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Please help!!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Just got through putting my car back on the ground, and im dissapointed on how much the camber is off. I dont know if its the suspension technique springs, or what. Do the bump steer spacers from msa work??

thanks,

franklin

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Bump steer spacers will increase *positive* camber unless the car is lowered a LOT. My car's owered ~1", and I took out the bump spacers I had for this reason. What kind of camber are you looking for, and what do you have?

 

Like John said, if you haven't moved the car, it'll look like it's on stilts, with the wheels all relatively positive cambered. Springs and struts only affect camber inasmuch as they affect ride height. Gas-charged struts *will* raise a car up, BTW.

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Guest Anonymous

the upper part of the wheels sit closer together like: /. Ive got suspension technique springs, and some tokico 5-way adj. Its about an inch drop.. We really didnt move the car around just backed it out of the garage and moved it back in.

thanks,

franklin

p.s. we also messed around with the steering rack, could the tie rods be pulling/pushing on the wheel to offset the camber??

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Dat's what I've got, ST springs and Illumina struts. My springs are older, though, I've heard the newer ST springs are softer (mine are 160F, 200R). Anyway you're lowered about the same as me. My problem was I wanted MORE negative camber (/ ). Sounds like you want less. Bump steer spacers at the front will reduce the negative camber on that end of the car (make it more like this: | |). At the rear you *could* use offset Al/delrin control arm bushings, or you could slot the shock towers and move the tops of the struts outboard. Or you could start autocrossing and/or doing track days and enjoy the negative camber you've got! With about 1.5 deg negative in back and 2.25 deg negative in front, I get VERY even wear across my street tires, which see some track usage and ~5000 street miles/year.

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Guest Anonymous

I would like to keep the camber but where im at there really arent any places to go auto-x'ing, so im just going for the good ol' 1/4 mile.

Anywho so the msa spacers really work??

And where can i find these offset Al/delrin control arm bushings??

thanks Dan,

franklin

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Guest Anonymous

As long as it gets the job done im interested! Ive already made the decision that its not going to be my daily driven caddy. This thing is just my saturday night special, where can I get these bushings??

thanks,

franklin

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Motorsport Auto has 'em. 800 633 6331. I've got a set in my car, and don't have any problems with them. O' course my ride was already harsh! You can also use them to adjust toe, but when you do you also affect the tire's fore-aft location in the wheel well. I used anti-sieze as a lubricant for them, and wrapped the aluminum with a layer of sanding screen to prevent them walking around on me.

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Well the other issue with those aluminum bushings is...Well, they are aluminum and tend to move around ALOT! They also wear out quickly. I really don't recomend them. Not pushing my rear arms here, but slot the towers, buy some camber plates (I have a set of carreras I'll sell you cheap...) or do something else.. DON'T buy those bushings.. Mike Gibson and others will back me on this...

 

Mike Kelly b_hand.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I have ST springs on the front of mine and it does the same thing /, I think they're pretty damned soft, I know my iron headed Chevy is a lug, but damn, I had to put in the cheap spring spacer just to get them a little better. One of these days I'll find a OEM spring from another car that'll do the job (Can't really afford 400 bones for a C/O kit and don't need the clearance for my car's usage), maybe I'm nutz (well definitely I'm nutz) but I'd like the wheels in the front to ride like this | even if I have to say screw it and put on rally lights on the front and just say its a rally car. :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: Kids don't try the spring spacers at home, its a sucky solution and makes the coil bind and ride like a fork lift over bumps. :rolleyes:

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The Al/delrin bushings haven't moved at the rear of my Z, after ~5000 miles of street usage and three two-day track events at Lime Rock, Summit Point, and Mosport. Again, I used sanding screen to hold them in place. Don't know about wear yet, but I've got high hopes for the never-sieze as lubricant solution. The shock towers can be slotted without using plates, that's what I did back in '94 and I've had no problems despite very hard usage. This costs zero, but then you have butchered your shock towers, ugly. Having the tires look like this: | | is probably OK for 1/4-mile usage, but for the street I'd want at around 1 degree negative camber, if you want any corner-carving capability at all. My more extreme (still mild for serious track usage, though) camber has provided me with even wear at all four corners, under street/track usage.

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Guest Anonymous

So when yall refer to "slotting" the tower, you guys mean just that, slot the 3 screw holes on the top to make adjustments?? Will this also work for the front or am I doomed to just keep it as is??

thanks,

franklin

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Guest Anonymous

Speedrazor> yes you can slot those 3 bolt holes on the front towers about a 1/4 inch either way for a regular suspension (without coilover suspension) Slot them in the direction of the other tower not from the direction of the radiator to the firewall

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Guest Anonymous

Just a reference point: '77 280Z, all new PU bushings, lowered 1" with Eibach progressives and the front strut spacer. After 20,000 street miles and a couple of autocrosses, all four of the tires have EXACTLY the same wear across the ENTIRE tread (currently 7/32 left). It ain't the lowering that causes excessive camber and uneven tire wear.

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