piston Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 95 lt1 caprice, lt4 cam,springs 1.6 rr and bolt ons.. well, i got sick of my car vibrating and cannot figure out what the hell it is, it vibrates at times, then it doesnt at time, i dont think its the u joints because it doesnt vibrate at high speeds, maybe something simple like exhaust hitting diff or something. i dont get it but anyway, i took it out to the farmside and did a couple of runs. i notice alot of things... 1st gear jumps to red line within a blink, no use, it doesnt burn out either i dont think. maybe because the clutch is new. it just jumps to redline like its slipping or something... 2nds starts off at 4k rpm and redlines within second... 3rd grabs hard and pulls pretty decent and strong 4th just pulls like crazy and also churps a bit...(nice) 5th just pulls all the way down south, sounds like everythings about to break...up around from 75mph up i think.. it seems like if it was a quarter mile run, thins things going to be finishing in top 5th gear...but im guessing maybe only low 13s at the moment since its throwing a check engine light, wrong MAF..exhaust leaks like crazy, its runing filthy rich,(my new ac delcos are pitch black) havent even done the timing, and dont even know if the knock sensor is sensing the correct signal. ill be fixing these things as soon as i get tuner cat but for now, its alright for slap on and go run.. everything on the side of the road passes by so fast, im from point a and next thing i know, im already done and im like, what, im here already? its great having this thing run and having a good pull. its been a while since i got sucked into a seat and it feels great. i notice the car moves from left to right do to torqe steer everytime i shift and it grabs(really dangerouse on streets). im gonna need to cage this thing up and put on some strut bars and upgrade my suspension...right now im running stock suspension with eibach 1inch drop springs and it feels ok. overall, i think it ran fair... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted May 6, 2007 Share Posted May 6, 2007 congrats and happy to hear that she's running strong. about 1st gear and 2nd gear, check your clutch adjustment... i had this same problem, adjusted the clutch and the problem just vanished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 7, 2007 Author Share Posted May 7, 2007 im not sure what you mean by adjusting the clutch? is it even possible to adjust the t56 clutch? from how i see it, it just pretty much goes in one way and that pretty much all you can really do? can someone explain??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 your pedal hight adjustment can control the distance your clutch master piston is pushed in or released. If the piston cannot come all the way out, it could cause your clutch to slip. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 8, 2007 Author Share Posted May 8, 2007 ok, that makes sense. that might be the problem, i had to cut my rod on the tilton clutch master cylinder 3/8 shorter according to jtr but i didnt think it wasnt neccesary since it looks like its a little too short. that might just be the problem. ill look into that. i thought you meant there was another way to adjust the clutch itself...lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinE Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 You would think that if it were the clutch not getting full engagement it would be slipping even worse in the upper gears due to longer pulls. Hmmmm....are you letting the clutch completely out when going WOT in your first 2 gears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 12, 2007 Author Share Posted May 12, 2007 im letting the clutch all the way out but it just seems like it climbs straight to redline. could my timing have cause this? i took my dist. off and notice this thing was way off...maybe about by an 1/4 inch or so. stupid me, i replace my seals and noticed it. that for sure is also the reason why this thing is running filthy rich. the timing was way too advance...im trting to set it as straight as possible. gm screwed up when the build this thing, they didnt put a keyway(halfmoon) on the harmonic balancer hub when they created this, whats the reason behind that? older sbc have it, whats the reason behind the lt1 harmonic hub? that threw it off when i put it together in the beginning, not after learning new things everyday, it was so off. lost a 1/4 tank of gas on a 9 mile drive....by the way, how in the hell do i go about checking timing on this anyway? no marks to time it anywhere? and if its off, that means i would have to remove everything and turn the harmonic hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9t4ss Posted May 12, 2007 Share Posted May 12, 2007 Piston, You adjust timing with Tuner cat or lt1 edit and a laptop. The lt1 is not like the old sbc, all adjustments are made within the computer of the car. You will also be able to monitor everything in the engine with the laptop plugged into the obd 1 port. The optispark can be trublesome some times.You need to get the software and begin your tuning. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 13, 2007 Author Share Posted May 13, 2007 i got a bigger problem...my friggen harmonic hub bolt broke off into the crank and i cannt get the damn thing out, i then drilled it with the high speed steel and should of drilled it all out, instead used a easy out and the easy out broke into it. now i cannot drill out the easy out because it is heavy duty steel, same as the drill bit and it will not drill. damn, this thing piss me off. i had plan to drive it today after correcting the timming and replaces oilpan gasket and front seals. im thinking i might have to pull the motor for the 3rd time and put in a new crank or new bottom block. i drilled it for 6 hours straight and got nothing. the broken easy out will not budge, i tried drilling around it but it wont go through, i broke 4 drill bits already and worn out 3...my next and only option is towe the damn thing to a shop and pay them to do it. its stressful because i really dont have the right and powerful tools...i might sell the thing already, its my third option. even though if i drill out the broken bolt, i dont even think i am going to be able to retap the threads on the crank since its cast iron and it will chip the teeth of the tap and not work itself in...ughhh...i dont even know why it broke in the first place, the bolt pressed the hub in half way already, then it got tougher and it just broke and the bolt didnt even go all the way in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.