Head First I go! Megasquirt here I come!

[ZR8ED]

Holy crap! I just jumped in head first...well I did dip my toe a bit first.

 

I just orderd a MSII from DIYautotune.com

 

Ok some of you have persuaded me, some with messages, PM's, emails etc I have read of the success you have ALL had. Some growing pains yes, but all of you guys seemed to have come through it for the better.

 

Now I've been doing lots of reading, but I'm sure I'm going to have some Q's since I'm not too sure how similar the install info for the L28ET will be for my VG30ET. This has me most nervous.

 

Anyone finished a VG30ET install?

 

I'll take all the help I can get. I ordered a very complete kit, I'm through bull***tting around here.

 

I just need to sort out some wiring, and hope I don't need any wierd resistors or anything. I have an AEM wideband already installed, so that part is done. I plan on using the stock cyl head temp sensor too. Not sure How much more I will need.

 

I plan on driving the car, and not starting the install until I know every connection I need to make and where. I do not want much down time. Summer will be over before it starts if I screw this up for any length of time. At least it is not a daily driver.

 

Man! I'm pumped! I'm not going to be able to sleep till the kit arrives!

 

Scott.

[cygnusx1]

It really was 90% fear of the unknown. Once it's done you kick yourself and say, "that was easy". The only gray area may be getting a timing signal out of your ignition system. Matt Cramer at DIY will help you figure that out if you even need to go that far for help.

 

Take time to make wiring diagrams. I did separate ones for power wires and ground wires. The diagram for the signal wires is already done for you by MS-II. Did you get the relay board and the stim?

[hoohaa]

Just wanted to drop in and say "hey". Looks like we're in the same boat. I just placed my order for the MSII on Sunday, and it's going in my VG30ET. If you don't mind, I would love to hear all about your progress, and I'll definitely share mine.

 

What are you planning to do for injectors? Turbo? What's your HP goal? EDIS or stock dizzy?

 

I'm planning to run Ford CFI 450cc injectors on an early Z31 top feed rail, and probably a T3/T4 with a decent sized Chinese eBay intercooler. I'm planning to take a while to do a really meticulous job on the wiring harness and clean up the engine bay at the same time.

 

BlozUp has published some info on MSI in a VG30 on www.blozup.com, but our setups will be significantly different since we're going MSII (I assume).

[BLOZ UP]

Speak of the devil....

 

Yes, I have done a MSnS (v2.2 board) on my old Z31 (VG30ET), with a bigger turbo and such. Now, I'm doing a MSII (v3.0) install on my VG30ET 240Z. I have the MSII assembled and ready to drop in, but I am still making mounts for the engine, and it will be a while before I can start the thing.

 

The MSnS guide is pretty more complete, but it is not really going to be updated anymore. The MSII guide I have just started, but I already have the Z31 (err... VG) CAS working with MS, and know where I am going to route all the wires. In the guide, I have the beginnings of a wiring diagram made specifically for my 240Z, but it shows how to hook up the Z31 CAS. And you do need a weird resistor

 

Well, anyway, check the site out if you have some time: http://www.blozup.com/ms.php

 

 

If you have any questions, I have service manuals for the Z31, and can probably help out with any wiring woes.

[BLOZ UP]

Oh, about the CHTS idea... that actual sounds like a decent idea. As much as I hate that sensor... or rather, its location, it does have a more accurate representation of the engine's temperature.

 

I might try it.

 

PS - If you are using the GM sensors, get the MSD ones--they include the weatherpack connectors and everything: MSD-2320 MSD-2310

[ZR8ED]

hoohaa Nice to meet you.

 

I have a 1989 Jspec vg30et. I have 370cc injectors, a t3/t4 hybrid turbo with a 3inch SS exhaust, and a large bar and plate i/c with 2.5 inch piping.

 

I have a Jacobs Electronics ignition system, and I will continue to use the stock distributor. Oh I already have an AEM wideband O2 installed.

 

Anything on the motor that I didn't need is gone, no air, no p/s, no extra electronics.

 

I put down 300 rwhp and 350ft/lbs last year, but my driveability has been a sacrifice. I can't seem to have it both ways. Until now that is.

 

Now to figure out how to get started.

 

I have the Megatune already installed on my laptop. I'm wondering if I should start filling in the values that I can.

 

I have a FSM that will help with lots of info on the stock stuff.

 

I am looking at what I can do to get any values started while I wait for the kit to arrive.

I have to "do something!"

 

Cheers,

Scott.

[BLOZ UP]

Now to figure out how to get started.

 

I have the Megatune already installed on my laptop. I'm wondering if I should start filling in the values that I can.

 

I am looking at what I can do to get any values started while I wait for the kit to arrive.

I have to "do something!"

 

Yeah, there's a few things you can fill in. I'm doing the same thing, messing with Megatune and my MS box on the stimulator, just to do something.

 

Of course, you need 6 injectors and cylinders, I like 2 squirts per cycle (alternating). Ummm.. erk, let me log onto my MS laptop to get some screen shots... before I recall something incorrectly...

[BLOZ UP]

Here are some values to maybe get it to start. You will want to turn off any kind of MAT, CLT, etc correction first--just getting it to start off the VE table alone. You can turn them on later and modify the VE table slowly back down (or possibly up) as you compensate with afterstart, MAT, etc, corrections.

 

The ignition settings may be a little off. The ignition map is a very, very safe one. Also, the engine HAD to idle at 20btdc, IIRC. Oh, the req. fuel is for 270cc injectors, not yours. You will have to change that. It will be lower.

 

Also, this is important: Notice that my VE table and Timing table axis each go to 300kPa, and only 6000 rpm. You will probably need to reset these to whatever you plan on using. My friend mentioned something about megatune interpolating the values when you change the axis, but I could be wrong, so watch out!

[ZR8ED]

Thanks for the screen shots, though they look different than my megatune screens???

 

I suppose it is just an older version.

 

When the kit shows up, I'm sure it will have more detailed instructions ie what to do first second third etc.

 

I ordered my ecu pre assembled, so there is nothing but to hook up wires to the car, a "weird" resistor or two, a couple of new sensors. I have the stimulator, wires, connectors, everything I need. I did not want to be ordering back and forth as I realize I need something.

 

I think while I wait for the kit to arrive, I will find what stats i can find for my stock CHTS, AEM wideband, tps, my injectors (Ford Merkur xr4ti 370 cc injectors.) Not sure what else at this point.

 

Man there is a lot of info to be input into the megatune! I was flipping through each of the menus to look at what needs to be input. Its a bit intimidating.

 

Scott.

[BLOZ UP]

Thanks for the screen shots, though they look different than my megatune screens???

 

I suppose it is just an older version.

 

When the kit shows up, I'm sure it will have more detailed instructions ie what to do first second third etc.

Have you set your "code_variant" to MS II, in the megatune configurator?

 

Also, even though it has improved a lot, megatune still has a kind of awkwardness. I remember in some old versions, some settings would not affect anything, some wouldn't stay set. Most of that is gone, however they still are not consistent in putting one kind of percentage in some settings.

 

Example:

MAT correction is +/- whatever percent you put in there (you can use the graph to tell), so if you put -10% percent, it would decrease the required fuel by ten percent. 0% is neutral.

 

However, the Warmup Wizard uses 100% as the base, and anything less than that takes away, more than adds to. putting 90% here would take away the same ten percent.

 

Now just look a little to the right in the Warmup Wizard dialog, and you can see the afterstart enrichment settings... which are based on 0% being neutral. Ugh!

/Example

 

My point is sometimes it is a little annoying, but you get used to it pretty quickly. Ok, well I sounded kind of angsty here, but my point was to really try and tell you that although MT and the MS setup is somewhat ... umm ... "obviously not of manufactured descent", it is well worth it in the end, and it is still loads of fun to tune with.

 

I ordered my ecu pre assembled, so there is nothing but to hook up wires to the car, a "weird" resistor or two, a couple of new sensors. I have the stimulator, wires, connectors, everything I need. I did not want to be ordering back and forth as I realize I need something.

 

Cool, that's the way to do it.

 

I think while I wait for the kit to arrive, I will find what stats i can find for my stock CHTS, AEM wideband, tps, my injectors (Ford Merkur xr4ti 370 cc injectors.) Not sure what else at this point.

 

Man there is a lot of info to be input into the megatune! I was flipping through each of the menus to look at what needs to be input. Its a bit intimidating.

 

A few of those pages you won't need to use.

 

I think you can get some values for the CHTS in the FSM. The AEM wideband... does it have an extra output from the controller? I'm sure someone else has used it with MS before. The TPS is really easy to hook up, and then it requires just a little setup to work correctly. Also the injectors, all you have to do is change the Required Fuel setting, and pretty much everything gets scaled correctly.

[hoohaa]

I checked my 94 pathfinder FSM for the CHTS values, but I could not find any mention of them. The engine electrical diagram shows a CHTS but it is not mentioned anywhere else. Sorry about that, maybe the 94 pathy VG30E doesn't use the CHTS.

[hoohaa]

Here are some values to maybe get it to start. You will want to turn off any kind of MAT, CLT, etc correction first--just getting it to start off the VE table alone. You can turn them on later and modify the VE table slowly back down (or possibly up) as you compensate with afterstart, MAT, etc, corrections.

 

The ignition settings may be a little off. The ignition map is a very, very safe one. Also, the engine HAD to idle at 20btdc, IIRC. Oh, the req. fuel is for 270cc injectors, not yours. You will have to change that. It will be lower.

 

Also, this is important: Notice that my VE table and Timing table axis each go to 300kPa, and only 6000 rpm. You will probably need to reset these to whatever you plan on using. My friend mentioned something about megatune interpolating the values when you change the axis, but I could be wrong, so watch out!

 

Very nice! Thanks for posting those screenshots up! Are you really going with 270cc injectors?

[proxlamus©]

you are going to hump your car when you get MS running and installed.

 

awsome man! keep us updated!

[BLOZ UP]

I checked my 94 pathfinder FSM for the CHTS values, but I could not find any mention of them. The engine electrical diagram shows a CHTS but it is not mentioned anywhere else. Sorry about that, maybe the 94 pathy VG30E doesn't use the CHTS.

 

I doubt it. Get your car cooled down and take a reading with an ohm meter. Warm it up and do the same. You can guess some values (70, 200), or if you have a heat reader infrared thing you can get a more accurate reading. Might as well use the CLT instead though, if you can't figure it out.

[BLOZ UP]

Very nice! Thanks for posting those screenshots up! Are you really going with 270cc injectors?

 

Just to get the thing running, yes.

[ZR8ED]

I started looking at my vg30et FSM and my wiring/ecu setup, and I gleamed a lot of useful info. At least for the wiring swap.

 

This will be a bit long but here goes.

 

CHTS Calibration.

-10degrees celcius 14 degrees F = 7.0 - 11.4 kilo ohms

+50 degrees celcius 122 degrees F = .68 - 1.0 kilo ohms

+100 degrees celcius 212 degrees F = .18 - .20 kilo ohms (ya know the omega symbol?) can't seem to be able to type it.

 

Wires black = ground

yellow/green = pin#23 on ecu

 

 

Injectors (on vg30et only)

wire 1...............................wire 2

#1 green pin # 101 ...............Red

#2 green/black #102 ...............Red

#3 green/blue #103 ................Red

#4 Green/Yellow #105 ................ Red

#5 Green/Red #105 ............... Red

#6 Green/white #106 ..............Red

Red wire goes to fuseable link, then to efi relay (ign power 12volt)

 

 

Transistor for coil

Blue = pin #3 on ecu

green/black = pin #5

Black = ground

 

TPS

Blue/green = pin #25

Pink/Blue = #18

 

EGR solenoid

Blue/white = pin #4 EGR sensor resistance 2.6 - 3.1 ohms

Black/white = ground

 

CAS

Black/white =pin #35 (common ground)

Green/black =#17

Black = #36 (common ground)

Gray = #8

 

Misc info

 

Resistor for tach is 2.2kilo ohms

180.62 cu/inches of displacement

2960 cc's

Firing order 123456

 

 

Well it is a start.

 

I'll share wiring info on this setup once I get into it. I may keep some things like the egr (for emissions checks...if I get pulled over) May keep the cold idle up soleniod..depends if I can get the car to idle cold or not. It is a snap to wire up. It just uses 12volts from ignition source...

 

Still lots to prepare before the megasquirt arrives.

 

Scott.

[ZR8ED]

Well a package arrived in the mail today! Holy crap! Taxes and Tarrifs suck!

 

Note to Canadians purchasing a kit. Expect a full 14% (federal/provincial) taxes on your order.

 

Well forget about the bad, on with the good! I can't wait to get home and open it all up and have a look at what I'm up against.

 

Scott.

[naviathan]

Well a package arrived in the mail today! Holy crap! Taxes and Tarrifs suck!

 

Note to Canadians purchasing a kit. Expect a full 14% (federal/provincial) taxes on your order.

 

Well forget about the bad, on with the good! I can't wait to get home and open it all up and have a look at what I'm up against.

 

Scott.

Should have ordered from me, I'd have listed it as a gift and only listed the value and $70 to keep the taxes down. Not to mention I also sell my assembled units for $380.

[ZR8ED]

Well it was xmas last night!

 

I carfully opened the box and each individual package and layed them out on my work bench.

 

The bundle of wire that came with the kit has lots of coloured wires each with its label for where it goes printed all along it. WELL worth more than any money that I could have saved by buying wire elsewhere.

 

The wiring does not look too intimidating to me now that I can see it all before my eyes. Now I need to start planning wire routing, placement of the unit, and how to make it all look pretty..ok at least neater than my current wiring that I have spent a good deal of time trying to clean up a stock 300zxt wiring harness into my 280z.

 

I'm thinking of mounting the ecu and relay board under the drivers seat, and mount the whole thing to a nice 1/8 piece of aluminum and use that to secure it to the car, and secure the wiring harness to it, so any tug on the wireharness is not felt by the relayboard/ecu That just sounds like the right thing to do. Not sure whether to mount the aluminum plate to the car with rubber isolators to reduce vibrational damage, and If I do that, if I will need a good ground from the aluminum mounting plate to the car.

 

Found a few items that i did not fully consider.

I now have to remove my MAF. I had my air filter mounted directly to it, and a shortpiece of flex pipe mounting to the turbo inlet I'm going to have to redesign that part of the intake piping and will now let me reroute the pipe under my motor mount. I was using the stock "S" shaped stocko intake pipe that came from the 300zxt. It was used to go around and over the motor mount, but now I have room underneath with my custom motor mounts. That could remove a significant amount of restriction, especially the stock pipe was mangled quite a bit when customized to fit the larger turbo!

 

Item two. I now have to install a bung for the IAT into my beautifully powdercoated i/c pipe. I may have to have it pro installed to minimize damage to the powdercoating. I may install it on the underside of the pipe so I can hide the obvious imperfection that will occur.

 

I have some work cut out for me. I suppose this thread will now be my Megasquirt log book.

 

Scott.

[cygnusx1]

Is there an echo in here? J/K You sound exactly like I did when i got my MS-II a few months ago. You are already thinking ahead....and that always works out well. I mounted a grouding rail under the seat, attached to the seat supports and rans a heavy cable right from the battery negative. Then I just brought all my grounds back to that rail. Can't get a much better ground than that as long as you also tie the battery well to the block and the chassis.