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which cam??


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ok so faQ dont give me any results every time i try it. but i have been searching thru old threads so dont nobody yell at me. so i've come to the realization that the n47 is notorious fer cracking, so im pretty sure that will be the case on mine. now fer what i want to kno. i thought i saw somewhere that the n42 block had flattop pistons. true or false? also i measured my intake ports on the E88 and there 34MM, I read that they were 30MM stock and that 33 to 35MM was a good street bore, is this accurate? also assuming that both my cams are stock which would be better the E88 cam or the N47 cam? i have a 64MM TB on the car. How the f@#k could i need that on a n/a motor?

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Well, if you searched on the forums then you already know that the E88 cam should be a 260Z cam which should be stamped "C" on one end. Given this knowledge you should also know from searching that the "C" cam is the best of the stock grind cams for street performance. As for the accuracy of your port measurements, I have no idea. A good street "bore" I suppose differs greatly from person to person as everyone seems to have an opinion. And where did you get a 64mm throttle body? I know of the 60mm KA and the 90mm BMW/Mustang throttle bodies, but I've never heard of a 64mm.

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I just figured that FAQ thing out the other day helping someone else. If you hit the FAQ link in the blue bar at the top of the screen it will ask you to search and you won't get any results unless you happen to type a word that exactly fits the title of one of the FAQ threads. If you hit "HybridZ" in the title bar to get back to the main forum page, and then hit the FAQ forum, which is the first one right above V8 Z Forums, that will get you into the FAQ area and you can view all of the FAQ posts without having to search.

 

That "C" cam has a gnat's ass more duration than the other cams one one lobe (I think it's exhaust) with a gnat's ass less lift. If there is any difference at all I doubt it would be significant enough to be measured on a dyno. A gnat's ass bigger than tiny is still tiny.

 

The problem with going to a really decent sized cam is that the stock FI sucks and it can't handle anything outside of it's narrow fuel map and vacuum parameters. So put in a decent sized cam and it will run like crap. Plus there are other pitfalls to running a larger cam like when you get lift over about .470 (still pretty small) valve springs coil bind and hit valve stem seals, etc. There are work arounds for those issues too, and if you search "valve stem seals" in the L6 area you should come up with speeder's post which is excellent and tells you all you need to do.

 

I'd suggest you look at replacing the FI with a newer, standalone EFI if you want to stay NA, or replace the FI with carbs like roundtop SU's or triple sidedrafts. If you want to stay NA and want to make power, you gotta get a bigger cam in there, which means you have to deal with both of these issues.

 

I'm not aware of the N47 head having a tendency to crack, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I haven't run that head so I haven't looked into it that closely, but I think if it had a well known tendency to crack I'd probably have heard it along the way somewhere.

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I went ahead and stickied speeder's post in the L6 forum, also one of BRAAP's posts on headwork. You'll be into both of those areas to get max power from the L6, and I've referred to them both enough times that I thought they deserved the sticky...

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