Guest Anonymous Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 finally made some progress!!! drives side floor pan is all welded in working on passenger side (not a good of fit) http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/chase240z/ tell me what you think! all mig welded with a lincoln 135 plus. my first time welding. heh yipee! zeddfindings.com floorpan kit. then i bought some 16ga sheet. cut it out to fit. and welded it in with a mig. total time for drives side. 32 hrs. passangers side doesnt fit as well and will require more fabbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Looks like your doing a great job. I know what a PIA it is when the rust extends beyond the new pan. That pan to firewall transition has some compound curves that make it difficult. The Zedd Findings pan does not fit well against the transmission tunnel on the passenger side, or at least that is where mine was difficult. I did an overlap joint there and used sheet metal screws to draw everything tight before I began welding. It required a bunch of trial fitting and hammering before it would follow the contour of the tunnel. Keep up the good work and good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 overlap joint? elaborate it sounds perfect! any guidance would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opie Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Hey guys, can you tell me how much area does the Zedfindings pan cover? I've got a rusty 71 that needs the same treatment shown in Havok's site. It's rusty 2 inches up the firewall and all the way to the rear upturn behind the seat. Please let me know. Thanks, Doug(opie). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted June 18, 2002 Share Posted June 18, 2002 Havok, I made my cut along the transmission tunnel about an inch too long so that when I droped the pan in there would be an overlap between the two pieces. Take a look at the pics below and hopefully this will help. This type of joint allows for moisture to be traped so you will need to seam seal them well. Hope this helps. 1stGenZ, You can see where the pan stops in relation to the firewall. Havok has good pics on what he did to fill this in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest V8wannabe Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Keep the overlap fairly small, 1/4 to 1/2 inch, the more of a pocket you create the greater the chance of water getting trapped and rust forming. Seal it on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 i posted some more pics @ http://photos.yahoo.com/chase240z take special note of image016 how the hell am i gunna get that too fit? that joint thing?? i dunno. on the drivers side, i got some manila paper and traced the missing area with a marker then with the template i cut it out of metal. then tacked and hammered my way through until it fit. but with the passanger side there is so much curviture dunno if it will fit correctly. should i just do the same routine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I cannot find your 016 image but it appears you are doing a good job. If you have got that far, do some more experimenting with the manilla paper. You may have to fabricate a seperate piece with the correct curvature(s) and then weld it in to the existing pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 i fixed it, try now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I did the overlap thing as well. By the look of your pics you can do it. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Just looked at pic16. Right idea, though think of water run off. If you can, take every opportunity to make the top gap on the inside of the car, and the bottom gap outside the car. It will keep any water from having a gutter to sit in. My 2 cents. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Good suggestions on the joint overlap. If I am seeeing correctly on #16 Just cut out some sheetmetal filler and weld patch it in place and overlap. It will all get covered up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 I did the overlap - on my first side. Then I decided to bite the bullet and do a but weld for the second side of the car. REAL pain in the but cutting it to JUST the right size, then welding it because I was blowing through the 22 gage OE sheetmetal every 4 or 6 inches! I actually went back and cut off the overlap on the first side. I didn't want that trapped area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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