the N/A cars, just more so on the TT cars), causing everything from erratic intermittent drivability issues to down right engine shut down. There are near future plans to cure this particular N/A cars lack of torque…

 

I could go on and on about my first two Z-32’s and the rental cars I put WAY more miles on than the Z-32's due to the common maintenance issues. I’ll spare you that saga as it is already posted elsewhere …

 

 

As for the Z-31… It is a lot less expensive initially, not as fun in regards to performance after reading the bio of the Z-32, and it may need a bunch of money thrown at it to bring it up to “reliable, dependable” daily driver status, i.e. something that wont leave you stranded along the side the freeway.

 

[WickedWild]

I will pay close attention to the wiring on the Z32 when I go look at it and if I purchase it I'd look into venting the hood. With the Z31 I'd want to swap in a turbo engine in the winter, and run it NA this summer to work out the rest of the car. I still have my Jeep for back up if the car is down, and know that I will be working on the Z off and on. How bad is it to work on the Z32's engine bay?

[BRAAP]

Mostly, the Z-32 is fairly easy and intuitive to work on. I have upgraded my brakes, struts, bushings, some interior work, stereo upgrade etc, hard wired the V-1 radar locator, all with not much screaming or yelling. Everything went quite smoothly.

The only real problem I have with working on the Z-32 is that 3 square acre upper intake plenum that covers EVERYTHING in the engine bay and restricts access to everything under it, (that would be the entire engine!). Most things require removing the intake plenum to get at, like the valve cover gaskets for example if they are leaking, (they ALL leak after approx 1000,000 miles). Well, it is less effort and is actually easier and less expensive to remove the entire engine from the car than it is to remove the upper plenum with the engine in the car! Just to get to the valve cover gaskets!!! With the engine out of the car, then the plenum is not as much of a headache, but still a pain in the arse. Then while the engine is out, the rear main seal is right there, water pump, front main seal, EGR, misc water hoses, and any other gaskets/seals that are hard to get to, etc. etc. etc.. ($$ka-ching.$$. ka-ching…$$ )

 

 

[Sparks280zt]

That is pretty high for that z31. I picked my z31 up (picture in signature) from the original owner with right at 90k on it. Mine is a turbo and has the larger T3 over the t25 and has the CLSD. I paid $3500 for mine. I washed it up and detailed a month after buying it, and it placed in the showroom class at the North Carolina Fall Z car show. A z31 turbo has 205 hp and 220 ft lbs of torque stock. They are a few hundred pounds lighter than a z32, so I would say a z31 turbo would eat up a z32 NA in a straight line.

That being said, the real issues on z31s would be changing the timing belt, making sure the Nissan injector recall has been done, and the fuel gauge probably never will work, harhar. I drive mine daily and enjoy it. I get good fuel milage out of it and it comfy.

The z31 turbo motor is also very responsive to boost, so for the price they are asking for that z32, I would say you could have a more reliable, faster, cheaper z31 turbo. Check out z31performance.com to see some sick z31s.

 

Oh....my vote is for the z31.

[WickedWild]

I originally started looking for a 240sx with an SR20, or a Z31 Turbo. But I have not been able to find anything around here like that. I would not mind flying and driving back if I could find the right car and have someone check it out. But this is the best I can find so far.

[Guest TeamNissan]

I’ll give my $.02

 

The Z-32 is and absolute blast to drive, sexy styling, etc. Especially one that runs 12’s.

Though I sometimes refer to the Z-32 as being fragile, a more accurate statement would be that they require continual big dollar maintenance, whether that maintenance be routine or the unexpected unscheduled use of the tow truck.

In regards to the Z-32 you are looking at, it is obviously owned by a performance enthusiast and the list looks as though most if not all common issue’s (belts, injectors etc. These cars eat their injectors for breakfast, lunch and dinner), have already been tended to, but those common maintenance items will need attention at some point in the future again. Also, the Turbo cars with the added under hood heat, is hard on the aging under hood wiring, (that is THE reason I bought an N/A car over a TT), and bad connections are VERY common, (even on the N/A cars, just more so on the TT cars), causing everything from erratic intermittent drivability issues to down right engine shut down. There are near future plans to cure this particular N/A cars lack of torque…

 

I could go on and on about my first two Z-32’s and the rental cars I put WAY more miles on than the Z-32's due to the common maintenance issues. I’ll spare you that saga as it is already posted elsewhere …

 

 

As for the Z-31… It is a lot less expensive initially, not as fun in regards to performance after reading the bio of the Z-32, and it may need a bunch of money thrown at it to bring it up to “reliable, dependable†daily driver status, i.e. something that wont leave you stranded along the side the freeway.

 

 

I agree 150%, I have had 3 z32s and everything you said is spot on.

I would pick the option not listed and go with a manual n/a z32 for a daily driver. Even with the simpler n/a its like problem after problem, it will run perfect one day then idle erratic the next, run great after that then run on 5 cylinders the next. You really have to love a z32 to own it, esp as a daily driver.

[Sparks280zt]

I might consider a trade, im looking for a 4x4 truck.

[Pete84]

I haven't heard of Z32's being so spotty on reliability - is the wiring dry-out the biggist cause? And it is seriously easier to pull the engine than the upper intake manifold [not the runners, the plenum{?}]?

 

Wow, now I understand why the N/A's are going for so "little". You'll have another car for sure while you own one . . . and have AAA on your speed dial

Bummer.

 

Besides the timing belt and injectors, any other Z31 Achilles' heel? S130?

 

I'm kinda in the new to me market, 1K in the fund already.

 

Best of luck OP.

[Guest TeamNissan]

They arent unreliable as far as being able to drive it, I would say they are more finiky then anything, you always need to do something to it but that said they will also always keep driving. My tt I sold at 140k with everything major still origonal. My last n/a got stollen at 150k and my 1st z32 ever blew a rod at 180k. I think they are damn fine cars they just need alot of love. I wouldnt dare buy one thinking I was just going to be able to drive it months on end without ever having to deal with anything. As compared to my friends n/a z31 thats hes been driving for 2 years without having to do anything beyond oil, plugs etc....

 

 

 

I haven't heard of Z32's being so spotty on reliability - is the wiring dry-out the biggist cause? And it is seriously easier to pull the engine than the upper intake manifold [not the runners, the plenum{?}]?

 

Wow, now I understand why the N/A's are going for so "little". You'll have another car for sure while you own one . . . and have AAA on your speed dial

Bummer.

 

Besides the timing belt and injectors, any other Z31 Achilles' heel? S130?

 

I'm kinda in the new to me market, 1K in the fund already.

 

Best of luck OP.

[Guest TeamNissan]

Ow and taking the plenum off is really no big deal. WAY easier then taking the entire motor out lol, Idk who told you that.

[WickedWild]

I might consider a trade, im looking for a 4x4 truck.

Well I don't have a truck to trade, but would you think of selling it outright? Good lookin Z...

[Datsun350Z]

Have you driven any z32's?

 

It was my dream car when i was about 16-17.

I got a 1990 NA 5 speed in a trade for my turbo miata.

It wasn't in perfect condition, but it ran and drove fine.

It looked fairly good too.

 

My opinion:

Biggest letdown ever.

The car felt fat and sloppy.

The power was nothing special.

The engine is shoehorned in too tight. (I'd hate to work on a Turbo)

 

Take into consideration that it had about 160k miles on it, and was not a TT, so it's not a direct comparison. But test drive it first. I wish I had a day with the car instead of a quick test drive in the rain.

 

Doesn't almost $10k for a car with over 100k miles sound a lot high?

The car does look very clean, and sounds like the price i'd want if I was selling it, but you can buy a lot of car for about $10k.

[Sparks280zt]

Well I don't have a truck to trade, but would you think of selling it outright? Good lookin Z...

 

Just hit a deer actually, need to get a new front bumper on it.

[WickedWild]

Sparks sorry to hear about the deer. (sounds like the beginning of a country song:)

I went and looked at the '93 today, very disappointed. It should be priced under KBB... rusted on the pinch seams though the undercoating, HICAS leaking, he only replaced 1 injector, tuned real rich, but it was fast. He did not lie about the power or the parts on it, but I pointed out things to this kid he didn't even know about the car (no kidding). I'm hoping to see the 86 soon, and my brother supposedly can get me a Silvia import right hand drive for under 5K (doubt it). I'm still looking.

[Guest TeamNissan]

If your brother can do that put me on the list too ok?

[WickedWild]

If thats legit, I will let you all know...

[BRAAP]

Ow and taking the plenum off is really no big deal. WAY easier then taking the entire motor out lol, Idk who told you that.

 

The upper plenum is not a cake walk to remove, you’ll agree with that right? I started the process of removing the upper plenum myself and about an hour into it, promptly muttered a few colorful metaphors and decided it would just be easier to perform a V-8 conversion on the car and the gains would much greater. (no kidding!, the car IS getting a V-8 in the near future, undecided on whether it will be the VH45DE out of my totaled Q-45 or my super charged SBC 350 on the engine stand. We are NO stranger to V-8 conversions around here). Maybe I’m just so spoiled with the L-series. Even the “all original” late L-28 intake is sort of a pain to remove with the heat shields etc, but NOTHING like trying to remove the upper plenum of the VG30DE in the engine bay.

 

I should’ve been more clear in what I was trying to convey, sorry about that. My point was if valve cover gaskets, AND injectors, AND EGR, AND rear main seal, AND water hoses under the plenum, AND any of the other normal issues that are typical on these cars needs tending to, it is easier to just pull the engine and deal with all those issues at once than to spend more time and money just pulling the intake plenum, tranny, etc. My source for that info comes from a specialty Z-32 shop, (owner of that shop is a member here on Hybrid), that the Nissan dealer sends all their Z-32’s to, for scheduled and unscheduled maintenance. Their head tech can pull the engine in approx one hour, where as the intake plenum is a few hour project. Most of the time, the Z-32 they get in, typically need ALL of those issues dealt with, so it is generally more cost effective to just pull the engine and take care of everything at once.

 

I’m sure if I misstated anything, he will set the record straight.

[Guest Sleepy-z]

I own a z32 and a 75 280z. Lets just say I feel safer taking trips in the stock 280z then in the 300zx. I have had 3 injectors go bad, after 2 failed I replaced them all and another new one failed at 18k miles and at $150 each it adds up. Your better off finding a s30 stock and getting around in my experience. But between the two, get the z31 and save the money, you might as well say the z32 will cost you $5k over the next 5 years in maitainance. BTW I own a NA z32 which is the more reliable, not to put it down, its a blast to drive and its a strong motor its just the small things that add up over time.

[bigballinzx]

z32 maitence does add up esp if your not a fix it your self type but the styling and perofrmance are still top notch today, I see way too many z32's with over 200k to say they are unreliable, not doubting previous post where owners went through one problem after another.