m1noel

After 15 years, my Walbro pump is starting to make some funny noises. I've read that Walbro was bought out and the new TI pumps may not be very good. Any recommendations for a replacement without going in tank? I'd like something quiet and reliable.

I've had two sets of the Tokico springs. They are great for awhile, but they have both sagged after a few years. And I was under the impression that they have discontinued them for the 280Z. Time to try something different.

I need new springs, my old (25+ year Tokicos are sagging in the rear. About all I can find to replace them are the Eibach progressive rates or the Vogtlands. Somebody please give me some pros and cons. The car is mostly street driven, LS2 powered, and a little heavier on the rear axle than the front. Thanks, Mike

If you happen to be coming by the Boise area, I have a left and right you can have.

I used a magnaflow rsonator ahead of 3" magnaflow muffler. Still plenty loud, but nice sounding.

And when they make them more beautiful.

I so remember the day I posted "It's alive". Such a great feeling, only bested by the first drive. As Keith said, the fan won't come on until it is hot. I never fired mine up until I had a full exhaust installed, so I can't help you with the throttle response. When you do get that first drive, you will smile so big your face will hurt.

All looks like a ton of fun to me.

Great job and congrats Keith. Been fun watching you build this beast.

Its all looking good Kieth. Keep it up and get back on the track.

pm sent

Welcome to the club Warlord. Its pretty lonely out here in Idaho. You are lucky to have Keith nearby to give you some pointers. You will also love the car when it is done, or at least on the road again-it seems they are really never done... You know, brakes, axles, wheels, tires, springs, sway bars, control arms, diffs.......... I also liked the under-counter parts you have available. Keep them handy.

This is a really old thread. But I can tell you that with the window louvers on, my hatch (if not locked down) will open at exactly 80 mph. That was before adding the spoiler. I have tested this with the hatch unlocked since adding the spoiler. No more opening and losing loose papers all over the interstate.

I used the JCI compressor and dryer with all the rest of the stock stuff. Worked great for 6 years until the stock expansion valve gave up the ghost. And they are no longer available through any sources I can find. Someone out there supplies a ford evaporator with a new style expansion valve that will bolt up, but I will have to remove the dash, and I haven't worked up the gumption to do that yet.

I don't think you can mount them that way because the lever would be on the outside?

The problem with the alternator was with the LS2 unit. Most have gone to the LS1 alternator witch fits better/no interference with the John's motor mount. I was able to make mine work, but most haven't.

Xtreme_240Z- are your cables pulling the caliper levers forward? Something just looks different to me?

what have we learned from this- People with hobby cars should have short, straight, flat driveways. If you keep adding power and trying to find traction, you will always find a new week link. Hobby cars that are driven (or raced) are never finished. A few seconds of fun at the race track requires many, many hours of preparation and usually many, many hours of repairs. Money maybe does buy happiness, or at least better parts.

I like what you did. and like you stated, I got a later set with multiple start threads, so I didn't need as long of throw. And since I still had the original cables in place it was easier to use them. I did move the attachment point on the caliper arm closer to the caliper to shorten the required movement of the cable. It holds in my driveway which is quite steep, so I'm happy.

it is right there in the picture.....The chrome wound up thingy in front of the strut housing.

I, too, hope it isn't anything too bad or spendy. Hope to hear soon.

Update, Picture added. I also drilled the supplied bolts for safety wire. Don't trust lock-tite alone.

I got the parking brake compatible brackets when I bought my brakes 2 years ago.

the calipers are $128 ea.

The good news- I have a parking brake! And I took pictures....but, can't post them because I took them with my camera instead of my phone, and Vicki took my one camera to computer cord with her to France. And I don't want to take the wheels back off right now. If I get a chance, I will take them off and take some phone pictures. I will tell you what I did. I removed the old brake cable mounts from the lower suspension. I bought 2 2" muffler clamps at $2.99 ea. and 2 compression springs at $3.98 for a package of 2. I welded the old mounts to the clamps at one end, lopped off the part where it used to bolt on to the suspension. and mounted the clamps to the strut housing so the mounts are just to the rear of the strut housing and with just enough clearance to the outside of the strut for the cable. I put a spring on each end of the existing parking brake cable between the mount and the clevis. I bolted a 1/2"X 1/8" aluminum bar about 2" long firmly to the clevis and used the old clevis pins at the arm of the caliper. I used the bar instead of a cable extension because it won't bend and will push the arm back. I then adjusted the cables from underneath the car above the drive shaft until the were free with the handle down and clamped tight when I pull on the handle. It does use the full travel of the handle but works. For $10 and half a welding rod I'm pretty happy. I will post pic's when I can. Oh and yes, I have Dave's control arms, mustache bar, and sway bar mounts, but without coil overs.