Guest Mr. Big Business Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Subject says it all. What torque should I use on the front bearing castle nut? When I took it apart, I spent 15 minutes tearing apart my garage looking for the right socket before realizing that both sides were just finger tight. I have them back on there just as tight, or at least as tight as I could get them with my greasy hands. It seems like not enough torque to even measure with a torque wrench. Thanks, Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest greimann Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Yep, finger tight. Tapered bearings just need to be snug with no play, but not torqued. If you have freshly repacked the bearings with grease, spin the hub around as you tighten it so you eliminate any excess grease before you lock it down. Once finger tight, align the cotter pin hole to the nearest castleation, so the pin will go in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 According to the factory service manual, about 20 lb/ft of torque, AND THEN loosen the nut by 60 degrees (which is the next point or flat spot on the 6 point nut). A slight amount of preload is recommended, but not much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 The factory method as mentioned by Terry seems to result in a too loose bearing to me. They should know, but I torque it up as the factory says, rotate the hub both ways, back the nut off one flat and then take the nut up a bit more finger tight. Given that the bearings are tapered rollers, they should not IMHO be loose at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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